Replies

1. 
   wallyo | May 01, 2009 08:38pm | #1

   I have like the lenox and the blue mol. I have also used ace hardware's house brand it take a standard screw in mandrel that fits on all the brands above.

   I have several sets of harbor freight kits for large holes up to 5" I think, they are cheap when on sale and I consider them a one job deal, though I get more then my moneys worth out of them they take a pass through mandrel. Which has the habit of unscrewing while in use but on sale they are just 2.99 per kit.

   http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36222

   They have others you may want to look at I have only used the above set.

   http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?catPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FUserSearch%253Dhole%2Bsaws&currentPage=2&lastPage=2&isNext=false&isPrevious=false&category=&attributeValue=&attributeName=&requestedPage=1&resultsPerPage=10&resultsPerPageBottom=0

   But If you want something that will last a awhile any of the first three brands I mentioned will work well.
   well.

2. 
   frenchy | May 01, 2009 11:07pm | #2

   I fell in love with the Lennox brand with a single tooth.. every other hole saw I've got requires me to pry the plug out of a hot hole saw.. sometimes I spend almost as much time getting the plug out as I did drilling the hole..

     The single tooth version the plug just drops out..

3. 
   oldbeachbum | May 02, 2009 02:09am | #3

   I 've had a nice set of Irwins for quite awhile now.  8 or 9 sizes, a couple mandrels + case.  Always works well, quality seems good at a reasonable price.  I've used it for everything from light metal, plastic, woods, Hardi.....no problems for me, anyway.

    

    

    

   ...The unspoken word is capital. We can invest it or we can squander it.  -Mark Twain...Be kind to your children....they will choose your nursing home....aim low boys, they're ridin' shetland ponies !!

4. 
   BoJangles | May 02, 2009 02:49am | #4

   I have sets of Milwaukee and Lennox.  In my opinion, the Lennox saws cut much better and last much longer.  The saws and arbors are interchangeable.

1. 
   wallyo | May 02, 2009 03:02am | #5

   lennox does make a damn good reciprocating blade. Have not found a better one. The lenox hole saws I have were my dad's and they work well still.Wallyo

5. 
   IMERC | May 02, 2009 06:12am | #6

   Lenox...

   top shelf saws...

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!

   
   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

    

   "Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"

6. 
   mike_guertin | May 02, 2009 01:55pm | #7

   In my shop I have nearly every brand and type of hole saw known to humankind - carbon steel, bimetal, carbide tipped (multi and few toothed), diamond and carbide grit rimmed . Plus I have a few sets of self-feeding hole drills (typically used by electricians, plumbers and other hole hogging trades).

   I'm determined to figure out if there are in fact appreciable differences between different brands with regard to cut speed, usability after cutting through errant nails, plug popping and whatever else seems worthy noting. Any suggestions?

   I'll also sort out the mandrel / arbor issues with the two pin threaded, two pin snap collared, and quick release versions.

   FHB has a plan to publish the review soon but if you'd like I can give you prelim results directly in 2 to 3 weeks. Just email me with a request and I'll send my notes directly to you - [email protected]

   Mike

1. 
   JTC1 | May 02, 2009 05:38pm | #8

   I like Lenox.

   Electrical supply house in town carried them first, now Lowes also has them.

   I have some Starrett and Milwaukee but mostly Lenox.  Milwaukee threaded arbor with the 2 pin thingy which snaps in place works fine with all.

   Plug removal can be a pain sometimes if you mess up.

   My formula for easy plug removal: 1) clear dust from the cut several times during boring by backing the hole saw clear of the work. and 2) remove the plug immediately from the saw when the cut is finished.

   My theory revolves around 1) the saw dust jams the plug inside of the saw and 2) the saw heats and expands a little during cutting - then contracts around the plug - locking it in place.

   Easiest plug removal is to bore until the pilot emerges from the other side of the stock, then finish from the other side - this leaves the plug sticking out of the holesaw - comes right out.  Of course limited access to one side of the stock does not allow this technique many times.

   Lenox will eat a stray nail without a problem.

   Lenox will bore a full 1-1/2" thick - required.

   I have only bought one Rigid hole saw ever - ~2-1/2", bored through one 2x, it took forever to remove the plug as it seemed like the paint on the saw had melted and glued the plug inside. Finally got it out by virtue of the extra large pry holes in the sides of the saw - by the time I got the plug out, I had decided to never buy another Rigid!

   I always use 1/2" corded drill with hole saws.

   Jim 

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

   Edited 5/2/2009 10:39 am ET by JTC1

1. 
   reinvent | May 02, 2009 07:25pm | #11

   Lenox makes a plug ejecting arbor BTW.http://www.tools-plus.com/lenox-7l.html

1. 
   JTC1 | May 03, 2009 04:49am | #13

   Thanks, I did not know about that tool.

   I see one drawback - the arbor would have to be longer by at least 1-1/2" - seems like most of the time when I use a holesaw, space is already at a premium and the additional length would change the tool assembly from a "go" to a "no-go" in length.

   I usually just push the plug out by pulling the 2 pin collar back, unscrewing the hole saw from the arbor and pushing the plug out with the pilot bit.

   Sometimes this operation requires the judicious application of a screwdriver instead of the pilot bit......

   JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

2. 
   danski0224 | May 02, 2009 06:32pm | #9

   Ooooh... found it :)

   The special third place.

3. 
   hfhcarp10 | May 03, 2009 02:01am | #12

   Mike, Frenchy, et al. thanks for the posts - very useful information. I look forward to your upcoming review in FineHomebuilding, Mike, as I do all your reviews.

   Regards, Bob

7. 
   frenchy | May 02, 2009 06:50pm | #10

   I prefer the Milwaukee Forstner bits.. I have them all the way up to 4 5/8ths

    really smooth bores and no problem getting a plug out (none exists) 

1. 
   rich1 | May 03, 2009 05:01am | #14

   Uh,,, those are self feed bits.  See that little threaded pointy thing?

    

   Try going through 4 1/2" of dry fir with a forstner .

    

   :)

1. 
   frenchy | May 03, 2009 05:00pm | #15

   Then how are they distinguished from self feeding augers  that electricians/ plumbers/ship builders use?   The holes they leave are not smooth.

     By the way Doug Fir is easy!   you should have seen me  bore a   4 5/8ths hole through 14 inches of ash! Now, that was work!  (especially standing on a ladder)

1. 
   rich1 | May 03, 2009 05:19pm | #16

   A forstner bit does not have a screw for a tip.

   Of course, maybe you were using a forstner.  If you were, you should try using a self feed bit sometime.

   A forstner leaves a flat bottom, a self feed is ragged.

1. 
   frenchy | May 03, 2009 05:23pm | #17

   I have both and I do use them with the little straight tip if I want a flat bottom but the trade off is slow going   (and by the way the bottom is not flat it has the dent where the little tip pivots.. )

2. 
   rich1 | May 04, 2009 09:02am | #18

   picky,picky.....

   :)