Replies

1. 
   calvin | Dec 31, 2010 03:42pm | #1

   Not me

   But as long as the frame brackets are Firm, I don't see that it won't work. 

   Most of the low expanse stuff I've used will not firm up well enough I don't believe, to hold those brackets.  They might clip into the channel of the frame, but the real holding power of those this pcs of metal is the surrounding grouting.

   Remember, there's serious torgue-shun on both the hinge and latch side as the door is used. 

2. 
   DanH | Dec 31, 2010 03:52pm | #2

   The foam won't hold up well against weather and won't carry any load.  It will fill gaps, probably better than grout.

3. 
   cfbrew2 | Dec 31, 2010 07:39pm | #3

   Use grout

   I would not use foam. The door frame takes a lot of stress and the foam will loosen up. A frame set with grout is almost indestructible..

4. 
   florida | Jan 01, 2011 04:53pm | #5

   Yes, worked fine too. Took me about 20 cans but it was cheaper than anything else I could do.

1. 
   Arthur Chenoweth | Jan 03, 2011 08:08pm | #10

   hollow metal

   the steel door institute specifies that certain HM frames , including retro masonry openings, especially frames set with bolts, be grouted. if your customer has a failure you could be on the hook for it. usually called 'unworkmanlike manner'.

5. 
   DaveRicheson | Jan 04, 2011 06:06am | #11

   ganoo

   What is at the head (lintel) of the existing wall?  A standard 3068 door in a hollow metal jamb, the outside height of the will be 6' 10". A standard 8" block wall will be 7' or 84" to the bottom of the lintel, leaving a 2" gap unless you order thedoor buck with a 4" head.

   If you use a standard HMD jamb the legs and head can be grouted through that extra 2" space at the top of the head. The grout has to be pretty sloppy and you need a rubber mallet to keep tapping the jamb legs to make sure don't get a lot of voids. It is messy and tedious, but can be done.

   If the Lintel is a two piece block and your jamd is going to end up flush to the bottom, you can take out the front or back lintel block and slush the jamb, then reinstall the lintel.

   For openings with steel lintels I have taken out a half bloch as close the the top of the openeing as possible , but not directly under the lintel, and slushed the jamb for there.

6. 
   Ted W. | Jan 04, 2011 10:23pm | #12

   I use the expanding sealer all the time and it works great, but the low expansive stuff is way too weak. I imagine there is some very slight movement, but that's never been a problem - trim nails aren't popping and caulk joints aren't pulling apart or anything. Just don't close it in with trim until the stuff is fully cured and done expanding. 

1. 
   calvin | Jan 01, 2011 08:05am | #4

   Ted

   Are you talking about setting a hollow metal jamb into a masonry opening?  Where would there be trim nails?

1. 
   ganoo | Jan 01, 2011 06:27pm | #6

   jamb

   that's right, existing masonry opening. no trim, no trim nails .doors swing on roton hinges.

1. 
   calvin | Jan 02, 2011 08:32am | #7

   Tell me more.

   Existing opening.  How are you fastening this frame ?   When laying up block, the masonry hangers are mortered in and the frame grouted.  How do you plan on "grouiting' with foam, is the top open?

   thanks.

2. 
   Ted W. | Jan 02, 2011 06:33pm | #8

   I missed the metal jamb part :)

   but great stuff still works well.

1. 
   calvin | Jan 02, 2011 08:45pm | #9

   That's all right Ted..........

   I missed the existing masonry wall part. 

   I've never grouted HM Frames I've mounted to existing masonry openings (or ones we've cut out).