I was thinking it might be fun to have a thread of poster’s home made, or modified, tools and jigs.
Excavating, concrete, framing, insulating, drywall, millwork, interior or exterior trim, flooring, plumbing, countertops, painting…whatever you do, let’s see what out of the ordinary devices you use to make the job easier, faster, more fun.
I’ll take a few photos today, but have to get my film developed. But how about someone else starts in the meantime?
TIPI,TIPI,TIPI!
In certain scenarios, flat roofs make more sense than pitched roofs (and vice versa).
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Replies
Great idea Jim. I hope others have done better than I on hanging onto them. I think there's some in the back confines, a few cabinet handle template jigs hanging in the van.
I should have taken some pictures of those one of's that you make up for a -specific / probably not repeated- job you're on.
This will be intersting and educational. And a reason we save all those small pcs of whatever.
thanks
New Reigel tonight.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Seems I go through phases. I'll go from kitchen install to kitchen install fot long stretches....than its on to bath remodel after bath remodel.
Decks and porches was another. I had...prolly still do....jigs of various sizes for spindle/ballustrade layout. Must have had a dozen of them...varied in 1/8" increments.
The jig locked onto the "set" ballustrade and held the next in place as I predrilled and screwed it in place.
Remodeling Contractor with no ties to the Glass City
In the 'tool'category, added a DIY 'thumb' to the backhoe last fall.
Quite a usefull device.
View Image
Edited 2/25/2006 7:49 pm ET by junkhound
Edited 2/25/2006 7:50 pm ET by junkhound
Hey Junkhound,Tell me more about your 'thumb'. It looks actuated. You add a cylinder to that or just rig it into the bucket linkage? How much time did it take to make?
Yep, added a cylinder and controls.
Had pre-existing 1/2 steel plates in the shape as shown for the thumb teeth, so didn't have to torch those shapes out.
About as much effort to tap into the hydraulics with a power beyond valve as to hook up the new cylinder and weld on the brackets.
Guess it took about 15-20 hours of time total, including searching the web for the right size cylinder, overall $$ cost about $250 with most the stuff surplus. Over $200 was for the valve and cylinder.
Biggest mistake was undersizing the cylinder rod (should have gone to 1-12/ min vs th 1-1/8 used, it is fast being small, but can bend the 1-1/8 rod at 30" full extension if on forgets and activates the bucket instead of the thumb!
Sure is nice being able to reach out and pick up a 1000 lb. log and put it in the truck.
Okay. Got my film processed.
This is a framing square a lifelong friend modified and sent to me 25 years ago, right after I got married. His Dad started us in the trade when we were kids. I couldn't hold a candle to Brian, then, or ever. But I'm not alone in that, he's quite a craftsman.
He was also the best man at our wedding. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
Hey Jim,
Don't know if I just haven't used my square enough, but what exactly is that modification. I can't tell from the pictures.
Great thread, by the way, hope it stays alive.
-KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
This is something I use frequently, and some of you might not have thought of it. Unfortunately I don't have any pics.I made a set of simple sawhorses, and used a 2X6 for the top rail so I'd have plenty of "meat" there. Then I screwed a pair of 2X4 joist hangers on the 2X6 rails, keeping the bottom of the hangers flush at the bottom edge of the 2X6 rail. (I use 2X4 hangers so the tops of the hangers would be well below the rails, and a saw blade wouldn't be likely to hit them)I set up 2 sawhorses like this with the hangers facing each other. Then I stick a pair of 2X6X6' in the hangers and tack them in place with a screw or nail. That gives me a rectangular work surface for cutting plywood on. That way when you cut through the ply it doesn't fall in after you cut through.Clear as mud?
I'm trying to imagine you with a personality.
I'm confused.View Image
Ugha Chaka! Ugha Chaka! Ugha, Ugha, Ugha, Chaka!
Yes you are...
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
How confused are you?Like Mitremike pointed out - The 2X6 top rail of the sawhorses is vertical. The 2X4 joist hangers are on the side of that. And the 2X6X6' supports sit in the joist hangers. I generally use screws to assemble the thing. Just don't tell Piffin. (-:
Confused? You won't be, after the next episode of "Soap"
Can You draw me a picture?
Ugha Chaka! Ugha Chaka! Ugha, Ugha, Ugha, Chaka!
Now you done it!!!
he's gonna tie up the whole truss design system for two days while he does a CAD rendering in 3/4"=1' scale with dimensioning and load calcs and lumber specs etc.
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
Actually - Ignoring smart-a$$ed cracks about me drawing something up - I was gonna try to get a pic and post it. There was just too much going on last night. And tonight don't look any better...
It is hard to fail, but it is worse to never have tried to succeed. In this life we get nothing, save by effort. [Teddy Roosevelt]
Just a simple hand sketch will do.
Ugha Chaka! Ugha Chaka! Ugha, Ugha, Ugha, Chaka!
You wanted a sketch, here's the best I could come up with using "paint". In this perspective, you're looking at the sawhorse from the side. The black rectangle is the 2X6 top rail. The blue things are (crooked) legs. The red thingies are the 2X4 joist hangers. And the yellow thingies are where the 2X6X6' rails sit in the hangers. There are 2 identical sawhorses like this, set with the joist hangers facing each other. The pair of 2X6X6' runs between the 2 sawhorses.Any clearer now?
Sex is a killer. Wanna to die happy?
I think I got it. So when it's all set up it comes out like a small table. Right?
Ugha Chaka! Ugha Chaka! Ugha, Ugha, Ugha, Chaka!
"So when it's all set up it comes out like a small table. Right?"
More like the FRAME for a table (legs and stretchers) until you lay the plywood on top.
A good plan violently executed NOW is better than a perfect plan next week. [General George S. Patton]
Now that I got my mind in that direction it's a real good idea. I was thinking traditional type sawhorse frame.
Very cool. Thanks.
Ugha Chaka! Ugha Chaka! Ugha, Ugha, Ugha, Chaka!
Don Papenburg sent me some photos of jigs he uses. I'll post them and maybe he'll answer any questions.
Nice jigs, Don. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Here's another...Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Check this versatile jig out.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Okay, I have to ask....what is it?
color me stupid... and all that but I just can't figure it
outView Image
Edited 3/5/2006 9:18 pm ET by butch
>>"color me stupid... and all that but I just can't figure it"
Color me the same. I could try to guess, but I have no idea what to do with that thing. Looks like it must do something very cool though.
Seeking perfection in an imperfect world is a fool's errand. Making something look perfect is a whole 'nother story . . . .
looks like it cuts the cove out at the splash/deck joint of a solid surface countertop
here is the store bought version...
greg
Hey Don! These guys are asking, man. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
I am guessing it cuts a groove for weatherstripping on a exterior door.
Where the heck did you get that thing ? That would have been easier than makeing one .
Betterly Indrustries is the manufacturer- same company that makes the laminate undersriber
greg
Thanks I had never seen that thing any place that I buy tools . Some times it is nice to be able to just buy something rather than spend the time to make it.
Yeah, but look at how much you learn as you "invent" instead of buying. Amazing what we're capable of coming up with if we need it.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Okay, I spent an hour reading the posts and checking out the jigs. Mine aren't as impressive as some but so far I havn't needed to be that impressive. Anywayz...
The first pic shows starting from the left:
A router jig for cutting a 1/2" rabbet 3" from the edge of a board - had to do 12 of them.
A jig for my circular saw to cut the same angle about 100 times (what's the saying, measure once, cut 100 times?)
A cheap plastic router table I chopped the top out of and set it into my work table. I just screw a straigh-edge to the table when I need to use it.
The second pic shows a couple of straight-edges for my circular saw and my jigsaw, and a router jig.
Do home made toolboxes count? The first box holds my taping tools and other trowels. I also have one for my tile tools and one for whatever I have to tote around when I do punch list items.
The second toolbox I made because it seems every power tool comes with a case, and the cases almost never have anyplace to store bits, blades, accessories, etc.. So now I can carry several powertools, with all the extras, even cords and such, in one single box. The top is flat for cutting wood or standing on, just don't stand toward the handle in the center or it might break.
Edited 3/10/2006 8:04 pm ET by Ted W.
Oops, I messed up on the powertools box. Here it is...
Edited 3/10/2006 8:08 pm ET by Ted W.
Ted,
Dig the power tool box, man.
Someday I'm gonna take a week and build some nice boxes.
-KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
"Do home made toolboxes count?"
Heck yes they count. Good idea.
That power tool tote is sweet, man. I really like the drawer.
Here is a shot of my hand tool boxes. The open one in front is for framing and everyday carpentry tools. The chest type box in the back is for finish tools. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Wow, you really pack 'em full! Those are great boxes, I'm afraid I'm going to have to steel the design for the chest. I need one just like it, or very similar, for my hand tools.
Nothing like spending a winter's weekend hunkered down in the shop building or modifying a tool box, huh? I'll try to remember to take some shots of my nail gun boxes. Was a time they didn't all come in a case - some still don't.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Jim,
I really like the chest, but are you going to give us an inventory?
I'd like to see your gun boxes. That's one I think about a lot. Have you seen Taunton's Toolbox Book? There's a cool nailgun tote/stepstool design in there.
This is really turning out to be a great thread.
I'm working on a hinge mortising plane, brass and white oak, hope to finish it this weekend. I'll post when I'm done.
-KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
"...are you going to give us an inventory?"
Well, er, um...that is...I COULD. But then I'd have to take everything out. And as long as I did that I'd have to maybe modify one end of it or something. And I have to meet a potential customer in the morning and the Huskies lost to frikkin' Oregon in the Pac10 tournament last night.
So, no. I guess not.
But let me ask you something. Would you buy a used boomerang from this man?Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Well, not a used one.
BTW Jim, I don't know if you remember but you gave me advice on building some curved windows about a year ago. (lost my username so why I appear new here). It worked out great, this is them. Thanks!
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-----------------------------------------------------------
FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1
Edited 3/10/2006 11:48 pm by Ted W.
View ImageI did like this, I did it like that, I did it with a wiffleball bat.
That one only works if you're registered.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Dustin, that is showing up as a box with a red x in it.You need to save the pic to your hard drive, then upload it here as an attachment.
I've got you outnumbered, one to one. Come out and meet your doom. ~Yosemite Sam
Didn't realize not everyone could see it.
View Image
I did like this, I did it like that, I did it with a wiffleball bat.
Edited 3/11/2006 9:06 am ET by dustinf
Edited 3/11/2006 9:06 am ET by dustinf
View Image
Rock the Tipi. 06
Edited 3/11/2006 8:59 am ET by Gunner
Nice, Ted. Have any more photos of those windows? I've never built anything that sophisticated, love to see more.
I honestly don't remember ever giving an opinions about any curved windows, always work in a flat plane myself. But if the subject was building windows I probably shot my big mouth off. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
I didn't know we could show boxes? I have a box building fetish. I built a fairly nice one that holds my smaller guns. I'll try to take a picture of it tommorrow. It holds two comfortably and if I have too I can squeeze a third one in.
If I didn't have any self control I would have them stacked everywhere.
Rock the Tipi. 06
I'm building me a tool box this weekend. Just a simple rugged box for my demo hand tools. 3 lb. sledge, pry bars, flat bar, etc. They never had a home of their own.
Cool I'll have to do a line up. My shop is a real mess right now. I'm planning on doing a little cleaning so that'll be a good time.
Rock the Tipi. 06
LOL, looks like this is turning into a wooden box thread! Hey, how about a jig for making boxes?-----------------------------------------------------------
FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1
I'm sure somewhere someone has one.
Rock the Tipi. 06
Here's the line up. And looking in each one.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !I need somebody to help me say it one time!
Gunner, what you need is more drills, lol.
Nice boxes. I'm making some right now similar to the one I posted earlier, the one with the drawer. I'll post some pix later. BT-----------------------------------------------------------
FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1
Gunner, what you need is more drills, lol.
I'm telling you. That might be the one thing that I have more of then Norm.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !I need somebody to help me say it one time!
Wheres the pic of the Bammer?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" the best investment in life, is a handle on love''
That's pay per view only.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !I need somebody to help me say it one time!
Nice stuff.I made a crown jig similar to yours. I made it for the largest crown I commonly see, but have inserts that I slip inside the front curb for the smaller sizes.
It's definatly handy and way easy to make. Most of that stuff I do to take my mind off something else for awhile.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !I need somebody to help me say it one time!
gunner... when is panasonic gonna come up with some decent labels for their cases ?
mine are peeling the same way..
View ImageMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I don't know. Kind of a shame. Good drill.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !I need somebody to help me say it one time!
Yeah, that's one of my few gripes about my 15V Panasonic drill.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
G I can see the bottom in every one of those boxes!!!
whats up wid dat???
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
Hey, I don't see no Blue Grass hammers? Hey, pocket doors can't come off the track if they're nailed open
they're in the glass case in the Living RoomMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Tool belt.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !I need somebody to help me say it one time!
Nothing as fancy as you guys but I had to cut some tiles diagonally so I took my speed square and put some stair gages on it and it works like a champ.
When I needed to of set some legs for a table skirt to legs using using biscuits..
I took a piece of 1/8 ply screwed it to the workbench and set the BJ on it and it worked great.
Another jig I use is for a biscuit jointer... I pocket hole 2 pieces of 3/4 lpy at a 90 from each other then screw it to my work bench to use as a stop so anything Im BJing wont get away from me.
I also take some scrap 3/4 ply screw a bunch of piffin screws in them and use it set any thing Im spray finishing on.
especially good for mouldings and cab doors and cabs....
I take some old interior doors set them up on saw horses and put the ply with the piffin screws on'em and spray away...
But Im gonna start makeing some of those tool boxes..They look fun Im also going to start making some shop stools/steps with storage I think that would be fun too. Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Wuts a piffin screw?-----------------------------------------------------------
FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1
Organization. And then of course as I'm loading up to go I cram all the "oter" stuff think I'm gonna need into every nook and crany.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !I need somebody to help me say it one time!
Edited 3/20/2006 11:07 am ET by Gunner
Wheres your lunch stored?
LMC
he has a seperate vehicle for that....
DOH!!!
:)
Mr. T.
"My sincere view is that the commitment of our forces to this fight was done with a casualness and swagger that are the special province of those who have never had to execute these missions - or bury the results." - Retired Marine Lt. Gen. Gregory Newbold.
Well, I had an epiphany! Not really, but some 2" pvc and a 3" abs pipe along with some cutoffs and I got me a bonafide geek box! Check it out! Not really a tool or jig but, it seems handy ( I got the idea from somebody's trailer pics here on BT, forget who though?).It was a great idea so i rewired it!Whoa sorry about that first picture, little too bignormous! Land of the boring 4/12 hip roofs...
Edited 4/22/2006 12:58 am by LEMONJELLO
Smaller one for ya!Land of the boring 4/12 hip roofs...
I use smaller diameter pieces of plastic pipe in pockets of my rigger's bags, to keep chisels, etc, from snagging the fabric.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
I wouldn't call this a jig but it does work as a fixture pretty well.
Got awful tired of the wind blowing the site notes all over as I was trying to read/write.
Made it quite a few years back out of 2 clip boards and some nuts and bolts and finished with some spray-on poly.
Good question. I guess I'll have to come up with a box for that.
Wop bop a loo bop a lop bam boom!
Customer decided that his Azek clad columns needed a panel look.
Used a round over bit to run the long stock on my router table, then used a core box bit in this jig to cope the 150 or so "rails".... the rail pieces were all of 3-1/4" long and would have been even more tedious using my table and coping sled. ..and this little jig was easier to tote along to the jobsite for any needed "adjustments".....
View Image
How about this roll about tool box.
View Image
Edited 3/20/2006 4:02 pm by jagwah
The box shut up.
Do you use that on site, or just in the shop?Speak the truth, or make your peace some other way.
Depends on the length of the job. I'll take it out if I think Ill be there a couple of weeks or more. I used it recently on a trim project that lasted the lasted 7 months. It's a lot easier to roll the box about the house to where I'm working then to run back and forth to a truck or garage. The back door opens to a space that is big enough to hold my Bosch jigsaw case and paslode trim gun case plus a makita right angle drill.
I've been using it since I built it over 15 years ago.
Very nice rig. Very nice.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !I need somebody to help me say it one time!
Thank you.
Yet another knave, uninitiated to the wonders of the Piffin Screw.
Uh, oh. Am I in for 20 different replies about what a piffin screws?-----------------------------------------------------------
FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1
i'm wondering why its called a piffin screw
whats the story behind the name?
A long time ago, in galaxy far, far away there was a guy who decided that drywall screws should only be used for <gasp> drywall. He fought one poster to the death, and beat another into submission with a piece of Ipe, just to prove his point. His only injury was a slight tear of his rotator cuff.
for more info View ImageAdvanced SearchSpeak the truth, or make your peace some other way.
His only injury was a slight tear of his rotator cuff.
Ironically, the tear was repaired with...
You guessed it...
Screws.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
Sure it wasn't duct tape??
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Only The Oracle knows for sure.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
Oracle????
wasn't someone impeached for that???
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
Now don't be turnin' this into a political thread!
LOL
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
Yes, we don't talk about that part of the Oracle's life or the other of her husbands indescretions.
All righty then! Some great posts here. (jagwah, that is one sweet looking tool box, man. You ever consider putting a trailer hitch on that?<g>).
My gun boxes look similar to yours, Gunner. I'm on relaxed schedule the rest of this week so I think I'll be able to get some shots of a few of mine.
In the mean time, here's a photo of my favorite tool. It's all handmade (except for one washer under the wingnut) by Tim, one of the guys who attended Riverfest last year. He tried to give it to Calvin, but Calvin insisted I take it. The only way I agreed was if Tim promised to make another for Calvin. I sure hope he did because it's really something special.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
That's a fun looking tool. Never thought of making myself a better scribe, great idea.
And ya I think of adding a hitch every time I have to load and unload it.
Yessir Jim, proud recipient. I use it almost as many times that I pull it out of my bag to show people.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin,
I told Tim that the shape of the leg didn't allow for small scribing.
He said he was going to make a new leg with a bit of a foot just for scribing.
Of course that was a couple of monthes ago - still no leg!
Terry
Jim,
Calvin didn't give you the whole story on how he came to give you the scribe.
When Tim first gave it to Cal he just put it on the free table. After nobody picked it up, he decided he didn't want Tim's feeling's to get hurt, so he said he was giving it to you.
He was just trying to get rid of it.
Terry
That's a mighty sharp needle you're wielding there, Terry! Tim get the best of you yesterday or something? <G>Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Jim,
Oh Hell, Tim thinks he gets the best of me most any day.
Terry
Thanks Terry.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Always an instigator.
Terry
that you are Terry.
And a good one at that.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Holy smokes! Just happened to see this e mail Don Papenburg sent me on the 12th! Sorry, Don, don't know how the heck I missed it entirely.
Anyways, these two are photos of the cove cutter in use.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Can you shrink these down and maybe explain.
Mike - When I open those photos I right click, then "open in new window" and I get the entire photo in that new window - no scrolling in any direction. Have you tried that?
As for explaining, hopefully Don will be along shortly, I'm just the photo poster in this case. I couldn't figure out what that jig was for the first time he posted photos of it. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
I think Jim was talking about building a case for a belt sander in this or some other thread. Anyway, I was meaning to do that anyway. Finally got around to it, except for finding a latch. It takes up a lot of real estate, but I found that there's room for a little 1/4 sheet sander in there too.
zak
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View Image
Nice looking piece Zak. I wish I had the patience to do nice work like that.
Don't delay putting that hardware on. If I was making nice boxes like that, I'd go get some brass business cards and set them into it.
blue
If that's what you think, my pictures must have been fuzzy. Thanks for the compliment anyway.
I made most of the case out of scraps from tambour doors- for some reason a friend's dad had a pile of 'em sitting around. it's just fir, but the quartersawn oak veneer pretties it up some.
zak
I can’t believe I screwed around this long to post… ya get busy and assume a good thread like this will last forever!Anyway. I got a couple of pics to post but I’ll just start with one and hopefully get this thread going again. BTW, thanks Jim Blodgett, for getting it started!!! I love the “Tips†section in the FHB the most and this is pretty much the raw footage of that.I do a handyman service, and as such I pretty much have to have just about anything I might need with me most of the time as far as tools go so every nook and cranny in the van has to be used to it’s potential. Anyone working out of a van has probably tripped over the “Step†at the door while backing out of the van with the tool of choice, at least once. Usually when it’s wet outside, which forces your legs to stretch beyond their comfort zone. Soooo, it’s a tripping hazard and a waste of precious space. I used to have misc. crap just sitting there figuring I’ll get to it when I get time, and as you no there’s never any time to do it. In the Army we used to say “There’s never time to do it right, but there’s always time to do it overâ€
Crap was always falling out every time you opened the side door. So I finally did something about it. I built a shelf/step unit that I could store stuff in and I could step on while backing out of the van. Here it is…..
I don't think you quite got it- you attached a document file. show us what you're talking about, eh? sounds nice.zak
Sory, my badI'll try this again
Holy Mega byte batman...that is worse!
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Iam not a poet, but your hat is singularily inadequate"
That looks handy.
Here's Dan's van step box in a more dial up friendly size.
Mike , I needed a way to make a tapered semi circle for a core box . It tapers from 11 inches to 2inches in 37 inches . The way it works is simple : take two nails partway driven into a board 5-10 inches apart . Now set your frameing square against the nails so the heal is below them . Put a pencil at the corner of the heal and slide the square from side to side and it will scribe a perfect semi circle . A core box is used to make a core for sand casting metal objects . The core will be the hollow part of the casting .
I just got it! I didn't see the end of the bit protruding at the corner. That's cool! Made my day."With every mistake we must surely be learning"
I apologize a gazillion times over, Don. You must have been wondering about these.
These two are A flatwork tool box. Crimony, I keep my trowels in a bucket. I'm going to have to build something like this. Great idea. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
I used to do that also . But then my kneeling boards were always laying some place else . This way they become part of the box .
No need to apologize , after all you have things to do yourself .
"Sure it wasn't duct tape??"
Piffin tape! -----------------------------------------------------------
FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1
Here is one I put together to cut slatwall (large t-slots) in a bunch of ply for a motorcycle shop. The dowel pins drop into the previous track to locate the next.
Were you cutting rabbets or dados 3" in from edge? Nice work on your stuff. Good luck on finding job.
Bob
How do you like that router? I have been thinking about getting one.
I like it, I have the plunge base set up on the router attachment for the EZ Smart and have been doing dados in some bookcases. It is real smooth and quiet. So much so that it appears underpowered but goes right through whatever you put it up against.
I was out of town and my BIL did most of the slatwall cuts. I did not know he was going to so we did not talk about feedrate, cutting speed etc and I was afraid he might have toasted it. But he is a machinist and I guess he figured it out. The slatwall cutter is a pretty mean bit that you must cut all at one pass.
I got mine from Amazon.
my current version of a large radius router trammel
Erich
View Image
Edited 3/11/2006 12:25 pm ET by ELoewen
I'm pretty sure it was you jim, the math for the diameter of an 8' arch 7-1/4" deep, and advized me to mortise/tennon the dividers. But come to think of it, was over 3 years ago because I built them in the place I'm now living, which was under remodeling at the time - and I been here over 3 years.
Oh, and I only built the two 8' sashes, not the bays. Anyway, if it wasn't you I thank whoever it was. In keeping with this thread, I built another jig. It's a 3 sided box which holds my handsaw at a 90 or 45 degree angle, for mitering small pieces of wood. Works great, I might make more and sell them. -----------------------------------------------------------
FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1
Nothing beats a good home made toolbox. I should set aside more time to build a few more- here's the one I have built, copied from Gary Katz's design on his website or out of FHB.Also, here's a block plane and a marking gauge I made last year- crude but effective.zak
Hey I built that one too. Twice! Looks nice.
Rock the Tipi. 06
That's a handy tote. Mine's a carry-box,such that I can kick it around to stand on, but that makes it heavier.
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Edited 4/2/2006 12:53 pm by piko
Thanks piko, I'm making a more refined version which I plan to mass produce, hopefully for a profit. I'll get back to that in a moment.
I'm cutting lots and lots of dados against the grain in thin veneer plywood and it kept splintering along the edges. Not wanting to measure and score each one before running the router, I put together a simple jig which I slide across the work piece before routing.
The first picture shows the top of the jig, with 2 utility blades held secure, separated by a 1/2" strip of plywood - the same width as the dados I'm cutting. (Note, I'm not showing the one for rabbets because the principal is basically the same.)
The second picture shows the underside of the jig, with a 1/2" track for riding along the edge, or along a previously cut dado or rabbet.
The third picture is a close-up of the tiny bit of blade sticking through the bottom side. The one toward the back is barely visible, but it's there.
The fourth picture shows the difference, in this case with rabbets.
And about my comment to pico, it's regarding the wooden toolboxes I posted some ago here in this thread. The fifth picture shows the more refined version I'm currently working on. All joints are dadoed or rabbeted, 1/2" cabinet grade birch plywood, the tall ends of 3/4" plywood, and the handle is 1-1/2" x 3" oak.
The top is flat for holding wood while cutting, not for standing as the middle isn't strong enoug, although you could extend a plank between 2 of these boxes and it would be plenty sturdy. The one shown will have 2 drawers and is 23" tall by 26" long by 11-1/2" wide. I put my nailer in it so you can tell how big it is.
I'm also making a single drawer version and a plain (no drawer) version. They will all have steel flip-up handles on the 2 sides because they can carry a really heavy load.-----------------------------------------------------------
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I think you'll do ok with that...people appreciate handmade, quality-made products. Might I suggest craft fairs or markets? If you've the time to meet with folks as well, they can be won over with your handiwork and a winning smile. The only caution I would advise is - don't make the handle look like you can stand on it. Someone, somewhere is going to hurt themselves even tho' you post "do not stand", in fact someone might do it out of buggerance...
ps: another word - don't fall for the Ikea "We'll buy everything you turn out" trick. Somebody I know went for the big time, and they dropped him later...lost all his contacts and the impetus, and left him with stock that he couldn't sell.All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Hey, you're up at this hour also? LOL
I was just now checking out your website. It looks way better now with all the colors, gives it a lot more personality.
I plan to sell the boxes online, probably through MyToolbox.net. That's why I havn't done anything with the site, if I use it to sell wooden toolboxes I'll need to redesign the whole thing anyway. I also plan on having a lot more boxes to choose from, but will take some time to design them and set up production. I have to see how these fare first.
Update: I'm 180 lbs and I just now tried jumping up and down on the handle. I didn't stomp on it, as I'm sure that would break it, but I can certainly stand on it. Conversely, I do plan on putting a warning that it's not for standing on. If anyone does stand on it and it does break or they loose their ballance, it's their own liablility.
Ikea is welcome to buy all they want but I wouldn't take large orders from anyone without at least partial payment up front, especially custom orders.
Later! :o)
-----------------------------------------------------------
FT Job Wanted: Chicago, north side/North Shore burbs. http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=70809.1
Edited 4/5/2006 2:41 am by Ted W.
It is kinda cool the way that a right angle makes a semi circle . The legs ride on two fixed rails so to speak and it cuts out a semi circle in the wood between .
Very cool. Very creative solution to a tricky problem.
Seeking perfection in an imperfect world is a fool's errand. Making something look perfect is a whole 'nother story . . . .
Here are a few more photos Don sent me. Sorry for taking so long to post these, Don.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
another...Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
another...Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
last one. Gotta hit the shower...Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Years ago I saw some staging like that on a roof in Maine...
Every time I ask anyone if they know what I am talking about they look at me like I'm crazy....
HA!
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
"...they look at me like I'm crazy..."
Don't MOST people look at you that way?Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Hey Don, so the post on one side telescopes in and out to change the angle and the horizontal bar across the bottom pivots? So you can change the angle for various roof pitches?
How do you keep it from sliding down the roof?Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Jim I drilled the long post every four inches ,it pivots. The short post is drilled every 1 1/2 inches about four holes worth. ,it slides . I thought that the short post sliding would be better than rhe long one . I can go just past 10/12 pitch.
There are verious ways to hold it on the roof . I plan to use angle now to bolt over the peak to the one on the opposite side . Chain works , but not to my likeing . Might be able to attach to the ground stageing ,depends on the distance from the eave that the roof scaffold has to be. If you are doing a complete roof maybe you could install anchors in the peak. Use your immagination , any thing is possible
yer welcome...
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
The single drawer box is completed and finished with 2 coats of satin polyurethane. The two-drawer box is puttied and sanded. I say it "sort of" completed because it's not going to get varnished, at least not by me. The plain box still needs puttied and sanded.
And now for my thoughts. Basically, I'm not satisfied. I'm going to use what materials I have to make a few more boxes with some minor revisions as follows:
A) The drawers are too shallow, the inside of the drawer is only 1-3/4" deep. By switching to 1/4" plywood for the bottom I can get them a full 2" deep.
B) I want to make another version like the 2-drawer, but with one deep drawer instead.
C) I want to make one thats not as wide. These are 24-1/2" to fit a carpenters 2' lever and framing square. But these aren't only for carpenters, they're for anyone. A lot of people will want something a bit smaller. You can't tell by the photos but these are really big boxes.
There are some other issues having to address, but I'll skip all the gory details, cuz I'm too tired to to do that much typing. However one important matter is that I'm not satisfied with the results I'm getting from using plywood. I think the ones that finally go to market are going to be solid wood. Well, plywood is solid wood but you know what I mean. I think I'll offer the option of oak for the spendworthy and construction grade pine for the more budget minded.
1:48 AM. I think it's bed time. Tomorrow.... er, I mean today, I'm going to scrape vinyl sticky tile from an old porcelain tile bathroom floor. I'll share some pics. Nighty Nite.
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
Oh wait, I forgot to mention. The 2-drawer box is 23" tall and weighs about 30 lbs. They are all 26" wide.
--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Edited 4/8/2006 3:23 am by Ted W.
Nice looking boxes Ted W.
How much?
blue
Thanks Blue, I'm still working that out. Need to get the process down pat and figure out how long it takes, price the wood, all that stuff. One thing for sure, they'll be reasonable compared to the time it would take to make one.--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Are there any kind of stops or latches on the drawers to keep them from sliding out?Looks good.
Thanks Bill,
I'm open to ideas but so far it's never been an issue for me. I don't want anything surface mounted or protruding, as it's just a matter of time before the latch would meet with a 2 x 12 or a clumsy work boot. That's why I made a finger hole instead of a wooden or metal pull (which might be replace with a recessed metal, little swing out ring thingy, I don't know what it's called).
Since the handle is so tall the box is always fairly vertical when carying. Unless carried by the side handles, in which case the drawers are either against my stomach or if facing out, tipped back toward me. But I think others are going to want a latch of some sort, especially so they don't slide open in the back of their truck, for instance. --------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
"don't slide open in the back of their truck, for instance."That was my concern.One though is that you could use a magent(s) on in the middle of the drawer side and matching ones (or steel) imbedded in to the side of the case.You would need to play with the size and spacing to have enough retension, but not too much. But you might have problems with fastners or small tools sticking to the other side of the side. But it won't be as strong through the 1/2" side.A simple, fool proof latch, would be a brass barrel bolt mounted on the inside of the case side in the upper section with the pin dropping down and catching a notch in the drawer side. However it look a little kludy.If you wanted "art" you could make the slide out of a walnut dowel and a small brass pin for a handle and two brass U shaps for guides. Acutally you do do the whole thing with walnut (or anyother contrasting wood).
The pin sounds like a good idea. I'm not looking for art but the barrel bolt would probably look like an afterthought. I'm wondering if I can embed the brass pin in the tall side somehow, and have it go into a hole along the edge of the dwawer. Hmmm.... maybe a 90 deg. bend for grasp and to hook into the top of the slide to keep it up when unlocked. I wouldn't want it to slide into the inside of the drawer since the tools will block it's path. I have to ponder this one but the pin is definately a good idea.--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Hey Ted- I think I posted this before, I don't know if you saw it. It's a toolbox similar to Gary Katz's featured in FHB. Definitely not as nice as yours, but like you say- the drawer is 2 1/4" deep, which is just about right, and it's got a little wood toggle that keeps the drawer closed when you're swinging it around. I use it for a stepstool quite a bit. Also, since this picture, it's got a spot for chisels on one side (a piece of plywood with a lot of different sizes of dados).
Baltic birch just seems like the perfect material for this, at least for the sides that are holding the handle- you'd have to worry about wood shrinkage if you mated long grain to side grain at the corners.
zak
Yeah, I saw that one. I thought I commented that I like it, especially that you can stand on it, and made a joke that if it weren't for the handle cutout your tools would be safe in the rain. But I browsed back and can't find the post, don't know what happened. Anyway, yeah I like it.
I didn't think about birch but there's no reason it couldn't be. I said oak because the handle is oak for strength. I'm clearly stating that it's not for standing, but assuming that most people will stand on it anyway. Then pine with an oak handle will look nice too. With birch I would probably use a maple handle for a consistent look. Then there's Honduran cherry, walnut, ipe.... lol. --------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
I've built a couple of those. And I agree on the birch. Very good material.
Wop bop a loo bop a lop bam boom!
I love that baltic birch- I've been going through a couple sheets a month just on miscellaneous cr@p around the house- drawers, tool boxes, furniture, you name it. I recently discovered that the two cabinet shops a couple blocks from my house throw away bunches of prefinished hardwood plywood scraps, so now I'm using that a lot.
If someone would explain why baltic birch comes in 5x5 sheets, I would appreciate it- is it just to make it hard for me to store with the rest of my ply, or is there a more benevolent reason?
zak
Okay, I was reading "Baltic Birch" as a wood species, but now I realize you're refering to a plywood (re: ...why 5 x 5 sheets?). So what's the deal with this Birch plywood from Baltland? Is it somehow different from birch faced plywood? (Which btw, is what I was using.) Besides the 5' dimention, what's different?--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
View Image
Wop bop a loo bop a lop bam boom!
3/4 'baltic' birch (my supplier says 'russian' birch is the interchangable) 13 ply, very stable and almost no voids: good jig making stuff.
That's what I'm using - almost 1/2" and almost 3/4" and almost no voids. Thing is, the outer skin is sooooo thin it splinters when I sneeze the wrong way, and my ro sander will go right through it if I'm not careful, but I am.
See my scoring jig here
See the plys in the attachment, down there.
--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Edited 4/8/2006 10:45 pm by Ted W.
ah, the bit about splintering is helpful to me. I'm a newby and I was thinking it was my technique and/or my saw. Guess it probably still is a question of my technique and saw but it's helpful to know others have the same issue. I taped one of my cuts which helped some.
It is your technique that's causing it, namely that of not scoring the line before cutting. LOL
It was a while before I discover the blade, mentioned it in a book. Before that enlightening moment I used tape also, which more often than not was of little help. Going through a good book on trim carpentry you'll find a lot of tips that are useful beyond trimming. --------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
One flavor of a domestic version of Baltic/Russian Birch plywood is called "ApplePly":
http://www.statesind.com/prod/ind_2a2.html
It comes in "normal" sizes. I've even gotten it prefinished - really nice stuff!
I finally took some shots of some boxes at lunch time the other day. I really like that Baltic Birch, too. There's something we get here now that's made in (I'm pretty sure) China almost as dense - it's a 13 ply 3/4" birchlike face, "A" grade face both sides, no voids, 4x8 sheets for about 30.00/sheet. I really like it for cabinet boxes and large drawer pieces.
Anyways, here are some of my gun boxes. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
All the talk about that Rigid miter saw stand last year, I went out and bought one and love it. But not as much as I like this other Rigid stand I bought by mistake, thinking it was for a miter saw. It's lower and wider, perfect for a jobsite table saw like my old hunk of iron.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Most of you probably remember the motor hangs off the back of those old Delta contractor's saws. Makes it hard to transport, and really hard to fit through your average 2'8" interior door. So I cut the wire that goes from the switch to the motor and put standard male/female electrical ends on the wire - see there are two male ends on the motor? One for the power outlet, one for the switch.
Takes less than a minute to wheel the saw into place, slide the motor on the mounting shafts, slip the belt over both pullys (one on the motor, one on the blade shaft), connect the wiring and presto chango, I'm ready to start making sawdust.
Love old tools that take a lickin' and keep on tickin'.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Someone was asking about saw horse height the other day. My everyday horses look like these, butare 24" tall. When my son was about 6 I built him a set of these saw ponies for Xmas. Little did I know how much I would use them.
These are 17" tall - almost perfect for setting wall cabinets after the base cabinets are in. Plus, 17" plus a scaffold plank is a great working height for many tasks, not too high to step right up onto, but high enough to do most everything in normal house.
And here's the kicker. The two of them stacked, are exactly the same height (24") as my everyday horses. Very handy when I need a third horse.
I have another set similar to these that is 36" tall that I use mostly in my spray room, but that's a great height for milling lots of stock in the shop, too. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Jim, I don't know much about table saws. I do know how heavy the old ones are. Your idea to detach a motor makes a lot of sense to an old guy like me with a weak back.
I'm kinda confused looking at two male plugs coming out of a motor though. It makes me think that one could theoretically be hot and exposed at the same time.
Am I just crazy or could that really happen?
blue
blue, could you give a reading on Jim's sawhorses?
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
...the sawhorse whisperer..."he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
"I'm kinda confused looking at two male plugs coming out of a motor though. It makes me think that one could theoretically be hot and exposed at the same time.
Am I just crazy or could that really happen?:
Yeah, I guess that could happen, blue. Would have been a lot smarter to put the male part on the switch side, wouldn't it? Just no end to the dumb stuff I do. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Yeah, you've got an OSHA ding right there waiting for you.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
The only reason I noticed it was because I've did something like that myself!
We used to tap into the meter direct with a pigtail for our 220 compressor. So, one day I decided that we needed a longer pigtail and I made one that was about 30' long. The problem was that I had cut off the female end and added our clips. Thankfully, my partner was standing there as I hooked it up and he casually asked "How's that gonna work?". Since I was used to that question, I immediately unplugged it and started looking for what was wrong. It took me a few minutes to figure it out.
blue
Haaa, haaa, haaa....
Hanging in my shop I have a 50' cord with a 4 outlet box at one end and a female plug at the other. I did the same thing a few months ago and it's still hanging there, waiting for me to re do it, or find a male outlet to plug it on to. LOL--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Looking to have a menage a trois?
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
As long I'm the only one with a male receptacle! LOL--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
I think you would rather be the male plug, not receptacle. Believe the receptacle by definition would be female.
By the way that is some beautiful work on your site!
Here is a box I made for the E-Z Smart. Some scrap plybead and few sticks of corner moulding. Probably would not survive a crew but will work for me. I has the cabiner maker (square, two repeaters) and the basic 100" (two 50") guide and clamps. Wiped it down with tung oil.
Edited 4/9/2006 4:06 pm ET by rasconc
If you want to get confused there are plugs and sockets and male and female connectors.When you get into electronic connectors you have male plugs with female connectors Or male plugs with male connectors.
And it can get really confusing with multiwire connectors containing coax "pins".
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
it is actually 1.5 meters square...
there are little diamonds on metric tape measures for laying out studs for using it as sheating.
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
Hmmm, metric eh? Are they trying to convert to doing something smart? How dare they!
Someone was asking in another thread about the diamonds on their tape measure, which was replied to - they are meters. Okay, I'll covert. We'd better get started tearing out all these SAE measured houses and start converting 'em to the decimal system. --------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
First all layers are birch not some softer material and it's has very few voids (If any depending on grade). and is very stable.
Although we call it 3/4, 1/2 " and 1/4 it is actually measured in metric thickness in increments of 3mm3mm (1/8â€)
6mm (1/4â€)
9mm (3/8â€)
12mm (1/2â€)
15mm (5/8â€)
18mm (3/4â€)You can also get Maple Ply known as die board almost no voids and thickness tolerances of ±.005" consistent moisture content, and ultra smooth face grade veneer. I get mine from a local die maker (dies for cutting boxes) I buy all his larger off cuts they make great jigs and drawer boxes.
I Had to make a core box for a cone mandrel . The cove is 11 " down to 1/2" in 46" . That is why the legs are so long on the base . The core box is what a foundry man uses to make the inside of a hollow casting . It is filled with a special sand mix and then baked .
Yeah I get it---Cool--no more flooping what ever on top to cross cut ply--I gotta keep that one up front---Thanks--I had a problem visualizing it till I realized the 2x6 saw horse streter was vert. not horz.That cleared up the mud--Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Oh so many jig and so little free harddrive space---OK--how about my top three favorites--In no particular order--1. a jig I made to sharpen my 4" bench joiner--old craftsman iron type-- Once both blade are lock in I just work my way thru the grits on some wet-dry wrapped around a piece of granite I talked the CT guy out of ,and bring both edges back in 20 min. or so. 2--A jig I made to template stair threads--Was pulling out the carpet threads and replacing with maple ones--Not very orginal but for couple of hours in the garage and some laying around material, minus the wing bolts from Rockler, came away with a hard working jig.3--A shooter board, again not revelutionary, but just the ticket for making the mitre for a riser return on a shirt board. I made it to work with my DW trim saw---The runner part is 45ed so all I have to do is line the bevel up with the top and bottom ticks , clamp and cut away--still have to finish by hand to keep the kerf from overexteding the seat cut---Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Here's one a neighbor modified for me a couple years ago. For the life of me I couldn't drill the steel. Man, that stuff is HARD!Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
I've seen old backwards saws in museums, etc. I know they come in handy for close cutting in certain positions.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I got the idea a couple years ago when a poster here asked "who holds their handsaw backwards?". Truth is, I hold my handsaws baxkwards about as often as I hold them the conventional way, to finish cuts made with circular blades for example.
So I thought this might be a great idea. Ironically, after all these years of holding handsaws "backwards" this one doesn't feel quite right when I use it. I think maybe I've learned to apply pressure with the heel of my hand and the angle of the handle doesn't aloow for that on this saw.
I still use it a lot, though. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
Some of the Japanese pull saws let you reverse the blade in the handle for this sort of thing. I've got one that does, and I'll agree that something "doesn't feel right" with the handle reversed.I've never tried a Japanese dovetail saw -- that might work better in this situation.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I realized I sized them way down so if you like here are some one size bigger---Same pixs---Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Hey Mike - I have used various stair tread templates through the years. Then I saw these at the Collins booth at JLCLive! last year. Fit nicely in my finish tool box and work with any scrap. That frikkin' Dave Collins, man, about everything they make/sell is highly useful.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
If I had know about these I wouldn't have made mine--Hey wait an minute--JLC is coming to MN. in the fall---better make sure I find him. It was one of those "emergency" jobs from a husband who promised DW new stair treads and couldn't get a grip on making em fit ---so he did the smart thing and called in the calvary---Saved his bacon and earned me some Christmas money--win,win I say.Got a bonus job out of it too. Capped of some nice iron railings with some 6/4 maple. The powder coated iron with the clear seal maple turned out sharp--might have to use that idea sometime around my place.
Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Very clear what a great idea I'm going to build a pair tomorrow
Bing
Look at the 2" blade, Kit. There is a piece of 1/2"x1/2" alluminum right angle riveted to it so the square can be layed flat on a board and held square without tipping the blade over the edge of the board.
Very nice as a straight edge for making right angle cuts on wide finish material with a handheld circular saw, like wide plank flooring, or wide fascia for example.
Those planes are awesome, man. Inspiring.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
In other words, a giant speed square.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
Oh! I knew something had been added on to the blade, but I couldn't tell what it was. Maybe my eyes are getting bad. Thanks for the clarification.
-KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
Art, how bout a couple more pics of this?
Looks like something I need here in the land of rocks.
Joe H
I'll take some pix when the grandkids come over after school, they like to run it so can do some operating and detail pix then.
In the meantime, here is a springload featherboard, rail fits in table slot, 2 ea springloaded rollers for workpiece.
and a valvegrinder (got sticker shock a few months back, heads used to be $30, now $120, no idea why such a big jump - just did a 3.3L chrysler set of heads with this setup and great results)
I would be afraid of taking too much off of the valve.
Geekbox hero who once visited the glass city.
Here are some more details, low resolution to fit prospero, e-mail me if you want more details.
View Image
Edited 3/1/2006 6:17 pm ET by junkhound
It must work plus I never could understand how a person can get along without making his own stuff0--especially by welding. I would post some of mine but they all have smooth welds, primer and paint so you would think they are factory made.:) Could have used yours a couple of jobs back regardless. Maybe I can find a picture of something, not a tool, just so you know what I'm talking about. Heh, heh, Tyr
I was helping a friend with his house and I had to cut the sono tubes for the piers.
We needed 4' lengths in 24" and 18" sonos; the sonos were 12' long. I made jig to put on my table saw.
Oh, I'm gonna be stealin' that one!
NICE!
Remodeling Contractor with no ties to the Glass City
Sono tube jig.......impressive.
I dont know that any of this is horribly ingenuitive . . .
featherboards out of 6/4 oak and long enough they double between table saw and router table
when I got the 9' rail for the Festool saw they didnt make a carrying case long enough for that. I ordered a 10' sheet of ply, ripped a couple of 9" rips off it, padded both sides with carpet foam, then wrapped each of them in ripstop fabric. Then I bought some really heavy cordura online and a 12' heavy zipper and made what essentially looks like a really long gun case. It has a flap in the middle, also padded, so I can velcro a rail on each side of the case and they dont hit in the middle. It can sit in the trailer, get hit, and I don't worry about the rails now. Had to go to an awning maker to find someone who could sew fabric that heavy.
"A bore is a man who, when you ask him how he is, tells you." -Bert Taylor
Real simple jig here- I made it to slide along a flat worktable and flatten a curly birch and brazilian cherry bar I made.
It's just a couple of L-profile peices of plywood on rails that ride on the table- router goes back and forth, jig goes along the workpeice. It helps to have a nice big router bit, of course.
I more or less copied it from a method Tage Frid had of flattening workbench tops.
I may think of some others I've made.
zak
Hey. Did all that fir make it home the other day?Remodeling Contractor with no idea where the Glass City is
Yeah, it made it home safe and sound! All that fir is now resting safely in my attic, waiting for me to build stairs, increase the size of the joists, etc., etc, and someday make it look beautiful. Thanks again Jim.zak
Good ideer James!!!
I'm gotta take the digicam out to the shop and start finding Jigs...
I'm really just posting cause I don't know how to get a discussion as High interest any other way...
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
right at the bottom of the thread, 'rate my interest' click on the thumbs up...doode
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Why the hell did they go hiding it right in plain sight!!!
effing prospero!!!
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
AND hit Apply.
Good observation..I bet 'T' is still missing a thumb...LOL
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Thanks for the bowls, man. Those are sweet.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
You're welcome for the bowls, I'm glad you like them. Last firing didn't come out so great, so those bowls are a couple years old.I'm happy to see this thread continue- I'm learning lots. Don, if I read you right, the router jig is for making wide cove? Have you running stock through the tablesaw at an angle to adjust the cove radius? I should get a picture of this I suppose, but I use a moulding head cutter with a round blade and then make a fence that is about 15 degrees off of parallel with the blade to make the crown moulding for my house. comes out very clean, and it does it in one pass.zak
Zak, That work well for a straight cove . This cove is 5 3/4 " R. at one end and 1/2" R. at the other 46" away.
Don-
I kind of get you now. Do you have any pictures of the jig at work? sounds neat, and I'm still having trouble visualizing how the radius changes. I'll have to go back and read your posts again.
zak
Ok, here's one more- your standard shooting board, which I varnished and waxed the he!! out of, and use mostly for cutting granite and tile, diamond blade on a wormdrive and a stream of water.Now some more creative people are going to need to step up- we need pictures here!zak
Hey Jim, making jigs and fixtures is one of the favorite parts of my job...here's a mini/mini router/shaper table that came about through pure lazyness.The base is part of a big, heavy router table I made. I used to lug it to jobs to make stuff like maple shoe, transition strips between different flooring, window sills, you name it.Did I mention it was a heavy set up?<G> One day the light went on, and I put the little fence on the base, clamped the rig to the miter saw table...whoa.Hey, then I got too lazy to take the base off to use it as regular router...super stable, and with the fence on, it's great for bullnosing stuff too long or big to hump through a router table...now, most of my routers have that base and fence setup. Hey, pocket doors can't come off the track if they're nailed open
Is that "Festool Green" or "Hitachi Green" on that router? Looks like a longer than stock cord...whenever I have a cord go bad on a tool, I add a new longer cord--then I need a bigger tool case > : )
looks like green electric tape on the trigger
Someone here once said:
I am a professional, do not try this at home!!!
who was it again???
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
PC 690, with, as Mr T so astutely observed, a hint of green clean release tape...but jeeze, the tape is on the cord, not on the trigger...because I do, indeed, have cord issues<G> Hey, pocket doors can't come off the track if they're nailed open
I made a similar one for my routers using cheap 1/2 in polycarbonate plastic I get cheam from a plastic fabrication shop. I just take their leftovers.
But, it never occured to me to turn it over and use it like a router table.
Frickin genius.
STEf
I love ya, man...but yer still not gettin' my bud lite<G> Hey, pocket doors can't come off the track if they're nailed open
He can have ALL of my Bud lite...
Pizzwater....
See ya in August Amigo!!!
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
I'm looking foreward to a real breakfast<G> Hey, pocket doors can't come off the track if they're nailed open
OhYEAH!!!
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
Jim,
Here are some of my favorites:
The first picture are some of the regular planes I've built. These are the planes I use when I'm working in the shop. My two favorites are the maple jointer in the middle and the rosewood smoother out front. Don't know what it is about those two, but they are MAGIC.
The second picture is a closeup of the smoother. It has a 2" wide, high-speed steel iron (A2).
The third picture is some of the curved sole planes I've built for various projects. Each has a dfferent radius, some from side to side and some from front to back. The little one I'm holding in the fourth picture has a curve copied from one of James Krenov's. It is the one I use the most. That curve, more elliptical than round, and the place the iron exits on the curve.... well, I'd say that plane is magic, too.
-Kit
Edited 2/26/2006 11:49 am by vanderpooch
Kit, man, I gotta tell you, I'll take your word on the utility of those planes, but I think they are beautiful as objects. You must really be proud of them, huh?Remodeling Contractor with no idea where the Glass City is
Jim, what an awesome idea for a thread!
I gotta agree, Kit's planes are beautiful!
Kit, where do you get your blades from? I saw a show on planes on the Old Yankee Workshop and I enjoyed it tremendously. I think I would like working with planes that I built.
blue
Jim,
I guess I am proud of them. I don't know if I would be if they didn't work so well. I like my iron planes, too, especially my block planes, but using them just isn't the same.
Blue,
Most of the blades are made by Ron Hock (http://www.hocktools.com), a few are high speed steel made by David Finck. Many of my early planes were made with irons from old wooden planes I scrounged and cut down. They're fun to make. The first I ever made is stll one of my favorites. It actually lives in the pickup and goes to work with me. I like to takke it out and show the boys a thing or two. They think I'm old-school. (I'm 33.)
-KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
Beautiful workmanship and a great idea. I am going to learn a lot from this thread. Thanks for sharing
Greg in cold and overcast connecticut
Good thread Jimbo. I'll have to venture out to the shop and see what's interesting. Here's one I stole off the fine homebuilding website. I love these little guys. http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/hvt006.asp
Ugha Chaka! Ugha Chaka! Ugha, Ugha, Ugha, Chaka!
That is funny Gunner...I was holding Carroll's book Working Alone in it when you posted that link. Needed to look up something or the other.
He's pretty slick.
Ugha Chaka! Ugha Chaka! Ugha, Ugha, Ugha, Chaka!
No pictures or other info, but my grandfather on my mother's side lost his arm (left one IIRC) as a teen (hunting accident). But he worked as a farmer, schoolteacher, mechanic, and, in his later years, did woodworking.
The woodworking wasn't high art but was sturdy (I still have a couple of stools he made) and not bad looking. Pretty much all oak with a light stain and simple varnish finish. Mostly footstools and bar-type stools, but he made a few chairs and small tables. Probably half the homes in Silver Springs MS have a stool of his.
He used a dozen different jigs of his own invention to help him cut the pieces, turn the legs, and fasten everything together, using only the one arm (and the above-the-elbow stub of the other). I can only vaguely recall a few of them, one a sliding table on the table saw that allowed him to clamp the workpiece in place while cutting.
happy?
Hi Jim, looks like this thread went all over the place...interesting read.
Here's a couple of tools I made for refacing cabinetry. The first is a veneer cutting guide. Recognized the need early on, nothing commercially available that I know of, so I made one. Works better than expected.
The other is a jig for aligning drawer fronts on drawer boxes. Typically I scabbed one together on each site, this should speed things up. Just made it today, will shakedown on Tuesday.
PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Would bee cool to see pictures of those tools.
Would bee cool to see pictures of those tools.
Ooops, brain fade. Imagination only goes so far, huh?
PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
"The other is a jig for aligning drawer fronts on drawer boxes."
I'm having a tough time visualizing how to use this, Peter. Any chance you could explain? Or maybe take a few photos as you use it tomorrow? Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Most cabinets have a consistant overlay on drawer fronts, from top or bottom of drawer box to top or bottom edge of front. Sheesh, that reads like gobeldygook!
Anyway...
Lets say I need 3/4" from bottom of fronts to bottom of drawers. Set sliding fence to 3/4", lay front face down, drawer on top. Center drawer on front, screw on with 2 washer head screws. I almost always put three screws in, but third goes in after I align doors and fronts. If installing hardware, that takes the place of third screw.
Confused yet? Way easier than my explantion. Pic probably says it better. PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Peter,
I figured it out without the pic...
Jims getting old from lugging around a wormdrive...
:)
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
Here is my simple jig for solo wall cabinet hanging. I install base cabinets first, set the jig on my level bases, set up two or three wall cabinets on the jig, make final adjustments and attach the cabinets to the wall.
In this case, I left 1/2" between cabs and soffit and later applied 3/4" cove with a micropinner. The soffit was about 1/2" out of level over 12'. The jig allows easy fine tuning of the cabinets to keep the required space above cabs at 1/2" +/- 1/8".
O.K I've been scared to go out in the garage cause it's so out of control. This afternoon I decided to clean it up. Once I got a hole cleared I remembered that I promised someone in this thread pictures. So there's a small hole to the bench now anyway.
14 is my crown molding jig. Got it off Finehomebuildings online video series.
16 is my 1/4 round trim jig and my coping jig, and my trusty reveal gauge.
I made all these up after seeing them in the mag so they are probably pretty familiar to most. But they are damn handy.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !
I need somebody to help me say it one time!
OOps O.K. NOw for the pictures.
Na na-na-na-na na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na-na na-na-na-na !I need somebody to help me say it one time!
I really like this thread and I've been wanting to post here since it started but my POS camera was on the fritz,
Here's a couple of planes I made when I was an apprentice boatbuilder, and Kudos to anyone who identifies the tool on the bottom right
A hammer????
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
a mallet?
it's not for hitting thingseccept lazy apprentices, but the blood stains are hard to remove
If its not a striking took then it must be a peg.
Does it fit into the drilled holes in the bench and act as some sort of stop?
blue
Hmmmmmm....
Boat building??????....
An anvil for clinch nails???
doesn't look hard enuf...
beer can flattener???
beer can camoflage????
is it involved in caulking planking seams???
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
Geeze yer dumb..it is a tape measure in the upper left..doancha know them other peeple are backwards yet?
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Iam not a poet, but your hat is singularily inadequate"
WHOOOSE YOOOOS CARLIN DUUM???
Mr. T.
There's a steering-wheel in me pants and it's driving me nuts!!!
Iz that a plane adjusting mallet? for tapping in wedges and such? seems kind big though.
a rivet anvil?
paperweight?zak
for striking plugs?
>>"and Kudos to anyone who identifies the tool on the bottom right
It is a hammer made of leather. My dad had one. Where did you get it?
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
Sorry but the head is lignum vitia, and as I have said before it isn't a striking tool. The picture shows the one I made next to one made for the Royal Navy.I'll post the answer with pictures of it in use soon, until then keep guessing. P.s if you want a hide hammer try here: http://www.tandyleather.com/products.asp?dept=65
Edited 4/2/2006 1:04 pm ET by limeyjoiner
"lignum vitia" - isn't that bull's p*nis? If it's not for striking, then it's to absorb shock when something is struck - placed behind the object being struck?All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Common names: lignum vitae, guajacum, guaiac.A evergreen tree, indigenous to the West Indies, growing up to 55 feet tall although it seldom grows taller than 30'.
It has a twisted trunk, opposite oval compound leaves are blue flowers.
The wood is one of the hardest; has several fats and resins that makes it self lubricating and almost impervious to water.
Commonly referred to the NAtalie Wood, it don't float either.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" Iam not a poet, but your hat is singularily inadequate"
Hmm . . . very hard, dense wood cylinder with a handle used in boatbuilding.
Looking at the wear patterns on it, it looks like it's had some lines wrapped around it or slid over it. Must have something to do with rigging.
I give up, but my best guess is something used as a lever to tighten rigging.
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
Kudos philarenewal. (close enough guess) Its proper name is a heaving mallet and it is used to tightly apply wire and string lashings. The wire is wrapped around the head a couple of times and held against the handle,then using the head as a fulcrum pull the handle and the lashing is tightened. I last used it to apply a lashing on my framing hammer handle just under the head to provide some overstrike protection
Edited 4/2/2006 8:54 pm ET by limeyjoiner
Super!
Milkbones can be sent to PO Box 63682, Phila., PA 19147. ;-)
"Let's get crack-a-lackin" --- Adam Carolla
Sorry phila no milkbones this side of the pond. :~)
Edited 4/2/2006 9:11 pm ET by limeyjoiner
No milkbones?????!!!
Maybe we should organize some sort of relief effort.
I'll send you one pronto to get you through the next couple of weeks.
blue
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.
Edited 4/3/2006 6:34 am ET by Gunner
Hey Gunner - You asked for pics of my sawhorse setup a while back. Well, here ya go.I put a shelf on one of the sawhorses so I'd have a place to set my saw when I was where the ground is muddy. I made the other sawhorse an inch shorter so they'd stack easily when I'm not using them. (So it clears the plywood braces on the end)And of course - You can see the 2X4 hangers holding up the 2X6X6' rails.They don't look real nice, as I just used scrap lumber to build 'em. But they work fine.
If you've just met someone, going to a strip club is a great way to break the ice [Kelly Brook]
Nice, looks very handy. Have you considered putting a small bolt up through the bottom of the joist hanger and drilling a mating hole ( oversize to accomodate the nut) in the 2x6?
Edited 4/3/2006 10:19 am ET by rasconc
By putting a bolt in there, I assume you mean some sort of a "pin", so the 2X6 doesn't slide out of the hanger?Not a bad idea, but that's never been a problem. If the sawhorses are stable they don't move around much. And I put enough braces on my sawhorses to make them really stable.
Imagination is more important than knowledge. [Albert Einstein]
That's what I was talking about. One of my pet peeves with the Simpson hgrs is the lack of resistance to horiz. movement now that they have gone to the double shear toenail dedsign. That design helps hold the hanger to the ledger but does very little to hold the joist in position if the application does not get the decking tied to ledger.
Picked up on ample bracing, you should go into the truss business(:-).
Bob
I just hate wobbly sawhorses. Come to think of it, I have stuck a nail or screw into those "double shear" holes once or twice. Maybe when I had 'em set up on uneven ground - Don't really remember.
The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind. [Peter, Paul, and Mary]
Boss, those horses would be wobbly because the legs and tops are all parallell. They simply succumb to any pressure from the side of the horsead bracket because they collapse like any parallelagram would. The basic design of the pre-fab metal sawhorse brackets are flawed.
The idea to brackets to create a grid has some merit for some applications.
Run the number on your truss programs and see how much sturdier the set would be if the legs were splayed 10 -15 degrees.
blue
Splaying the legs would not make them more stable. I used these sawhorses as scaffolding last night, and they have virtually no movement in them.Truss design programs are for designing trusses - Not sawhorses. They aren't some magical program that can do anything you want them to.
Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing. [Theodore Roosevelt]
Boss, from over 30 yrs engineering and use: The end of a horse directly above the bottom of the splayed leg on a horse is more stable. You can stand (or stack material) on the end of the horse and it won't tip over. Lateral movement is nill. Don't know much else.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 4/4/2006 7:42 am ET by calvin
I agree.
Now can you explain WHY to Blue?
There's a new plan under consideration for airline securirty - They're thinking about hiring soccer Moms to be stewardesses
Very cool. I'm glad you posted those cause I had a little different vision. I'm gonna use that on mine. Very nice way to handle large pieces.
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.
Nice horses........But what are the 1X blocks for -- at the bottom of the legs of the one horse with gussets?And what height/width do you find best for your needs?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
If you angle the legs 15 degrees the horses become rock solid. First day of apprentice school we built a handtool box. The next lesson was sawhorses. 15 degrees side to side, 15 degrees front ro back. I don't use mine daily, but I use them often. Light, strong, stable, easy to build, virtually indestructable unless someone cuts through the 2x6 on top.
Great advice, blue. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Flaring out the legs actually makes them weaker, IMHO. Every time you set something on top of the horses you introduce a twisting force in the joint between the top and the legs. That will eventually work the joint loose. I think vertical legs with diagonal braces are far better. I can see a flame war starting over this....
Hunger is the handmaid of genius [Mark Twain]
I would agree that vertical is stronger ( but how strong is enough ?) however splayed is more stable in that you are increasing the footprint. I am sure you can hold up more weight with your legs straight below you but it sure seems more stable if you put your legs out just a little outside your hips. I think that most people who have had horses tip on the long axis probably built them with the top rail extending past the vertical legs.
It does add a degree of difficulty in getting your angles right to splay them though.
Just my opinion,
Not proud of the fact that they did.............
but.
My prime two horses are well over 25 y.o. Back in 90something they flew off the top of my cherokee and landed / slid down the expressway at 65mph. One cutting top came off one, the other remained intact. I still use these today. They are splayed with the tips of the legs directly below the cutting board. You can stand on the tip of the cutting board w/o tipping them over. You can flop sheet goods down and load with as much framing as you can pile on. The trick to keeping them steady is good framing (interlock the splayed legs into the cross rails and screwing rather than nails. These are 1x4 legs, 1/2'' ply triangle braces at the ends/on the legs with 2x rails. Light and sturdy and rated at 65mph. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
What's this term. "Splayed?" Pictures?
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.
Edited 4/4/2006 7:05 pm ET by Gunner
Imagine a deer walking across a frozen river.
The deers legs splay on the ice.
The ideal in horses is the same out, both ways. 15 degrees says the boys, I guess that's right. Somewhere I was thinking 18.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Cal, 18 degrees might be getting too much splay, if you are loading heavily. They also tend to create a bit of a cantilever on the top and if you are standing on the edge, they want to tip.
I stay somewhere under 15 degree. 15 would be my max, but I do a lot of 2" to 24" ratios. I don't know what that degree is but I know how to mark it with my framing square, if I'm in the mood for accuracy. Most times I just cut an angle by eye.
I used to make nice horses, but now I opt for throw-aways. My greatest accomplishment was making a nice set and a new foreman came onto the job when I was a rookie and he put his name on my horses! You could imagine how much respect I showed for a guy like that, when I was young and brash....
blue
I respect your angle. You probably are real right. It's been over 20 yrs since I built a horse. And you know, if I cared how I "look" I would make a new set that were perfect. Somehow I know I should but I just find something else to do, or not do. If I was looking to hire I think that "build a set of horses" might be a start on figuring if the new prospect was all show and no go.
One of these days...........A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Cal, I think my goal would be to get to retirement with those horses of yours. if you built the "perfect" set, you wouldn't want to work on them.
One of the things I do with new employees is have them build a set of horses for themselves. I don't ask them to do it the first day or week, but usually within a couple of weeks I'll get them to make a set. I like to wait that long so they feel comfortable building them in any fashion they want.
I have found the saw building exercixe to be extremely revealing about the character of the person, as well as an excellent indicator of their skill and craftmaship on many levels. The wide variety of styles and quality never ceases to amaze me. These simple tests are so vividly revealing about the inner person that they make a very long lasting impression of how I will use the employee.
When I judge a set of saw horses, I look at them and scrutinize whether the carpenter has a good sense of balace with regards to quality and quantity. I look to see how he vlues the principles of construction and look to see how he places value on functionality, versatality and look to see the quality of his craftsmanship and also look to the aethetics of the tool. Basically, I believe that if a carpenter build an ugly set of horses, he'll build an ugly set of stairs. His eyes won't see the flaws in either.
Amazingly, I form some very quick opinions on many people, with my first sighting of their horses.
I also form some long lasting opinions about how receptive the carpenters are to learning. I let the rookies build their first set of horses and I don't say anything till I see them in action for a few days. Inevitably, the youngsters are very proud of their horses, even though they are generally awful in every regard. At some point in time, I mosey on up and start the critiquing, and the education process. At the end of the first job they are on, I grade the horses. I only allow horses with a B+ to travel. To date, I've cut up every set of horses made by rookies! The important thing though, is the next step...the learning process. I watch and see on the next set if they've absorbed everthing I told them about how to build horses. The very smartest ones don't even bother thinking...they just go study mine and duplicate them. Those are the kind of guys I like to work with.
As you can see, horses are very important to me. They have been since my apprenticehip. Some day, I'll tell a story about my apprenticeship and some saw horses.
blue
well I guess I'm lucky/glad you haven't "read" my horses.
I've heard of lines in the palm, tea leaves and tarot cards. But this horse reading is mystifying.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Cal, I checked some of your horses out when I was at the fest.
The horses pictured tell a story about a man who pays attention to detail and is conservative with the materials. The man wanted a sturdy, stable set of horses, and didn't want too much extra weight. They are also built conservatively low, which make them useful in many more situations than a radically high pair.
Those horses were built to last, and last they did.
blue
Well, thank you. That means you must have seen the higher 35 y.o. set too. I think they might have been under the bbq tent.
I love your take on the height of the ones in the pic. Built conservatively low so this shrimp can get to the end of a 4'sheet with the rockwell.
Blue the horse whisperer.
That holly is one sharp cookie.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Yeah, I don't want my horses red, too. :)
blue, the horse whisperer?
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
william wordsworth longfellow?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin, you're one of the few here who 'gets' me.
I just like to play.
Later.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
####A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Hey! I resemble that remark!
or
Smile when you say that!
LOL
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
he's only tryin' to get a lopsided game of tic-tac-toe goin'.......Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Best out of four?
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
unless he needs a tie breaker....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
You are suppose to check the teeth on a horse, not read it hoofs.
"You are suppose to check the teeth on a horse, not read it hoofs."
Actually, if you check up under the tail.... LOL--------------------------------------------------------
For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
When you cut up a horse, do you leave the head in the rookie's bed?
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I love your idea but...
Depending on the criteria what materials I have on hand and my needs at the moment I build horses differently.
I have built some horses that I knew I was not going to keep and I did not want to take more then a few minutes to build out of scrap I had around on the job site. They were stable strong and lasted longer then I planned but I would not be proud of them as keepers. For one I just shot them together with the nail gun. But they went from scrape to very useable in a few minutes If I asked someone to build a few horses I needed right away and they took half a day to build the perfect set I would not be happy even if they were the best horses ever made. I made a great set out of I-joist cut offs on one job site (That's wooden I-joists)Also since I like to have things that are portable and take up as small a space as possible I find I am using metal folding horses more and more.
Edited 4/11/2008 12:30 pm ET by MFournier
"But they went from scrape to very useable in a few minutes If I asked someone to build a few horses I needed right away and they took half a day to build the perfect set I would not be happy even if they were the best horses ever made."Therein lies the greatest test of all...can the carpenter toss together a keeper set of horses in a few minutes using whatever is handy? Carpentry is normally a balancing act between quantity and quality. Even a piano builder has to set limits or he would never finish one in his lifetime. When the guys in the field are "commissioned" to build a set of saw horses, every aspect of his carpentry acumen is being called upon, whether he knows it or not. Then, in the most cruelest of fate, his work will advertise his skills for the duration of the life-cycle of those horses. Often, those horses will be the only advertising that an individual will offer in terms of individual creativity and accomplishment. Build them well, but build them fast...it's not an easy request and only the best do it best. I will brag that I had a new foreman come on-site years ago and wrote his name on my sawhorses! Back in those days, I actually used tools to mark the angles and selected good looking materials too even if they were "scrap". I used to make them heavier back then too thinking that I needed the carrying capacity. Everything evolves over time though and I learned to recreate those same horses in half the time using half the weight in the structure. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Just opened the "Tools for Home Building" folder to find a thread and came upon this one. Kind of like bumping into an old friend. life is good.I'll eat your peaches, mam. I LOVE peaches!
bump
When you table frame you put all that load on those don't you? If so I would think your right on track.
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.
Gunner, I've put some very serious loads on some very flimsy looking horses. Its amazing how much weight a very simple set of horses can carry. I don't build heavy horses either...I like them to be flyweights that can handle heavyweights.
I've been stacking the table and walls on cinder blocks lately. Frank tended to be too rough lifting the walls and the side pressures kept tumbling the tabels down. !x4 legs stapled to the 2x4 tops don't take lateral pressure that well.
blue
with Gunner you'd have to use a saw horse as an example...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Here you go, the 65 mph pair.
View ImageA great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
O.K. now I see what you mean by splayin. I thought it might be a Ricky Ricardo thing. "Lucy you got a lot of splayin to do."
Mine don't tilt in like yours but I believe in the 15 degree cant. Here's mine. I love these puppies. But I don't lug them from job to job or I would cut down on the weight. I am gonna modify them Boss Hogg style. Nice touch I think.
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.
Looks a bit like my set up...Hitachi chop & Bosch table.
Hope you are as pleased with them (hitachi and bosch) as I.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Edited 4/4/2006 10:00 pm ET by calvin
I'd rather fight than switch.
Gunner, I agree with Calvin, splayed legs that don't project farther than the top is perfect for working off of.
The splayed legs tend to brace each other against the opposing force of the other.
Boss. I was only kidding about using a truss program to do some techical data for horses. My own unscientific experiences prove to me that a splayed set, (splayed both ways) is significantly more stable than un unsplayed one. The loading might be slightly better with unsplayed, but I've never loaded any set to failure so I don't know. I have had unsplayed sets (the rookies always build them this way) fall over under load.
I've put some very, very, very significant loads on stapled 1x 4 splayed legs on 2x4 tops. I don't think I would sacrifice the significant gain in stability to increase the loading from 2000#'s to 2050#'s.
I only started the sawhorse comments in respose to your statement about unstable horses.
blue
I think the first one I built had a pair of legs of each...two straight, two angled...not by design though ;>)
The 1X blocks keep the top sawhorse from rocking back and forth when it's stacked on top of the other one. It was done as an afterthought.
To eat is human, to digest, divine [Mark Twain]
That's about what I guessed.What height do you find most comfortable?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I don't have a favorite height. I've tried different heights on different sets of sawhorses, but haven't settled on any particular one.
Eat a live toad first thing in the morning, and nothing worse can happen to you for the rest of the day.
it is used to tightly apply wire and string lashings.
Reminds me of this girl I used to know.Speak the truth, or make your peace some other way.
I read the answer you supplied, but I think it really is for straighening that MFT it is sitting on or adjusting the guide rail when it gets out of square ;>)
I managed to cut through a hardened screw with my ATF 55 today so I guess I have to use my spare blade and this one sharpened, sigh.
john
I'm a cabinetmaker so I'm not sure how interesting these will be but....
The first is an adjustable-height, rolling workbench. Second is a shop-built slot mortiser specialized for face-frame and door-frame joinery. The third shows how I get dust-collector gate control to a convenient place. This one is on my jointer but I have the same device on other machines. Makes it easier on my failing back.
Terry, can you explain the adj. bench?
thanksA great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Do you mean what does it do? Or how does it work?
How does it lock in the various positions?
You have conquered the "aw ####, too high".
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
It's cranked up & down using 2 lengths of 3/4" threaded rod - one on each side of the bench. So it'll stay put in any position. If you like, I'll try to get a shot of the underside & post later today or maybe tomorrow.
Here's some undercarriage shots of the adjustable bench. Hope it helps.
Thanks Terry. I think that set up is one I'll have to view in person. Next time I'm in Seattle, Blodgett and I will stop by.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Very nice stuff there terryb. That adjustable height table is ingeneous. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Excuse the ignorance Jim. What's a tipi?
Jim's tagline of Tipi, Tipi, Tipi refers to tipifest. more info in the Breaktime Fests folder.
Is the worktable infinitely adjustable, with a screw jack or something, or does it fit into different notches every few inches?
Also, how does the slot mortiser work? I've thought about making one before. Does it use a router and a spiral bit, or do you use a slower speed motor with a chuck holding end mill bits? I've heard advocates of both ways. Also, do you move the workpiece, the table, or the router/motor?
Nice work, I'd like to see more pictures.
zak
Zak, the table adjusts with threaded rod. I'm going to post a picture of the underside as soon as I can get to it. The slot mortiser uses a PC router with a spiral cutter. The router moves & the table stands still. I built it this way because I sometimes have to mortise long pieces. The moveable part has a platform that moves on the x-axis on top of a platform that moves on the y-axis. Movement is via skate bearings running on 1/2" sqare tubing epoxied into a plywood edge. I'll try to get some closeups of the mechanism & post them.
Here are a couple of shots of the back of my slot-mortiser. You should be able to get the gist of it. The skate bearings for the upper platform are behind the plexiglass guards. They keep some of the shavings from getting on the tracks.
Holy mackrel Andy there.
Hey Terry - yesterday you asked about "Tipi". It's short for "Tipifest", this year's annual get together. It's on Long Island at Andy Clifford's house. Third weekend in August. There will likely be well over 100 Breaktimers there this year. You should try to attend - great fun. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Jim, love to hang out with you bad boys - loooong motorcycle ride from Seattle though.
"Seattle"?
Sure seems like there are a lot of folks here from Seattle. We're going to have to try to have a "Who gives a crap if it's raining Fest" one of these years. Or at least a get together next fall when JLCLive! moves to Seattle.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Blodgett will pay for your ticket. He's loaded.
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.
"Blodgett will pay for your ticket. He's loaded."
Yeah, but I'll come down in a couple hours.Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Yeah, but I'll come down in a couple hours.
And gunner will still be ugly.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
HEY! View Image
Wop bop a loo bop a lop bam boom!
hee hee hee hee ....
View Image
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
Sooooo Jim, what's the haps at these fests? Put away some Jim Beam and fire 16d nails at Republicans?
Jeez, I'd kinda like to attend, but not if I'm gonna drink bourbon and get nailed.
"Sooooo Jim, what's the haps at these fests? Put away some Jim Beam and fire 16d nails at Republicans?"
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA...no, but that's a mighty fine suggestion.<bfg> Only problem is, they might shoot back! Mostly we just try to out lie them about how great we were in our (mostly misspent)youth(s). Calvin used to be able to get a few licks in in the horseshoe pits, but the word is out and now noone will play him and Joyce. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
>>>>Calvin used to be able to get a few licks in in the horseshoe pits, but the word is out and now noone will play him and Joyce.<<<<You want to beat Cal at horseshoes, just be my partner.I make him reeeeeeal nervous...;0)
All matter is created in the stars. We are stardust. We are golden.we are... Nuclear waste.
Hey Luka, You're a northwesterner aren't you? Seems to me a few years back you were in Snohomish or Sultan or someplace.
I'm in the mountains outside Index, Wa.It's in my profile.Unlike the profiles of SOME people...;0)
All matter is created in the stars. We are stardust. We are golden.we are... Nuclear waste.
Well, you can't expect EVERYONE to be in the mountains outside Index, can you?Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
Someday...;0)
Nothing can be said so well that it cannot be misunderstood.
I didn't even know about the profile thing. Got one now.
Cool !=0)
We spend zillions on smart bombs.....how about spending zillions on creating smart kids?
~jjwalters
terry,forgive my ignorance, can you point me to where you got the skate bearings? I take it they ride on the two square bars at a 45° angle?
Skate bearings are dirt cheap, precision made and available many places. You can get them anywhere they sell inline skates. My best price, though was on ebay. I got 16 abec 7 bearings for $20 or so. If you're unfamiliar, the abec number is some kind of precision rating. I've seen 3's and 7's. 7's are very high precision. A 5/16" bolt fits the bearing for mounting. The big problem using ball bearings in a woodshop is keeping wood chips off the track. I've been semi-successful but still get a chunk in there once in a while.
You can also buy sealed cartridge bearings used in bike wheels, and used in fractional motors and auto generators. The bike ones were developed from the generator bearings.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
Here's a good deal.http://cgi.ebay.comThese are sealed bearings - you want that.
Built like a true cabinet maker! They look splendid.
I'd have to let you go immediately if you were a rough framer....because I'd be telling you to get back inside and build pianos and cabinets! LOL!
I do like the concept, especially if you intend to sometimes use them as a platform for different power tools, which usually work best at slightly different heights.
I build my rough horses intentionally as low as I'd ever use them, then just layer on 2x4's to get them up when I need them higher.
blue
Exactly. I usually set the table at about 38". But for certain operations it's down at 18" or so. Whatever's easiest on the back.
Here is a finish carpenter's knockdown table, ready for transporting to the next job.
View Image
Edited 4/5/2006 9:02 pm by talkingdog
You got a picture of that assembled?
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.
No, that was just one I saw parked next to somebody's truck.But you can visualize it--slots together like two Xs, viewed from above when assembled on the deck. Then you just lay a sheet of plywood over top and you've got a very stable, quick work table that's easy to transport.
O.K. I gotcha. Handy looking thing.
The opening scene of the movie "Saving Private Ryan" is loosely based on games of dodgeball Chuck Norris played in second grade.