Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 22, 2000 01:54am | #1

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   I think somebody will be along soon to tell you no cause the grooves will catch water and the ply will delaminate. But I've got some like that I put on a little porch 18 years ago and its in good shape. It looks a little dumb though, like somebody didn't know what he was doing.

1. 
   Guest_ | Sep 22, 2000 07:37pm | #2

   *T-1-11 is exterior rated and can be installed in any direction your little heart desires. How it will Look though is another matter. Personally I don't like the looks of it when horizontal. But, structurally it really doesn't matter as long as the spacing and nailing schedules are followed.

2. 
   Tom_Rand | Sep 30, 2000 09:49am | #3

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   Most T1-11 that is available today will have enough voids in the intermediate layers that horizontal alignment will cause so much delamination that the product will fail. You could caulk and paint the T1-11 to improve it's performance, maybe. Check with the supplier to confirm application. Tom

1. 
   Scott_Chadbourne | Oct 01, 2000 04:24am | #4

   *Suggestions:1. Use fir or cedar rather than yellow pine T1-112. Ask for "6-patch" rather than the more commmon 18 patch [indicated under the APA stamp]3. Have you considered eastern white pine, western red cedar or redwood lap sidings as an option? Scott

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   Guest_ | Oct 01, 2000 06:27pm | #5

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   Mr Rand:

   I doubt the accuracy of what you say. Not only does this go counter to my experience. But, if you were correct I don't think the T-1-11 would have the Exterior Stamp, nor would it be rated for sheathing. Perhaps you are using a different product or something that has failed manufacturing inspection.

   Now, as to whether that would be my first choice in this application: Nope. But the guy didn't ask my opinon on that.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 07, 2000 02:06am | #6

   *I need to drill a hole in the sill (approx 8"x8") of a timber framed house for the intake and exit pipes for a gas furnace. The original installer used 2" PVC pipe, which is undersized. How do I drill holes for the required 3" pipe, where there are already holes? The sill is probably oak. Or do I use a Sawz-all and simply square out the hole? I have easy access from the exterior.

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 2000 03:08am | #7

   *Sandra,I'll be the nice guy who politely tells you that you should ask this as an independent question. What you are doing is known to us as "hijacking" the thread, even though I have no doubt that you didn't mean to.There are ways to do this. One way would be to take bondo (auto body filler) and fill the hole with that, let it harden, and then use a standard holesaw to make the larger hole, using the small drill bit as a pilot. Other guys may have different tips too, I know I've seen some on this board.Good luck, wish I was there to help with your timber frame.MD

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   Guest_ | Oct 10, 2000 07:22am | #9

   *Sandra,See if you can get a piece of 2 inch dia. dowel rod.Closet rods are usually 1-3/4, but I think you can get 2 inch also (not sure). Pound the wooden rod into the existing holes, then start over with the correct drill bit. If you can't find 2 inch dowel rod, get the biggest size you can find, and then wedge it in place by jambing wooden door shims around the rod's exterior. As long as the rod is wedged tight, it will allow your new drill bit to center itself and you will be OK.Good luck.Davo.

4. 
   Tom_Trueb | Oct 10, 2000 07:22am | #8

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   hello again. I'm the guy that's doing the storm doors to a new second story porch without the jamb/brickmold stuff. That worked out well with using 1x8 sticking out from the 2x6 framing.
   Now I'm wondering how to side the thing. With it mostly windows, I'm wondering if the t1-11 plywood siding (4" oc grooves) would be more efficiently used horizontally. In either orientation, I plan to rabbit the edges as necessary and line the grooves up. It won't matter between the windows (~9-14") because trim will cover. Any thoughts on the most efficient use of this material? Prolly would do the z-channel thing as needed also for the horizontal joints. She would like a horizontal (lap) look to offset the vertical orientation of the rest of the house. Just hate to throw out most of $40 window-size material. TIA again