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Discussion Forum

Hot water heater

smitch | Posted in General Discussion on November 7, 2014 02:12am

SInce my hot water heater is over 12 years old and now making knocking/gurgling sounds, I’m guessing it’s about to go.
I’ve looked at the home stores for natural gas 40 gal tall heaters in the Philadelphia area and they want about $1100 for installation, permit and removal (that includes cost of the heater about $550).

Is this cost about averge today or are there other (safe) avenues for getting this done with a quality 12 year warranted heater?

Any suggestions, specifics…?

Back when I had this heater replaced the whole thing cost about $250 with installation for a Bradford White.

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  1. User avater
    spclark | Nov 07, 2014 05:23pm | #1

    Have You EVER...

    ... drained the sediment that tends to form at the bottom of water heaters? Most folks don't bother with this procedure but if done maybe once a year it'll improve the longevity of most any residential water heater. The idea is to remove the layer of sediment that precipitates at the bottom, effectively adding a layer of insulation between the burner and the water to be heated, making your water heater work harder than it has to at the same time as overheating the bottom portion of the tank.

    Anyway yes, things have grown more costly over those twelve years. I'm not in your area but where I am no permit is required to swap out water heaters. I put a new (electric) GE 50 gallon into a house I moved into last year but I was in a hurry, bought a unit off the floor at a local Home Depot instead of ordering a more efficient, lighter product (like this one built by Rheem under their Marathon brand:  http://www.rheem.com/product/residential-electric-water-heaters-marathon) for later installation.

    The GE cost something like $375 with a 12-year warranty. Did the installation myself, took about an hour all in all. Needed a hand getting the old one (empty but still heavy) up the basement stairs but then it was off to the local landfill....

    Admittedly gas makes it a little harder what with the flue & all, maybe even trickier if you need / select a direct-vent unit that requires piping in fresh air for combustion and piping out the combustion byproducts. These days that's probably what you want over the older flue-vented technology though as they're more economical to operate.

    You ever consider "on-demand" or tankless heaters? Depending on your needs, budget and water supply quality that may be a better option than a tank heater.

    1. DanH | Nov 07, 2014 07:15pm | #2

      Well, tankless is only a reasonable option if the house is unoccupied for days at a time, or if you really need the space.

      Draining regularly is a good idea, but you need to plan for it -- replace the crummy drain cock with a good one, and have a setup so you can drain the (very hot) water without running it onto the floor or through a hose to the bathroom across the hall.

      A sediment filter on the incoming line helps too, as does a water softener.

      A halfway decent electric will last 30 years if fed soft, non-acid water and drained a couple of times a decade.  Gas not quite as long.

  2. smitch | Nov 08, 2014 10:02pm | #3

    Any understanding of what it's doing?

    There is a pinging sound coming from within. Does anyone know what that is? Is it a compromise of the structure like a leak or maybe just a symptom of excessive sediment since I neglected to drain it regularly? Do  you think it's a good idea to drain it now or will that just accelerate it's demise? I'm thinking it really needs to be replaced, but I may be able to get a couple weeks or more out of it. I don't want it to fail before I get the replacement in place of course. Any more suggestions?

    1. DanH | Nov 09, 2014 06:32am | #4

      The sound is most likely "lime" collected on the heat exchanger and cracking as it expands/contracts with the heat.  It's fairly "normal" for a gas water heater when not fed soft water.

      The life of a gas heater is usually determined by the heat exchanger.  Some rust through rapidly (10 years or less), others (good quality stainless steel) last much longer.  The acidity of the water has some effect on the life.  You also do get tanks rusted through, usually near the boundary of water and sediment, as the sediment increases tank corrosion.

      1. smitch | Nov 09, 2014 12:48pm | #5

        So draining it now: pointless? Risky? Any thoughts.

        1. DanH | Nov 09, 2014 02:41pm | #6

          The biggest danger is that you'll get the drain valve open and not be able to close it again.  (Do remember to put the burner on "pilot" for a gas unit or trip the breaker for an electric unit before you start draining.)

          Also remember that the water coming out of the drain valve is HOT!  Be sure you have a good plan for routing it to a drain (with no splashing) before you start.

          1. smitch | Nov 09, 2014 02:52pm | #7

            I'll have a cap ready if that happens. Shut the inlet valve if necessary. This is probably the end of life for this  heater. I think it must be about 12 or 13 years old. I just don't want to accelerate breakage/leaking - but I may be days to weeks away from need to do replacement. Thanks.

          2. gfretwell | Nov 09, 2014 03:32pm | #8

            A lot really depends on your water quality. When I was in the DC area water heaters lasted pretty much forever (at least the tank part). You could drain one that had not been drained in years and get less than a coffee cup of dirty water with a trace amount of sediment in the bottom. The valve always closed.

            Here in Florida, 10 years is an old water heater and they will have a bucket of crud in the bottom in a year. They are just consummables. I usually start watching the sales about 8 or 9 years in and snatch the first one I see a great deal on. I toss it in the shed, in the box and when I start having problems I just swap it out.

            If you are worried about the valve, just buy a new one and swap it out while you have the heater drained. If I am swapping a valve, I put it on a short 3/4" pipe nipple so I am only fooling with the tank threads once. Then you can hold the pipe and unscrew the valve if you have to do it again later. Use a real boiler valve, not that crappy thing that comes on a new one. (female on both sides with a hose adapter on the out flow)

  3. bathhomeward | Nov 10, 2014 11:38pm | #9

    Water heater

    You can find new water heater at Homeward Bath

    And because I'm new to spamming, I didnt make it a hot link.

    1. DanH | Nov 11, 2014 06:57am | #10

      The water heaters from Homeward Bath are Chinese counterfeits, made with cheap steel where there should be stainless or brass, and they don't meet US safety standards.

  4. User avater
    deadnuts | Nov 11, 2014 07:44am | #11

    couple of thoughts...

    1.Get three quotes from local plumbers to replace your unit. That will give you an average cost for your area.

    2. If your water is already hot, then you don't need to heat it.

    1. User avater
      MarkH | Nov 11, 2014 07:51am | #12

      I like to call them cold water heaters and look at the facial expression on whomever I say that to.

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