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Folks,
Does anyone have experience with using 24 hr. timers to switch a 220v hot water heater off during low demand periods and on during high demand periods?
Any savings on the energy bill by using the timers?
J. Wells
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Folks,
Does anyone have experience with using 24 hr. timers to switch a 220v hot water heater off during low demand periods and on during high demand periods?
Any savings on the energy bill by using the timers?
J. Wells
This time-tested installation method for flangeless windows ensures smooth operation and provides air, water, and vapor control.
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Replies
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I use a timer (from Grainger's), on my water heater , but don't really know what the savings are. However it does make it convenient to shut down when leaving for weekends etc. Actually, I've removed all but one tripper, so it turns off every evening at 10, but requires a manual turn on daily. Easy access makes it hassle free.
*I've put rather a lot of equipment on timers (cleaning up toxic waste sites) and there are several approaches - a few of which an inspector might even approve of. Sounds like Fred's got a line on a purpose built unit - likely the easiest option - maybe he could tell you the phone # or manufacturer and their city from a name plate.You can use a contactor (Grainger's et al) and any little low wattage timer relay to trip the coil on the contactor. Plus enclosure, wiring, tie-in to the water heater. About $150 + $40 + $40 + $10 + $30, respectively. Parts only! And beyond the expertise of some "electricians" - those wire pullers who call themselves electricians.Very cheap way to go, if you don't mind massively downsizing your heater element. It's probably 4,000 to 7,500 watts current. If >4,000 replace with a 4,000 watt element ($8). Hook it up to 120 volts. (Move one wire from hot to neutral in the breaker panel). Half the voltage will pull half the current and half x half = 1/4 the power (wattage). You've now got a 1000-watt 120-volt water heater and any of the beefier lamp timers ($10) will switch that. Some lamp timers are only rated for 300 watts but 1000+watt ones are easy enough to find. The thing will recover slowly, but you're already willing to accept that if you're talking timered operation.The energy savings you will achieve by not heating some of the time (night and mid-day?) would be minisucle. Electric water heater have pretty low losses because they have no flue pipe venting warmed air from the flue (like a fuel-fired heater). Place it on rigid foam and wrap it in a fiberglass blanket and the losses will be even less. And inslulation WILL have a reasonable payback, unlike timed operation. You may see cost savings from timed operation but only if your meter is (or can be converted to) time-of-day rate sensitive. If so, the savings could be as much as halving the cost of hot water.As Fred points, out fuel-fired water heaters are always cheaper to operate and everyone can get propane. Natural gas would be even cheaper, if available.In Germany, there are radio controls on some water heaters so the power company can turn them on and off remotely to adjust their load. Talk about an intergrated ecomony! -David
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Just a point regarding David Thomas' proposal to cut down the voltage to the heater: While it's true that it will only use 1/4 the power, it will have to run 4 times as long to heat a tank of water, thus your savings are nil. Another way of looking at it is that it takes a certain amount of energy (Btu's or watt-hours) to heat a tank of water, doesn't matter how long it takes.
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Our local utility co. will put their timers on FREE,and then take care of ALL water heater repairs ,elements,switchs ,ect. GOOD DEAL,
*I wasn't proposing reducing the element to 1000 watts to save energy, of course. Every kwh is going to put 3,413 BTUs into the water, regardless of the heating rate. The question was how to put a timer on a water heater and the very cheapest UL-rated timers are lamp timers but they are only for 120 volts and about 1000 watts. I can't think of another set-up for less than $20 of parts and potentially less than $10 of parts.By the way, that 3,413 BTU = 1 kwh is a really handy conversion factor in foolishness of this sort. -David
*I don't really believe that a timer will make much difference unless youare in a time-of-day/rate area.If you do need a timer try View ImageThe graphic is linked
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Mike,
Thanks for the colorful link! I also see that Home Depot has a 240v timer in their catalog that would handle the load. Same folks, I belive.
SoCal Edison offers a rate plan for time of year, provided you use more power in winter than summer. As we are in WA summers, I need to chat them up on this and see what the numbers are.
(BTW - found your post and the ensuring thread on overbuilding very interesting. Breaktime is most educational. I now read it first when I log on.
*Steve,I searched the Edison Co. page for any hot HWH tips. Doesn't seem to be an issue with them. I'll try Customer Service and see if they have any freebies.CA has "deregulated" electrical power so everything/one is confused. It's For Our Own Good, so I'm scared. Wonder if there are any freebies left. jww
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Folks,
Does anyone have experience with using 24 hr. timers to switch a 220v hot water heater off during low demand periods and on during high demand periods?
Any savings on the energy bill by using the timers?
J. Wells