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Discussion Forum

house flashing ?

user-162071 | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 7, 2008 04:31am

ok here goes

customer of mine is planningto have new poured concrete and blue stone patio put on the back of house with new gunite pool

my question is what would be the best way to flash house against wall damage  since patio will be agianst some of the wood structure of the house.

I plan to use lead coated copper. i will be replaceing sheathing  on house with cca plywood and then putting water and ice shield and then a sheet of lead coated copper.

After blue stone is installed i will flash against it and reside with a space to let water escape

I am looking into have flashing post formed (not sure if this term is correct)

what do you think

 

 

 

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Replies

  1. RedfordHenry | Mar 07, 2008 06:22am | #1

    I have done countless repairs (some major) to houses that had precast stairs, granite doorsteps, bricks, etc. installed tight to the sheathing or siding.  Some houses as young as 10 yrs old. 

    I'm not just talking about punky sheathing and rotted jambs but totally deteriorated band joists and studs, as well as damaged floors.  All of these problems could have been avoided if the masonry was simply kept off the wood.  An inch or so of clear space, maintained to keep leaf litter and other crud out, is all that is necessary, more is better of course.

    Your efforts sound valiant but I think that putting any masonry structure tight up against a wood framed house is one way to guarantee future work for a carpenter.

    On the otherhand, if you replace the framing with PT, you might get a good 20 or 30 yrs out of it. 

    1. user-162071 | Mar 08, 2008 04:56pm | #8

      well me too but i am really thinking of using the sheet vinal as a water proofing and sheathing. They make a two part glue and sealer for the  joints that would be cut at a thirty degree angle.  I will use big headed s/s screws  and seal them with the same two part chaulk.

      It will safe time and money  lead coated copper is in the 150 range for a 3 by 8 sheet. then i would need cca plywood and water and ice sheild.

      so its a big savings to to mention time. we have a contractor show coming up on tues so i will see hands on the glue and sealer that they use.

      thanks for the  input

  2. User avater
    Jeff_Clarke | Mar 07, 2008 06:32am | #2

    You're not letting them put bluestone around the pool are you?

    Jeff

    1. user-162071 | Mar 07, 2008 03:52pm | #4

      its not my house, its his choose. I only doing the carpentry work .

      Has anyone seen any articles on this

       

      1. User avater
        Jeff_Clarke | Mar 07, 2008 05:57pm | #6

        Just tell him that his feet will burn off from the heat ...

         

        Jeff

        1. user-162071 | Mar 08, 2008 04:48pm | #7

          thats not my problem, thats between him and the designer(LOL)

           

  3. Pelipeth | Mar 07, 2008 01:35pm | #3

    You can also apply peel and stick membrane and I have also used Azek sheet goods. You can bury the stuff.

    1. user-162071 | Mar 07, 2008 03:56pm | #5

      so your saying  you used azek as the sheathing???

      that might be a option in  place of the cca sheathing

      i would suppose i could fingerjoint the seams and seal then i might not have to you the copper or the icesheild.something to think about

       

       

      Edited 3/7/2008 7:59 am ET by not just a carpenter

    2. user-162071 | Mar 08, 2008 04:57pm | #9

      did you apply the peel and stick first and then use the azek

      thats what i was thinking

      1. RedfordHenry | Mar 08, 2008 07:10pm | #10

        If you use the PT plywood (which is a good idea) don't forget to use stainless or hot dipped sheathing nails.  Also, if you are down to the framing, I'd really consider adding some PT to the bottoms of the studs, or at a minimum, using adding some cuprinol or similar biocide to whatever KD framing is in this wall.  I'm assuming the plate is already PT. 

        If you bury all this wall behind bitch, flashing and vinyl, it'll keep out rain/runoff, etc. but will hold whatever moisture gets introduced from inside and/or below. 

      2. Pelipeth | Mar 08, 2008 11:02pm | #11

        I have used the Grace peel & stick membrane and have also used Dibiten torch down roofing, then applied the Azek sheet goods 3/8 or 1/2 inch. SS nails only. Azek has their own brand of PVC glue, water soluable which enables one to be very neat. Have never had a problem. I have also done a 3x5 shower stall in the bead bd. & sheet goods came out great & NO leaks.

  4. Piffin | Mar 09, 2008 12:07am | #12

    I think you have a design problem if there is going to be concrete up against a wood wall surface in any way, even with flashing

     

     

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    1. user-162071 | Mar 09, 2008 03:14am | #13

      i dont think the concrete is going directly up to the building but the bluestone is to be tight up against the house.

      1. user-162071 | Mar 09, 2008 03:16am | #14

        i really am looking for idea's on how to handle this i am sure as you read someone has come across this!!!

        1. fingersandtoes | Mar 10, 2008 02:39am | #15

          It's not that unusual. Think of all the houses built with treated wood foundations, or decks with concrete topping. Treated ply, membrane and flashing. Short of the flashing prematurely failing, what's to go wrong?

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