I have to patch a wall and never used blowout patches.
2 receptacles. And a place where a washer hookup box. Did not meaure it, but guess maybe 4×6
1/2 of it will be covered by a preformed counter top. And the other with tile on the back splash.
Wonder if I can just use a blowout patch on the whole for the washer box.
.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid – Shoe
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid – Shoe
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I don't know what a "blow out" patch is. Here is a link to a video showing how I patch walls.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckkhfzNDykQ
View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
A blow patch is one where you cut the patch about 2" over size. Then
trip the back off the drywall 1" around leaving the front paper stick
out.Then mud it in. There is no backing and the paper that over laps the
edge is the "tape" for the joint.http://drywallstuff.com/how-to-install-patch.htmhttp://noolmusic.com/google_videos/how_to_fix_a_hole_in_drywall_blowout_patch_part_1.php
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William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
yeah, that should work fine for the application described in your initial post. I'd mud the perimeter of the opening first, then put the patch in and mud the tape.View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
A buddy of mine that is a drywaller told me that its called a "California Patch".
Let's get this right. I am a California drywaller.
This type of patch is known as an Okie patch, and sometimes referred to as a Portuguese patch. ; ^ )
Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
Portuguese patch? Huh... very interesting
Large amount of Portuguese families in Northern California, a lot from the Azores. Similar climate attracted them. Most are in the dairy industry or wine out in the Valley.Many are also in the drywall trade, hence the term. Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
I had a building trades class in high school where we built a new house. Each student was assigned a section of drywall to finish to the instructors satisfaction, (usually one wall and part of a cieling, unless you were an ----hole in which you got a closet)
After the instructor was satisfied with your finish, he would come around with an evil grin and ask if you were ready for your "test", then he would smash a hole with a hammer and make you fix it with one of these patches.
As a result, I think most every wall in the house had one of these patches in it!!
I think he also called it a "california patch"
Edited 2/9/2009 8:47 pm ET by LIVEONSAWDUST
I call it a "quick and dirty" patch, but its ok when its going to be behind tile or something, although I don't use the paper face as tape. I bevel the edges, make sure the fit is tight, mud the opening first, squoosh the patch into place tight and flush, and tape (with mesh tape usually) and finish with hot mud.
The problem comes when its used on an open wall area where someone might one day hang a heavy picture, or the like. Then, you really want that patch screwed solidly to a piece of backing.
View Image "...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Edited 2/8/2009 10:21 pm by Huck
It'll work fine Bill.
Be sure to mud up the edge of the patch sheetrock. You want it all to lock in, not just the oversized paper.
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Used this method many times, with good results.
IF IT WAS EASY, EVERYONE COULD DO IT!!!
I don't like blowout patches, but I have used them. I have not used them on a hole as big as you mentioned (4" X 6"). Unless you get a very good fit and mud the edges, any pressure in the middle of the patch will just cause it to fall into the wall a little as the core pulls away from the paper.
It's easy enough to cut a piece of backer, screw it to the drywall above and below the hole and then insert a drywall patch and screw that to the backer. That's what I would do.
If you need to finish in one visit, use 5 minute setting compound. I would probably hit it twice. Once set, you can use a hair dryer to remove most of the moisture so you can sand and paint.
Sorry, Don. I didn't read all the way down before I replied.I think you and I do it about the same way.That doesn't really say anything good for you I'm afraid.Glenn
I think you and I do it about the same way.
That doesn't really say anything good for you I'm afraid.
LOL. Either that or great minds think alike :-)
Not a chance, Don. I know me better than that.Glenn
Actually the washer hole was 7x8.And it is a little on the big side. But I did butter up the edges of the hole and back of the patch. So it got a good squeeze out the back.It did sink in. But I think that it is good mechanically.I used 45 min mud to bed it. Then after it set I used an other coat to help fill it in and blend it out.If this was painted in the middle of the wall it would probably take 2 more coat of light weight to make it disappear.But the blow out patch was perfect for the receptacles box holes.And in one I can going to cut a new hole right on top of the one that I patched. Backing would have been in the way for that.But this is $40,000 rental so it was a good place to practice..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Glad it worked out.
You should give the 5 minute setting compound a try some time.
I have used 5 minute, but it is too fast for me. Specially for something like this.But in this case I had plenty of other stuff while it set such as taking a bath in water tapped in the old washer drain that I was taking out.The run was about 10 ft without a trap or vent. But line dropped down at the washer end and slopped up to the connection with the reset of the drain system.The orginal idea was to cover it up if we ever wanted to go back to a washer at that location. But the more that I looked at it I could see that it was screwed up from the start..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
I have used 5 minute, but it is too fast for me. Specially for something like this.
I think I can understand that... when I started doing this kind of work, I knew about setting compounds, but I would never touch them because I just couldn't imagine taping/spackling under a time constraint.
Now, I keep 5 minute and 20 minute in the van and there are very few repairs that I can't handle with some combination of both. I've played around with shortening the set time by using hot/warm water, but it's a little unpredictable so at most I'll use tepid water.
I never wanted to get good at at drywall work, but because of the kind of work I usually get, I've been forced to become decent at it even though I'm not really all that fast. All it takes is practice. Of course, if you don't really want to get better, I can understand that too. It's not like it's the most highly prized skill.
One thing I've done with small patches a few times is to make the paper edge oversized and then carefully tear it to make a feathered edge. Depends on the texture of the paper, and most will tear in one direction better than the other, but if done right the paper thickness tapers down to essentially nothing, reducing the amount of mud you need to hide the edge.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
> It did sink in.One thing you can do to help control this is to drive a couple of DW screws into the body of the patch to use as handles.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
Bill,
I tried doing the oversize the paper routine once. Don't like it.
What I do is put some plywood rips behind the existing and overlap them to the patch. That gives the patch something to screw to. Put screws in the existing and the patch every 4 inches.
I now have Zano's Butt Taper. If you don't want to get that, I used to taper the edge of the sheetrock slightly. With a plywood backer, if you use a setting compound instead of spackle for the first 1 or 2 coats, you don't need tape. The plywood does the work.
"I now have Zano's Butt Taper."Is that a tool or a medical condition? :)Seriously, what is it?BruceT
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Also look under category of Breaktime fests.
I hear that all the time.http://www.butttaper.comGlenn
There's no real limit to the size of such patches, though I'd guess they get awkward over about 12x12.