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How can I trim existing rafter tails?

| Posted in General Discussion on July 10, 1999 06:06am

*
For a remodel job, we are tapering existing, installed rafter tails (currently standard 2×6 square cut rafter tails, four-foot overhang with T&G above) so the tails will be approximately 2.5 inches in height leading edge and taper to 5.5 inches at the wall of the house.

How can we safely (and easily?) do this?

A Skillsaw seems dangerous and heavy to hold overhead. Is there a way we can use a template? How can I attach a template to the rafter? A router? Again it seems dangerous and we’d have to do two passes (one on each side of the rafter). A handsaw seems to be a possibility but there are over 100 rafters.

Any advice from you who are more experienced than I is appreciated. Thank you.

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Replies

  1. Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 01:57am | #1

    *
    Hi Ted,

    The skilsaw works well for most of them and those that are awkward, a recipricating saw with a heavy blade will do well.

    The real secret is what your standing on. If your able to be on a platform such as a scaffold, you're laughing.

    I like to face the work so that I cut with a skilsaw, right to left, so I would start the cut from the outside and cut towards the house. Everyone has their preferences.

    Again, if you're on something steady, at the right level to work at, it will be much easier and safer.

    Gabe

    1. Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 02:25am | #2

      *Ted,Ditto Gabe.Do not try this off a ladder. A sturdy scaffold with a wide floor will give you the confidence to cut it any way you choose.A skil saw and shoot board won't work because you will have to anchor your shoot board to the piece you're cutting off. Router? No thanks. Handsaw? Too much work, (100 tails). I would either take a 6 1/4 skil saw and free hand the cuts ( standing on said scaffold ) or a sawzall if the cuts don't have to be dead nuts perfect. You will have to finish off the skil saw cuts with a sawzall anyway because your skil saw won't cut up close to the house.My opinion,Ed. Williams

      1. Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 03:50am | #3

        *Good advice from Gabe and ED , I might also cut a peice of 1/4" plywood to the shape I wanted the rafter tail to end up , less the distance from the saw blade to the edge of the base [ usually about 1 1/2" ] and push it tight to the decking and tack it to the tail and run the right side of the saw base against it . Might be faster than laying out and freehanding x 100 . Chuck

        1. Guest_ | Jul 07, 1999 03:53am | #4

          *Assuming your rafters are all the same you should be able to make up a triangular template to guide your circular saw (off the right or narrow side of the shoe). The circular saw, of course, will not cut up to the wall surface so there will still be some hand cutting. The hand cutting will most likely not blend with the cut made by the circular saw so you will have some overhead belt sanding. All this work up close to the finished wall will result in some inadvertant marring. The spot painting will not blend and you will find yourself painting the entire house. Think I would start by asking the architect or designer "how did you think we would do this?" If I happened to be the architect or designer I would ask myself "On second thought, Don't those rafter tails look nice just the way they are?" If I happened to be the architect or designer's significant other I guess I would look into renting scaffolding. I never win those kind of aruments at my house.

  2. Wayne_D._Muck | Jul 07, 1999 08:56am | #5

    *
    Steve,

    I never win those arguments either.

    Wayne

  3. Guest_ | Jul 10, 1999 12:14am | #6

    *
    I would definitly cut a guide and zip screw it to the side of the rafter to save 100 individual layouts.I would also try to have the design modified with the taper ending a few inches back from the wall so the entire cut could be made with a circ. saw.I would make sure everybody understands that a 2 inch rafter tail pretty much means no fascia or gutters. I have never seen 4 ft. overhangs or anything approaching them on anything other than a ranch style house,so staging sounds pretty simple.( or is this 4 ft overhang 30 ft up in the air?

    good Luck,Stephen

    1. Guest_ | Jul 10, 1999 03:29am | #7

      *

      Besides all the good advice about a good working platform, do I hear a jig saw.

      Forget the router!

      Joseph FuscoView Image

      1. Guest_ | Jul 10, 1999 06:06am | #9

        *Joe just beat me to the punch....ditto that.RM

  4. Ted_Wells | Jul 10, 1999 06:06am | #8

    *
    For a remodel job, we are tapering existing, installed rafter tails (currently standard 2x6 square cut rafter tails, four-foot overhang with T&G above) so the tails will be approximately 2.5 inches in height leading edge and taper to 5.5 inches at the wall of the house.

    How can we safely (and easily?) do this?

    A Skillsaw seems dangerous and heavy to hold overhead. Is there a way we can use a template? How can I attach a template to the rafter? A router? Again it seems dangerous and we'd have to do two passes (one on each side of the rafter). A handsaw seems to be a possibility but there are over 100 rafters.

    Any advice from you who are more experienced than I is appreciated. Thank you.

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