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How do I build a shampoo recess ?

BarbaraD | Posted in Construction Techniques on February 26, 2006 06:57am

I know you can build a shower recess (the little cubbyhole for shampoo bottles and soap) instead of purchasing one of the preformed ones, but I can’t find any information on how it’s done.  Obviously, you start by cutting out the size rectangle you want in one of the shower walls (by the way, I’m talking new construction not remodel), and then you cut pieces of cement board to make the four side walls of the box-form.  Then,…??? I don’t know.  Right now we’ve just framed the shower stall area, and soon will be installing the cement board.  I’ve never built a shower before, and was at Home Depot looking at both the Hardie backerboard as well as Wonderboard.  There’s also one called Durock I’m aware of, but I didn’t see any of that at Home Depot. Does it matter which of these products I use for the shower walls?  I have the Schluter Kerdi shower drain and pan kit on the way and so will be using their waterproofing membrane over the cement board walls as well as the inside of the shampoo recess.  So, I think these are all the relevant facts.  Anyone out there who can tell me how to make the shampoo recess?


Edited 2/25/2006 11:02 pm ET by BarbaraD

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  1. BillBrennen | Feb 26, 2006 07:38am | #1

    Hi Barbara,

    I start by setting blocks top and bottom in the selected stud bay. The bottom of your niche has to drain, so the cement board on the bottom needs to be slightly sloped. I put the blocks in square, and shim the back of my sill with some 30# felt to get the slope.

    You probably already know that your cement board all needs to be mesh taped with thinset prior to waterproofing with the Kerdi. Do you know about the John Bridge Tile Forum? It is the best place for detailed help with tile-related queries. Best of luck on your project.

    Bill

  2. ponytl | Feb 26, 2006 08:02am | #2

    in my last 2 showers I did full shelfs.. vs  a recess...   one piece of marble or stone 5" wide  about 48" long across  one side wall @ about 55"  high set @ a slight slope toward the shower...  last one for my wife i did a 10" wide bench/shelf under that @ about  20" off the pan...   works for leg shave'n ect...  

    p

  3. User avater
    EricPaulson | Feb 26, 2006 05:16pm | #3

    You can buy them..........google "shower recess" or "shower seat" and see what comes up. I'll look quickly in my favs.

    [email protected]

     

     

    It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been

     

     

     

  4. butcher | Feb 26, 2006 05:19pm | #4

    I only use these products. great product. Try http://www.innoviscorp.com

  5. User avater
    PearceServices | Feb 26, 2006 05:39pm | #5

    I do not think the extra labor to do this in the field is worth it. You can buy preformed niches from any legitimate tile distributor for less than $50, and save a couple hours labor, and a day on your schedule.

    you just screw them into the blocking and durock and your done.

  6. sully13 | Feb 26, 2006 09:13pm | #6

    BarbaraD

    Check out the DukLiner preformed, recessed modules.  Different shapes and sizes and the results are good.  These just screw to the framing before the Kerdi fabric goes on. 

    When you install the fabric system don't forget your corner pieces.  That is the thing that most guys in the field forget about.  Watch the video and follow the instructions to a T.  We normally take the fabric up to about a 6 ft height.

     I prefer the Hardiboard over the cement board because it does not hold water.  No water, no mold.

    1. Mikieravs | Feb 26, 2006 11:47pm | #7

      Maybe I'm mistaken, but doesn't the pan membrane go in first, and then the cement board installed over it?  Also, concerning tile backerboard and shower recessed cubbies, I really recommend talking to your tile contactor (unless you're doing it yourself) about everything before doing anything final.  Tile guys have different preferences concerning what sort of materials they like to work with so if you make him or her happy, it's more likely that you'll end up with a better final product. 

    2. Wango1 | Feb 27, 2006 12:13am | #8

      I'm concrened when you say Hardi won't hold water, but Durock does. They both do! They are water impervious (unaffected by water), but are NOT waterproof! Both will hold water.

      In the instance of this cubby, try using a waterproofer like CBP's Redguard. It looks like Pepto when it goes on, but dries red and is a thin rubber coating. It would be used before the thinset to waterproof the cubby. HD has it with the tile setting materials. 

      1. sully13 | Feb 27, 2006 01:44am | #11

        Chill out, don't get your shorts all bunched up.  Poor choice of words.  Hardi is not totally impervious to water absorbtion but it has a lower  rate than durock.  It also passes two astm tests for non-sustainability of mold growth with perfect scores,  I don't know of any of the cement boards which do.  If you have any info please share.

        sully

        1. Wango1 | Feb 28, 2006 03:37am | #14

          I'm not sure about what you meant by your last post. But regardless of opinion, what I mean by impervious is unaffected by the passing of water thru it. These materials will not breakdown, delaminate, or fail. Perhaps your definition is the rate at which the water penetrates and that is a differant matter.

          It is hard to gauge tone of voice in an e-mail, so go easy on the attitude.

    3. BarbaraD | Feb 27, 2006 07:19am | #12

      Sully, can you check the spelling on "DukLiner" please?   I googled it and nothing came up.  Thanks

      BarbaraD

      1. sully13 | Feb 27, 2006 05:39pm | #13

        BarbaraD

        Try these websites:

        http://www.curtisresources.com

        http://www.quickshelf.net

        sully

  7. Wango1 | Feb 27, 2006 12:28am | #9

    I know you said you didn't want to buy one, but try looking at http://www.artistictile.net/store/betterbench.html for a niche.

  8. AJinNZ | Feb 27, 2006 01:16am | #10

    My personal choice is not to have such a recess at all. They are just a water trap waiting to fail.

     

    The tiled showers I have worked with have either had a chromed 'basket' sorta thing attached to the wall ( with sealant in/on the screw holes ) or ( best ) a glass shelf.

     

    The glass here comes either with 2 screw on cleats that are pretty small, or the glass is attached with clear sealant. With the correct sealant the only way that glass is coming off is to cut it.

     

    Whatever it was.................I didnt do it.

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