Replies

1. 
   DanH | Aug 23, 2004 07:43pm | #1

   Flipping upside down would be purely an issue of what sort of saw is used for the 45-degree cut, and how that affects splintering/tear-out. You obviously want any splintering to be on the back.

   Once it's cut on a 45 (and assuming you're talking about coping an inside corner) you can then use a straight saw (power or hand) to cut the straight part of the cope (cutting right along the edge where the 45-degree cut meets the front surface of the molding. Then complete the cut (the curved part) with a coping saw.

   You don't have to do it this way, though -- you can make the entire cut with a coping saw. I kind of prefer it this way, since it makes it easier to "undercut" the cope cut. But then I'm not a pro and am usually more interested in results than speed.

1. 
   Sasquatch | Aug 23, 2004 09:18pm | #2

   I try not to do too much trim work professionally; however, when I was doing some work for Habitat, I had more time to work slowly and accurately.  I found the coping to be tricky, probably because I do not do it all the time.  I would keep a coping saw and my Dremel tool in a small compartment under my SCMS so I could use it with a small sanding drum.  Most of the back cut could be done with the saw and then fine-tuned with the Dremel.Les Barrett Quality Construction

1. 
   DanH | Aug 23, 2004 09:32pm | #3

   Yeah, I've used a round wood file for the same purpose.

2. 
   bruceb | Aug 23, 2004 09:42pm | #4

      Skip all the nonsesense and try this. Cut the 45 on the Baseboard. Then take pencil and trace the hard edge of the cut. Next take place the  base on a table or bench with the face up. Take a GOOD Jig saw with a fine reverse tooth blade and set the table on the 45 part of the cut ( the part you want to cut out). Cope away. It will take some time and practice but it's worth it.  By resting the Jigsaw table on the part you plan to cut away it sets you up for the perfect back cut angle. After about a day I was coping 7 1/4 Poplar at three times the speed of everyone else and the copes were staion grade tight.

   I always thought I should Write an article with pictures on some of the tricks i've learned along the way when it comes to cutting and coping base. But I'm just to D#mn lazy.

3. 
   mike4244 | Aug 23, 2004 10:38pm | #5

   Your friend is correct. He first cuts the inside miter, then flips the board upside down and end for end. Next he cuts the straight portion of the joint with the mitersaw. He probably sets the swing angle past zero on the saw so the cut is relieved.The result is a cut that is undercut but square with the first miter cut. Then he copes the ogee at the top. If the straight portion of the base does not fit perfectly you then file, rasp, sand or whatever til it fits. This is the reson for the undercut, makes it easier to fit the straight portion. I usually undercut about 15 degrees, more if the base is high.

   If you understand this, be careful when cutting the straight undercut. The cut only goes down as far as the ogee, no further. Make cut, raise saw out of cut while still running. If you release switch before raising out of cut, many saws have a tendency to jerk a bit. This could inadvertently cut into the ogee. You need a mitersaw, or you could do it by hand with a decent miter box.A little practice and you'll be fine.

   mike

1. 
   crrepitus | Aug 23, 2004 10:50pm | #6

   I am still kind of lost.  I guess i will just ask him to stop by and show me.  But thanks for the help.