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How Do I Flash This Chimney?

andybuildz | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 24, 2006 02:09am

http://images.google.com/images?q=tbn:w7pDN2F7K6fJUM:http://www1.hellocrazy.com/reserved/cards/200505061254500.hellocrazy-flasher.gif

Creation arises, is sustained for awhile, and then things change. That’s the dance.

HTTP://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

                                   

 

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  1. seeyou | Oct 24, 2006 02:17am | #1

    Is that real stone or fake?

    If it's real, it should have been thru flashed as it was built. 2nd best and not always successful is cutting a kerf parrallel to the roof several inches above the roof. I normally use a 2x4 standing up as a guide for my grinder with a diamond wheel. We normally use a 7" grinder for something this irregular. Bend your flashing piece with long (2"+-) on the top. Scribe it to fit.

    If it's fake, it should have been flashed before the fake stone was installed.

     

    "Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.

    http://grantlogan.net/

    1. Piffin | Oct 24, 2006 04:13am | #2

      "If it's fake, it should have been flashed before the fake stone was installed."how is it we both got the impression this is fake?
      I was thinking it would be easier to tear of the face to flash this than to try cutting in, assuming it to be fake. 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      1. Stilletto | Oct 24, 2006 04:21am | #3

        It looks fake to me,  the tell tale sign is the corner stones.  How they alternate short side-long side as you go up the chimney. 

        Ben knock the stones off and stepflash it.  Be sure everything above it is in good shape as well.  Cap and mortar joints do not have cracks or gaps.  Cultured stone sucks up water something awful. 

          

         

        1. Piffin | Oct 24, 2006 05:00am | #4

          and dry it in with a membrane OVER the steps before letting them replace the stone facade 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. Stilletto | Oct 24, 2006 01:22pm | #5

            Agreed on the membrane,  then wire lath to mortar  the stones back onto the chimney. 

             

  2. Stilletto | Oct 24, 2006 01:45pm | #6

    After the job is done reseal the entire chimney,  the sealer is sold at any masonary store.  It goes on with a pump sprayer.  The sprayer makes quick work of the job. 

    THey sell sealers that will darken the mortar joints and stone,  so be sure to buy the right kind. 

     

     

    1. Piffin | Oct 24, 2006 02:02pm | #7

      You have mason Ary stores there? 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      1. Stilletto | Oct 24, 2006 10:08pm | #8

        Yes sir we do,  they carry all sorts of goodies for masons. 

        Trowels, floats, levels, and supplies for their job. 

        Really nice places to deal with,  Bosker Brick in our area is a good one.   

         

        1. Piffin | Oct 25, 2006 12:53am | #9

          I was pointing out a common error. The term is Masonry, not masonary 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. Stilletto | Oct 25, 2006 01:00am | #10

            What are you going to call me next?  A plumber?  :)    

             

          2. User avater
            IMERC | Oct 25, 2006 01:19am | #11

            roofer.. 

             

            Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

            WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

            Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

          3. Stilletto | Oct 25, 2006 01:37am | #13

            Yes I am,  a shingle technician.   :) 

            I just landed a 1200 sq. roof,  nothing like laying shingles in December. 

              

             

          4. seeyou | Oct 25, 2006 02:12am | #14

            >>>>nothing like laying shingles in December. Better than not eating in December............... 

            "Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.

            http://grantlogan.net/

          5. Stilletto | Oct 25, 2006 03:07am | #15

            Thats the way I look at it.   I just wish they could have stayed on schedule and been ready 6 months ago. 

            I talked them out of 3-tabs,  and lots of wide open runs so it should be a nice easy one.   Just hate shoveling snow to put paper and I&W on. 

              

             

          6. woody1777 | Oct 25, 2006 01:09pm | #16

            y'know, a roofer is just a framer...... with the brains knocked out.  =)

          7. seeyou | Oct 25, 2006 01:19pm | #17

            >>>>>>>>>>>a roofer is just a framer...... with the brains knocked out. Come over here and say that and I'll turn you into a roofer, jackasss. 

            "Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.

            http://grantlogan.net/

          8. woody1777 | Oct 26, 2006 04:41am | #18

            Easy hoss, I'm a roofer.

            This =) is a smiley face, it is used to denote humor or sarcasm or tongue in cheek-ism . It was used in my post to communicate a less than serious point of view. That said, most of the other roofers I know................ =)

            Nice web site by the way. (no smiley here, i am serious this time)

            Edited 10/25/2006 9:43 pm ET by woody1777

          9. seeyou | Oct 26, 2006 12:01pm | #20

            Sorry - I'm a little touchy. One of my daughter's friend's dad recently made a comment like that in her presence - he didn't know what I do. Cheers. 

            "Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.

            http://grantlogan.net/

          10. Geoffrey | Oct 27, 2006 08:13am | #21

            I am a bit surprised at the lack of knowledge regarding proper flashing techniques for a chimney. Step-flashing goes under the roof shingles and is fastened to the roof deck, NOT the chimney or masonry in any way (meaning no caulking). The step flashing can be Aluminum or galvinized. The outer flashing-the one you actually see-is called counter-flashing and is attached to the chimney and NOT to the roof in any way (no caulking or sealents). It laps over the step-flashing and should not be cut into the stone itself but only into the mortar joints. The counter-flashing should be either lead, copper, or copper-coated lead, for flexibility and durability. Mortar will eat away Aluminum rather quickly and Al. is not malleable, like lead. The lead should be let into the mortar joints about 1/2"- 3/4" with a reverse "c" shape at the top of the piece, thentapped gently into place and held with small bits of lead wedges, then covered with mortar. This flashing should also be stepped according to the size of the lead pieces you have available always starting at the lower front face of the chimney and working up the two sides to the high side and the cricket (if there is one).

                                                                                                                Geoff  

             

          11. seeyou | Oct 27, 2006 10:41am | #22

            Yeah yeah yeah - all that's right if it's a true brick chimney. This is a thin stone veneer on a wooden chase. Completely different animal. Needs to be treated as siding. 

            "Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.

            http://grantlogan.net/

          12. Piffin | Oct 28, 2006 10:39pm | #25

            now that we all know how to flash a chimney, what else is there in life 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          13. Geoffrey | Oct 28, 2006 10:41pm | #26

            Hi seeyou, So what's different about it that what I said doesn't apply? Creating a long "kerf" parallel to the roof surface isn't exactly a good practice! Counterflashing in a stepped fashion affords much better protection against water intrusion. Help me out here, what would you do differently?

                                                                                       Geoff  

          14. seeyou | Oct 29, 2006 01:37am | #27

            >>>>>>>>>>>Help me out here, what would you do differently?I already told you.In this case, it's fake stone veneer, so the same rules don't apply. If this was a real stone chimney, the stones are too tall and irregular to make countering as you advise as effective as kerfing, IMHO. If the stones weren't as tall as they are here, and the joints were more regular, I might agree with you more. FYI, my company installs over a mile of flashing a year and I've been at it for over 20 years. We specialize in restoration type projects. 

            "Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.

            http://grantlogan.net/

          15. Hazlett | Oct 27, 2006 12:40pm | #23

             Geoff,

             you might want to reconsider your choice of step flashing there.

             I don't think you are gonna want to mix aluminum or galvanized step---in contact with  lead,copper, or lead coate copper----especially in a wet enviornment.

            stephen

          16. Geoffrey | Oct 28, 2006 10:33pm | #24

            Hi Haz,

              You do bring up a good point but my experience is that the Al. step does not react w/ the lead flashing, and typically you're replaceing the step every time you reroof, or at least you should,whereas the lead is designed to be re-used several times before being replaced.

                                            Geoff

          17. Piffin | Oct 26, 2006 08:35am | #19

            You wouldn't hurt an old man woody?
            He's been around since 1777and since he's a wroofer, he must already have his brains knocked out;') 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  3. Chris1959 | Oct 25, 2006 01:30am | #12

    Ben

    What you have is stone not a glue on product or fake (the thickness at the corners tells me this)

    Someone had suggested to cut a groove into the stone using a 2 x 4 as a guide, then flash into the groove, down the face and over the shingles. This will work as I have used this method a few times myself, but you are still depending on sealant where flashing meets shingles. A heavy guage (28 or heavier) galvanized material is best. Some installers will use aluminum which expands and contracts to much to be used as a roof flashing.

    If you are not a mason or feel up to it another (proper way) is to have stone taken down to below roof level then reinstalled with proper galv. step flashings as the stone is layed. Flashed properly with a heavy guage galv. flashing this system will outlast 3 asphalt roofs. This is an expensive but permanent fix, and as always budgets dictate.

    hope this helpful

    Chris

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