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Joe,
Great picture (have seen your others too).
Are these yours or from a trim book? I am looking for an illustrated guide to different moulding configs.
Planning on redoing triim in my house and installing wainscotting on walls and up stairs. Looking for good source with pictures.. Any ideas??
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John,
In the future, for this or other problems, sharpen your chisels and planes with a japanese water stone, 8000 grit.
If you absolutely had to chamfer in place, a chisel would be all you need. And, if the chisel is sharpened correctly, no sanding.
It will be the investment that changes your skill level instantly.
Hope this helps.
*I agree with Allan its not that big a deal to take off the base ,just pull your nail through the back of your trim with vise grips or dikes .Else you will mess up your trim .Start from scratch.Patching drywall is easy to .I like to use the Durorock easy sand 45 mix just what you need .Or get some one time spackling is probably all you need if your carefulgo for it
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I have installed 1"x6" pine as baseboard material. Now that some of the boards are on the wall (admittedly the result of poor planning and inexperience), how do I match the thickness of the baseboards to the thickness of the door casing. I can chamfer the boards I have not yet installed, but is there a tool or a way to do that with the boards on the wall? If not a simple chamfer, then any other suggestions? I have been looking at the hand held Dremel tools, but I'm not sure it will do what I need to do. HELP !!!
*How about a plinth block? Use a piece of 5/4 X 4 X 6 or 7 inches long pine vertically - butt to base and set casing on top? I'd probably roundover the top front edge with a router.
*John,It sounds to me that you've installed the casing allready and it's not 1x.Bill and Joe have the best solution but you'll have to remove the casing or cut it in place,which I think might be beyond your skills,so think about removal.Trying to chamfer the 1x6 with a Dremel tool might not give you the clean crisp look you'd want.You could use a compound mitre saw or a 12" chop saw to cut a bevel on the 1x6 that is'nt installed yet.Vince
*Joe, I love this board,I spend all day with block plane stuffed in the tool belt and never gave it a thought. But John might have a tough time with it on the end grain sharp or not.Vince
*John, I think you can trim the casing in place to accept the plinth blocks: Use one of those Japanese flat saws, or a cross-cut hand saw. Make a "false" plinth block of 2x material one saw kerf shorter than the plinth block to be used (follow Bill and Joe's suggestions for sizing and reveal). Use the false plinth as a guide to make your saw cut level and true ... i.e., slide the saw along it to keep the blade perpendicular to the casing and at the right height off the floor. This is similar to the way we hand-trim casings when adding thicknesses to finished floors, and it goes well if you are careful not to tear into the jamb or wall. You can do it, and with the plinths, you'll have a great appearance.Best wishes, Steve
*I have nailed up the baseboard . I have not nailed up the casing. If I could modify your suggestion and essentially make a guide for a small flat saw to hold it at the correct angle, I think I could trim off the corner allright. Sound OK?
*Give it a try, John. You'll want to find some way to hold or clamp your guide securely so the chamfer you cut will remain true. Good luck, Steve
*John,since you have'nt installed the casing would you consider using 1x for the casing? If not then try Joe's block plane(sharp)you can do this with the base still atached to the wall.Remember to make your chamfer end at the thickness of your casing.Vince
*Thanks all!! This is the first time I have looked at "Breaktime" and I am very surprised and impressed with the responses you all have sent. It's great to have a resource like this, especially for us newcomers to remodeling, etc.
*I agree Joe. That will definitely be the way to go. Lucky for me, I only have one area that is the problem, so I'll avoid repeating this mistake and chalk it up to a good learning experience. Thanks again.
*John, Respectfully, dont be ridiculous.Take the base off and start over. If you are worried about damage to drywall or base, then learn to remove the base without doing damage. This is a very basic part of this kind of work. You can get your drywall taping knife behind the base, and against an area of the drywall that wont show. You can also use your nail-set to countersink the nails.Hopefully, you used a minimum of nails, strategically aimed into studs. That base should peel off.Once you have it off, mill it down to be a 1/4" less thick than your casings.I respectfully suggest to you that this early in your efforts, it is very dangerous to be aquiring the bad habit of fudging.Please, learn to do the job correctly. It really is worth the effort.Please.
*Joe,Great picture (have seen your others too).Are these yours or from a trim book? I am looking for an illustrated guide to different moulding configs.Planning on redoing triim in my house and installing wainscotting on walls and up stairs. Looking for good source with pictures.. Any ideas??
*John,1 How did you install baseb beforecase?2 Experiment with scrap till you discover what will do the job.3 Next time the case goes up before the base goes down and like all construction think ahead to the final layers when starting the first,Good luck,Jack : )
*Alan, Alan, Alan,What are we to think?Your post simply makes little if no sense at all.Do you really think you know what you are talking about?Respectfully,Jack : )And John let us know how you make out with this project!
*John, You have received some very clever tips to solve your problem. However; since you said that you have not put in your casings and you do not want to use plinth blocks, I think you should follow Alan's suggestion. Despite your fears, it will not be a big deal to remove your baseboard. Whenever you can, start prying at the door openings. Use a drywall knife or thin piece of wood to protect the wall. The base will not come off hard. The best way to get good joints is to to install the casings first anyway. Mark the location of each piece on the back, or end grain since you will be planing them. Rent or borrow a planer, and plane them to 1/2". You may have to sand off some snipe from each end, since they are already cut to length. Install your casings then your baseboard. Good Luck.
*Beautiful picture, Joe. Is this one of your jobs?Sure looks good.
*Thanks, Kyle Z.I think if John planes the back side of the 1x6 base, he wont have to deal with the snipes. Maybe a little extra caulk on the gap at top of base.Hey, I just realized, a 1x6. Something should be done to detail the top edge.A chamfer or a radius would be the most simple, I think. What does the casing look like?
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If you're that reluctant to start over, or to consider the addition of a plinth block, then ditch the electricity and use your hands.
A rasp or nicely sharpened chisel to rough shape. No tools? Then start with some course-grit sandpaper on a backing block and work your way through grits until you get the shape you need. The casing isn't installed so it shouldn't get in your way.
Just a few, do it by hand. Perfect replication may not be neccessary. For a housefull, rip 'em off and start over. Not a big deal once you consign yourself to doing it.
Good Luck.