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How do I replace a shower valve assembly

MBaybut | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on August 25, 2006 05:46am

Hi,
I want to replace an old shower valve assembly. I plan on cutting an access panel in the closet wall that backs on to the shower valve. What’s the procedure to remove the old and install the new.
Thanks,
Mike

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  1. apiersma | Aug 25, 2006 05:49am | #1

    Do you know how to solder copper pipe? This is a tough job to learn that skill on in my opinion. But it can be done.

    1. MBaybut | Aug 25, 2006 02:06pm | #2

      Thank you,
      Yes I can.
      Mike

  2. BoJangles | Aug 25, 2006 02:41pm | #3

    I guess that would depend on how large an access area you need to provide.  If you are replacing a similar valve, and the shower head and tub spout are run with copper, you only need about a foot or so of access.  The new valve can then be soldered in to the existing pipes.

    If you need to run new pipe and anchor the shower head and tub spout, you will need a full height access panel and can do all of the soldering outside the enclosure and then just slip the whole assembly into place.

    If you have just a showerhead, replacement in the enclosure will be much easier.

    As the other poster said,  this is no place to learn how to solder if you're not very experienced.   Good Luck!

    1. MBaybut | Aug 25, 2006 03:16pm | #4

      Thank you,
      I was unsure on how to go about slipping the new valve into position being that you have the shower head at top of the valve and the supply lines coming from below.
      Mike

      1. VTNorm | Aug 25, 2006 05:59pm | #5

        Be careful about soldering to the valve assembly. On some units you have to remove all the guts before applying heat and then reassemble afterwards.

        -Norm

      2. BillBrennen | Aug 25, 2006 06:48pm | #6

        Use a repair coupling, one without a stop in the middle. It will let you reconnect the shower head pipe after all your lower stuff is assembled with regular couplings. Just be real careful that the repair coupling is centerd on the joint before and during soldering.Bill

        1. MBaybut | Aug 25, 2006 07:09pm | #7

          Thanks All,
          I went and took another look at the thing and I kinda fell in love with the old taps and spout, plus it looks like it would be a bear to remove. They really look chic, if I can clean all the rust and lime off them. I'll go ahead and see if I can replace the washers and change out the cast iron pipe to the spout. The rust stains appear to eminate from there. The rest of the works is copper. Hopefully I'll save myself a ton of grief and a few bob.
          Mike

          1. piko | Aug 25, 2006 07:15pm | #8

            and a few bob - aha.Well, you might even look at getting the fittings re-chromed once they're cleaned...only cost a coupla quid.All the best...

            To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

             

          2. BUIC | Aug 25, 2006 11:14pm | #9

              If you do decide to try it, be very aware how easy it is to start a fire in that situation, sweating copper next to some very dry framing.

              A heat shield under the copper and a fire extinguisher at your feet is the way to go...Buic 

              

  3. captain14 | Aug 25, 2006 11:17pm | #10

    Finehomebuilding actually had a story about that subject this past winter. You should be able to look that up in the magzine for reference.

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