Replies

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Apr 02, 2006 07:55am | #1

   Can you turn it upside down so that the 10" rail is at the top, and then cut what you need off the top?

2. 
   philarenewal | Apr 02, 2006 08:03am | #2

   One thing to consider is that if you change the proportion of the stiles and rails it will look strange.

   Given the existing dimensions, you'll either have to take the door apart to cut down the panel and its trim, or get a door that is a closer fit.

    

   "Let's get crack-a-lackin"  --- Adam Carolla

3. 
   Sphere | Apr 02, 2006 08:23am | #3

   No. You don't seem to have any leeway, without destroying said door. You will continue to shop and locate the viable alternative.

   Often 'salvage' is close to perfect, but 'close' is defined with judicious labour.

   Ad infinitum: make a new house look like a century past, is in it self one daunting task, I commend your endeavours.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   " Iam not a poet, but your hat is singularily inadequate"

4. 
   constantin | Apr 02, 2006 04:06pm | #4

   Here is what we did when we moved doors from floor to floor in our home. Our house came with doors but the door heights change 6" downward every time you come up a floor.

   Since the doors downstairs were of beautiful quality we salvaged them by taking them apart, shortening the panels, mullions, and stiles, and then putting the doors back together again. Any skilled carpenter can do this if given the time and the result will be great. I would not attempt this on my own, as I do not have the skills and patience to do the job right.

   I would not cut the rails because the door will look wrong, particularly if it's off by 10".

   
   

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   Edited 4/2/2006 9:07 am ET by Constantin

5. 
   firedude | Apr 02, 2006 04:20pm | #5

   should be easier to relocate the door knobs rather than rebuild the doors - cut appropriate amounts off the top and bottom to maintain proportions, then cut the lock mortise to move the lock (should be able to use either a jigsaw or a small hand saw to extend the hole, make a series of cuts, then use a 1/2 to 3/4 chisel to clean it up) - since the knob only needs a 1/2 inch hole, it can be hidden with the plate, use some scrap to fill the space for the lock - that should do it - good luck

6. 
   TomT226 | Apr 02, 2006 04:22pm | #6

   Is it a "raised" panel, or just a flat panel?  The door probably has M&T joints at the stile and rail joints.  If you disassable the door and cut down the stiles, you'll have to cut new mortises at one end of the stiles, and they are pretty deep.  Try to take it apart, strip it, and take it to a cab shop with your dimensions.  Any good shop could do the mortises & tenons quickly and for less than what you would pay for a good stain-grade all-wood door.

    

7. 
   sledgehammer | Apr 02, 2006 06:04pm | #7

   If you can get it into my mothers washing machine.... she can shrink it.

8. 
   jdowney | Apr 02, 2006 06:50pm | #8

   You need to take it apart first, which may be very difficult if its glued and the glue is still holding. Once (if) it is taken apart, you can evaluate your options. If the joints are doweled you can just re-drill them where you want the rail to go and cut the extra off the stiles (and panel of course). If its a mortise and tenon door, you can look on the outside edge of the stile for the end of the tenon and the wedges (if the door is old enough). This type, in theory anyway, should not be glued as the wedges and pins hold it all together. You can get the mortises re-cut by a well equiped workshop, but you may have a hard time finding someone willing to do it. I've done these with a drill and chisel too, but its fairly tricky to keep the mortise straight and still not get it too big for the tenon. I'd say moving the rail is the way to go, as if you cut too much off, the door might fall apart (like if you cut off so much that all the dowels are in the part that is removed). It might be easiest to find the right size door, or have one made.

   Good luck with it,
   John

9. 
   mbdyer | Apr 02, 2006 07:11pm | #9

   Cut down a different door. If you just saw it down, the cut rail(s) will have lost too much meat to hold together and the joints will likely fail. I wouldn't cut more than three inches off a door (1 1/2" per end) without severe reservations and a void on my guarantee. If you take it apart and remortise, strip and reassemble you nearly should just make your own, a router to do the edges and some hand chisel work for the joints. Best bet is to keep hunting for a closer match. If you can't find one in your style, you can mimic by applying molding to a flat slab door. Distress the door, prime the moldings, distress them, cut and apply with glue and brads, finish coat of paint. That is if distressing is what you're looking for.

   Would a board and batten style door, from tongue and groove stock say, be out of place? Not hard to make, just basic tools (a hand saw and chisel, hammer, glue and nails at min.) Perhaps whoever is doing the finish carpentry on the home would be willing to do it, an extra of course but shouldn't be too much really, lumber and a half a day's work for a pro.

   
   

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   Edited 4/2/2006 12:12 pm ET by mbdyer

1. 
   mbdyer | Apr 02, 2006 07:22pm | #10

   I had a second thought, if you can not find a door close enough to fit and you want a paneled door to match the decor. You could make a built up door. Start with a flat slab, be it another door or make one by glueing to layers of hardwood ply together (birch if painting or staining, oak is an option as well). Now apply 1/2" boards to the face with glue and brads, first the two long verticals then however many horizontals are appropiate. Fill in the "panels" with ogee molding around the perimeter. A days work, maybe one and a half not counting finish work. I've done similar for doorways with clipped holes (five sides rather than a nice rectangle) in attic renovations. FHB had an article a year or two back where a nice entry door, craftsman style I think, was made this way.

10. 
    skip555 | Apr 02, 2006 11:36pm | #11

    you might want to take a look at Gary Katz's book "the doorhanger's handbook"

    he discuss's the pitfalls of door shorting in there as I recall .

11. 
    mike4244 | Apr 02, 2006 11:46pm | #12

    I would saw thru the stiles,separating the stiles from the rails and panel. Cut the stiles to length,consider where the knob will be. The panel can be installed two ways. Simplest way is with a molding on each side. Harder way is too install the panel back in the grooves.The dado will have to be deepened,the door width will shrink the width of the saw cuts.The rails can be connected to the stiles with dowels or a loose tenon.

    mike

1. 
   BarbaraD | Apr 03, 2006 04:00am | #13

   Mike, I believe I like your solution best of all.  Thanks.  And thanks to all at Breaktime for a good discussion.