Replies

1. 
   SunnySlopes | Sep 22, 2003 01:25am | #1

   I only read the title and went directly to the pics.  I was asking myself  "what the yeck is going on in the head of these framers?"  then I read the text. 

   "One measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions"
2. 
   Qtrmeg | Sep 22, 2003 01:36am | #2

   You're not really happy where you work, are you?

3. 
   Snort | Sep 22, 2003 01:41am | #3

   Napalm?

   EliphIno!

1. 
   MisterT | Sep 22, 2003 01:49pm | #10

   ROOOOAAARR!!!!Mr T

   Do not try this at home!

   I am an Experienced Professional!

4. 
   RW | Sep 22, 2003 02:53am | #4

   Holy cow. Have you considered fragging?

   "The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb "      lyrics by Roger Waters

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Sep 22, 2003 04:15am | #5

   Not to be TOO critical, but.............

   Maybe your framing crew should pool some of their beer money and buy a book on framing, preferably one with nice, clear pictures.

2. 
   IMERC | Sep 22, 2003 05:44am | #6

   Shalll we let out some recipies and formulas??? 

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

5. 
   FastEddie1 | Sep 22, 2003 05:53am | #7

   It looks like they didn't use 1/2" ply to fill it out to the stud depth.  Is that common there?

   Do it right, or do it twice.

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Sep 22, 2003 06:10am | #8

   t..  we like a lot of insulation , so whenever i get the chance we make box headers glue-nailed  with plywood..

   here's a sample wall..

    and a pic. of a visiting fireman from fl.Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   briankeith | Sep 22, 2003 07:47pm | #12

   Hi Mike,

   Changing the subject.......

   What have you got there?

   Braces with turnbuckles for adjustment for plumbing the walls?

   BrianView Image

1. 
   MikeSmith | Sep 23, 2003 01:06am | #16

   yes.. got them at a concrete supply house.. they're usually used for bracing commercial formworkMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

6. 
   Framer | Sep 22, 2003 01:41pm | #9

   Alas Boss finds a 4th set of plans that he has had for 4 MONTHS!!!!!

   WITH the proper openings on them!!!!

   I've been there and done that but not because the GC or Builder didn't have the right plans but because rough openings weren't correct or homeowner changed there mind.

   It's the boss's fault for not having the right plans so that the headers could have been set at the right height from the start. The guys who framed it did nothing wrong. They were given 4 sets of plans and the 4th one was the right one. Everyone makes mistakes but it's obviuos the boss had alot on his mind to make one like that.

   When ever we frame a house or addition with walls above 8' we always put the bottom of the header at the rough opening height unless the cripples above the header turn out to be less then 4". To nail a 2-3" block is useless. We will then nail the header right to the bottom of the top plates and fill the bottom in to the correct rough opening.

   There's been some projects where we have a specified sized structural header that when we layout the RO for the windows and doors the bottom of the header is to low by an inch or so because the tops of the windows have to line up exactly with the top of a French Door. What we do is eliminate the bottom plate of the two top plates and make sure there's no seam above the header.

   Sometimes when you have a circle top window or a window with a transom above it we have to put flush headers in and nail the joists on hangers because the windows are to high and there's no allowance for a header.

   The best thing do do whenever there's a problem if you know about it up front first with a window or door height is to put the headers all the way up to the top plates and you wont have to worry about ripping headers out and youy can continue framing because you need those headers in for the beams above.

   On larger openings it's alway better to keep the headers at the proper header height, of coarse if you know the right header height.

   When I fill in the bottom like you did in your picture that I will attach, I always double up the bottom 2x4 or 2x6. It's stronger and gives you better nailer for interior casings. The jobs that I've been on in the last year or so all the casings are at least 4-4-1/2". With that we add an extra king stud.

   Joe Carola

   
7. 
   andybuildz | Sep 22, 2003 06:26pm | #11

   Quadtriple plates under the header.WOW!

   Am I missing something here?

   Be well

              andy

   True compassion arises out of the plane of consciousness where I "am" you.

   http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

8. 
   joeh | Sep 22, 2003 07:57pm | #13

   I'm awarding the prize to picture number 1.

   I'm sure the drywall folks will give it a prize also.

   Joe H

9. 
   GoldenWreckedAngle | Sep 22, 2003 08:06pm | #14

   Mr. T,

   In this scenario, the place where I'd put that header would not sit well with your boss.

   Kevin Halliburton

   "I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity."  - I.M. Pei -

1. 
   MisterT | Sep 23, 2003 12:39am | #15

   And my boss would not sit well after!!!Mr T

   Do not try this at home!

   I am an Experienced Professional!

10. 
    CombatRescue | Sep 24, 2003 05:53am | #17

    A few suggestions,

    Your cripple or jack studs should go uninterrupted from the bottom plate to the header.  In my area (Florida), two jack studs are required for headers, but we get hurricanes here.  Breaking the cripple/jacks with framing for the top or bottom of the opening weakens the structure. 

    Be consistent with your header placement.  I know in this case there were "issues" with the job, but consistency will make life easier for everyone.  I personally prefer to use box headers placed right below the top plate, but that's me.  Whatever you choose, try to be consistent.  I hope none of the other trades need to run stuff across that corner with the two headers at differenty heights (picture "headers2x3") - or need to attach light fixtures, etc.