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c'mon Blue, we're waiting.
*Heat rebar with a torch...hit it fast
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It's NOT a wood chisel. Any cold chisel will cut soft iron without dulling. Joe
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Why? Rebar is made from scrap and it can be hard or soft. I cut it with a 7" composition metal cutting blade in my circular saw. $3 - $4 item. Fast. Have used a Sawzall at times but much slower and on occasion I have found the rebar so hard it eats the blades. Rebar will break if it is cut half way through. Assume that if you hit it hard enough long enough with a cold chisel you can induce enough stress to make it break when bent (or maybe even beat through). Pack a lunch. For big jobs involving a lot of bending I rent a rebar tool that bend and cuts.
*Use the side of the blade as your working edge, and not the sharp bevel.
*George! you stole my guess. I'm with George on this one.Pete Draganic
*Start with a dull chisel!Blue
*And they give you MilkBones for that?
*I don't know! ask ken.Blue
*Personally, I don't have a clue as to how you could cut 3/4" rebar with a chisel. However, after reading this discussion, I would recommend the following to the Milkbone Distribution Committee:Big Johnson: 1 Milkbone for forcing us to find a solution.George W. Carpenter: 2 Milkbonnes for best solution
*This is a zero milkbones answer, but I actually saw it done:A piece of 1/2" rebar was not at all centered in a concrete pier and had to be removed. My friend Mike took a chisel an quickly chipped the concrete away from the rebar a bit, leaving a little 1" deep 'cup' around the rebar. He filled this 'cup' with Pepsi, and topped it up during break, and before he left, for three days in a row.On the 4th day, ~2ft of straight rebar slid out with ease. I always wondered about Pepsi after that...(It's true!)
*Recommended to the Milkbone Distribution Committee: 3 Milkbones to RichardB for sharing this with the rest of us. Pepsi, never leave home without it.
*So what does Pepsi do to teeth? Never mind.How about squirting the rebar with liquid nitrogen, then striking it sharply with the chisel?
*Lay the chiselon a hard surface, lay the rebar across the chisel, smack the rebar with a big motherin' hammer adjacent to the chisel. If you do it right, the rebar should break. If you do it wrong, you may be picking the chisel out of your crotch. Wear safety glasses! Or better yet, get the dumbest one on your crew to do it!
*First visit a mine that uses explosives in the form of sticks. Tape one stick tightly to the re-bar with medium density electrical tape - preferably red to alert others to the dangers at hand. Stand behind a 3/4" piece of plywood (you see people blasting boxes all around them on TV) and using a long handled hammer such as Blue would regularly use framing, hit the chisel squarely after first letting go to place your hand and arm (as required by OSHA) behind the barrier. The re-bar will be parted, and the tape theoretically will direct all forces inwards so the chisel, while it may not fall in the vicnity of the rebar will be unharmed.Dennis
*Now Dennis you could be onto something here. The only problem I forsee is getting the timing right in order to get your hand and arm back behind the barrier given that the detonating speed gelegnite is in the vicinity of 5,000 metres/sec.
*Bend it back and forth a couple times......works for me.Brian
*No problem. Just use one of Blue's crew. They hammer much faster than that or he sends them packing.Dennis
*Correction Dennis: I only use a 16" hammer, and the new boys don't even know how to nail. They use air!Blue
*that the same one you use for finishing Blue?
*I used to have a nice wooden handled finish hammer. I have no idea where it went, nor do I care.Since I own a Senco finishing nailer, I rarely pound anything. I shoot, or staple everything, and if it won't work, I screw it. Yes, I now finish with a roughing hammer!Sorry!But, I never leave hammer marks anymore!Blue
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use the sharp end of the chisel as a screw driver to turn up the pressure regulater on the oxy-acet tank.....sorry...just had to throw that one in.