Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 15, 2002 01:19am | #1

   I'll kick out a section drawing. Hold on...

   Excellence is its own reward!
2. 
   Piffin | Sep 15, 2002 02:08am | #2

   so, you run a scab of 3/4" x 3-1/2" furring along top of the wall to the soffit. Then cut the cedars to the bottom of it. Then it becomes a shim and nailer for you to apply your good frieze board. The frieze can also have a scotia or other molding to dress it up.

   It didn't take all that time to draw it - I stopped for dinner too!

   Excellence is its own reward!

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/14/2002 7:12:30 PM ET by piffin

   
1. 
   SMXSteve | Sep 15, 2002 03:29am | #3

   Thanks Piffin, I get the idea. Takes a pro to figure it out!

   Thanks again,Steve

2. 
   Framer | Sep 15, 2002 05:19pm | #4

   Piffin,

   What program are you using to make your drawings?

   Thank You

   Joe Carola

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 15, 2002 05:38pm | #5

   SoftplanExcellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Framer | Sep 15, 2002 06:28pm | #6

   Piffin,

   Thank You, that was fast.

   Can this program give you roof framing calculations?

   For example if I were frame an Irregular Roof with a 8/12 pitch main roof & 12/12 pitch sides and I punch in the width and length of the house.

   Would this program tell you.

   The pitch, length and cheek cuts of the Irregular Hip/Val.

   The run of the side pitch.

   The length of the jack rafters for both pitches.

   Offset from the corner of the hip and inside corner of the valley.

   The list goes on, but I'm just trying to get an idea, I've seen some guys mention AutoCAD. I don't know the difference between the two, I know you can do 3d with AutoCad. Can you do it with Softplan?

   When I'm framing I've found it easier and more understanding to everyone when I draw on a piece of plywood to explain the way the rafters are going, how the fascias and soffits are going...........

   What you drew above was perfect, now he nows exactly what to do.

   Everybody jokes about me drawing all over the place but they all understand, thats why if someone asks me a questiion, some things take to long to type or you just can't explain it good enough to help that person. A drawing says it all.

   Respond when you get a chance.

   Thank You.

   Joe Carola. 

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 15, 2002 10:13pm | #7

   Yes, it will do 3D work.

   No, It won't figure rafter cuts. With Softlist, it will give a list of material if you set it up right. It will tell me that I need , for instance, four 9' rafters, four 1o'4" rafters, two 11'8" rafters etc. or set to tell me that I need x# linial feet of 2x8 total. It helps with estimating cost but counts on the framing carpenter to know what to do on site.Excellence is its own reward!

3. 
   PenobscotMan | Oct 30, 2013 12:40pm | #8

   Finishing shingles at gable

   Hi Piffin -- came across this old posting of yours.  I'm about to reach the soffit on s gable end, and didn't plan ahead!  Looking at other cedar shingle jobs on the island -- it looks as if they just butt the cut ends of the shingles up against a bit of 1X4 trim under the soffit.  I like your approach, but the shim will bring the frieze board proud of the corner boards which are already in place.  I guess I could take them down and replace.

   It's cold this morning and I'm trying to visualize the cutting of the individual shingles. Tell me I don't have to climb down the ladder, go to the table saw, and cut each one - one at a time!

   Added -- I've decided to shim out with 3/4 (same as corner boards), then wrap the friexe boards over and around the corners.  I do beleive that the ends of the shingles need to be under something (although in truth they are pretty exposed under windo sills).

1. 
   Piffin | Nov 08, 2013 11:37am | #9

   howdy

   I don't like that detail of tight butt to the shingle board or fascia. It relies too much on caulk and paint to keep water out. I do a repair nearly every year related to water intrusion from that.

   To cut the shingles I find the pitch, select out some wide cedars and precut a bunch of them from narro corner up. Then I lay ( install) them from the gable rake in to wards the center. That way I always start with a zero point going bigger. Secoind shingle to it I can cut that narrow tip angle easy and close with my knife

   I have not been here in years it seems but a notification pulled me back this morning and I am home suffering a malady so you found me