Replies

1. 
   UncleDunc | May 28, 2002 07:38pm | #1

   If the sides are straight but not parallel, adjust the column until you get the same reading on opposite sides. If the sides are curved, make up a fitting ring to clamp around the narrowest part of the column. make the OD the same as the widest part of the column and use the level between the ring and the widest part.

2. 
   BillHartmann | May 28, 2002 07:43pm | #2

   You need to untaper it.

   Cuts some gage blocks that you can temporary attach to the columns that are the reverse of the taper. Then you have a plumb surface to work with.

   The other way is to maker reference lines on the floor and ceiling at the center point. Then mark measure out from there the diameter of the bottom and the top. Then just aline the posts with the marks.

3. 
   observer | May 28, 2002 07:44pm | #3

   As long as you know diameters of top and bottom, you can use spacers to bring a plumb line one inch off the column base and parallel to the central axis of the column.

   Alternatively, you could use the difference in top and bottom diameter and the height of the column to calculate the taper and work out what thickness spacer to attach to one end of a four foot level to line up the level to the central axis.

4. 
   milescity | May 29, 2002 01:38am | #4

   The trick I was taught by an old time utility pole guy was to use a plumb bob on a string.  I don't know how tall your poles are, but on tall stuff a good eye and a plumb bob work well.  Align the string with the center of the pole/column from a way back and you can sight them fairly close, then go to the spacers, blocks and levels.

5. 
   joeh | May 29, 2002 02:17am | #5

   Are you planning to stand the columns and then put the whatever on top? If so tack a scrap of ply on top, If you make it a bit larger than the base you can hang a pair of plumb bobs on it and level it, or same size ply and use a level with a straight edge. Joe H

   
   

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   Edited 5/28/2002 7:18:26 PM ET by JoeH

6. 
   fireball | May 29, 2002 03:32am | #6

   Randal,

   I installed 100 ft. light poles last summer that slid over 26' tapered pre-cast bases that were set into the ground.They came with a 4 ft. level with a compensating wedge attached.Just figure out the taper,if it's uniform,and tweak your level to match.

1. 
   4Lorn1 | May 29, 2002 04:57am | #7

   If it was super critical or you were doing lots of them and you know the taper the temporary adding of blocks to get a plumb surface would be the way. Then a 4' level with an extension would tell you what you need.

   With an unknown or variable taper, not unlikely with custom or old work, I would use an old time technique. Old timer would step back a goodly distance and hold a watch chain, tradition has it that a gold watch chain worked best, at arms length as a reference. By use of the eyeball and the reference along with directions to your helper to move the column and repeating the process from 2 locations roughly 90 degrees apart the column can be set correctly. 

   The watch chain works far better than any level in that the chain will always remain plumb without having to watch the bubble. This also adds to the mystique of a job as you can get remarkably accurate results seemingly from thin air. You can also quickly check a helpers work for plumb from a distance with a chain.

   A cheap gold plated chain with fine links works well and costs about $10. I use one that I confiscated from a helper during morning safety checks removing jewelry. Rings and chains are a hazard on a job site. This helper walked off the job and never came back for his chain or paycheck. It almost makes up for the work I had to redo.

1. 
   RGreene111 | May 29, 2002 05:05am | #11

   Thanks,

   Randal

2. 
   PhillGiles | May 29, 2002 08:35am | #15

   Variation on this is a plumb-bob hanging from a crook (or a step-ladder in a pinch)..

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

1. 
   4Lorn1 | May 29, 2002 08:54am | #16

   Exactly.

   Kind of neat seeing an old timer standing 40' back with his fist held at arms length thumb extended horizontally. You can't see the watch chain dangling from the thumb. He stands in one spot for several minutes looking like the stereotype artist sizing up a scene.

   He stuff the chain into a pocket and informs an incredulous worker that his conduit run is not plumb. The electrician steps back and can't see the tilt. It is only when he uses a 4' level does the error show. He shakes his head and corrects the problem amazed at the near supernatural accuracy of the old timer's eye. The old man chuckles and heads for the trailer his reputation intact.

1. 
   MisterT | May 29, 2002 12:56pm | #17

   You need to hang your plumb-bob in the center of the column.

   Thats why they are hollow.

   TLayers

   Onions

   Have

   Layers,

   Carpenters

   Have

   Layers

2. 
   TommyB12 | May 29, 2002 04:59am | #8

   A good technique is to plumb the centerline, then measure for the location of the diameter of the column top and bottom.  Assuming you have a base and a capital, you can locate those as well.

   I find it's generally inefficient to install any type of column with a level on the side of it and tapping it back and forth.  Its a lot easier to locate the position of the column, that way you only have to check it once.Tom

1. 
   RGreene111 | May 29, 2002 05:07am | #12

   Thanks,

   Randal

3. 
   RGreene111 | May 29, 2002 05:03am | #9

   Thanks,

   Randal

1. 
   Gearhead61 | May 29, 2002 05:22am | #13

   This would be a good opportunity to purchase a digital level. I have a 4' Smart Level and would be lost with out it. I think it was about 120 bucks. You just use it like a regular level and once you find the number that holds constant all the way around the collum, the the rest will go fast. It's also easy to recalibrate if it gets banged around or dropped.

1. 
   RGreene111 | May 29, 2002 05:35am | #14

   Thanks,

   Randal

4. 
   RGreene111 | May 29, 2002 05:05am | #10

   Thanks,

   Randal

7. 
   TommyC | May 29, 2002 01:48pm | #18

   Randal

   Last year I had to reset 14 columns on a porch I rebuild

   I determined the difference between the top and bottom diameter of the column, That is the taper.Cut a block that size. Attach the block to a real straight plumb stick on one end and use your 4' level with it. It was fast and accurate. Hope this helps.

   What your mind can dream of our hands can create.

   Thomas

8. 
   tjcarcht | May 29, 2002 04:34pm | #19

   Randal - Columns are not normally tapered the full height, depending on what order they are based upon.  Ask the manufacturer.  Proper entasis, at least in Roman-based orders, calls for the first 1/3 of the shaft to have parallel sides - if this is true you can easily plumb with a level on the lower part of the shaft.

   T. Jeffery Clarke

   Quidvis Recte Factum Quamvis Humile Praeclarum

   
   

   
   

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   Edited 5/29/2002 9:42:17 AM ET by Jeff Clarke

9. 
   KCPLG | May 30, 2002 05:08am | #20

   You're all wrong, wrong I say.

   Water connection and drain waste and vent and its plumbed. Of course this was to complicated for you karbinders.

   LOL