How do you use the compound cut feature?
jimblodgett
| Posted in Tools for Home Building on
I have an old Makita 14″ miter box and have been looking seriously at the sliders available nowdays. So the other day I’m thinking about the compound miter boxes that DON’T slide, and I’ll be danged if I can think of how I’d use that compound feature in the non sliders. What cuts do you guys make with them?
Brinkmann for president in ’04
Replies
Jim,
Are you talking about powered compound miter saws (aka chop saws), or am I missing the point here? ;)
Ragnar
Yeah, that's the tool, Ragner. You use one? Geez, two days later someone finally can tell me what they use that compund feature for. I was beginning to wonder.
Brinkmann for president in '04
Jim, I use mine for little things like out-of square trim.
Doing baseboards on old houses I can set the saw for compounds and trim so there is almost no caulking.
Same thing with face frames on bookshelves and the like.
Now, if every house were plumb, level and square ......
At my age, my fingers & knees arrive at work an hour after I do.
Aaron the Handyman
Vancouver, Canada
Jim,
First, let me explain my own terminology. On a chopsaw, I refer to the primary angle, and the secondary (a.ka. bevel angle). Any chopsaw has a primary angle, whereas a compound saw has both, allowing you to execute a cut that requires two angles to describe it geometrically.
To be honest, I don't use the secondary angle feature as often as you might think. I have a 12" saw, so the majority of stock can mitered without ever needing to adjust the secondary angle.
The only time I need to use the secondary angle is when I'm cutting something that is too large to be cut while standing up against the fence. For example, a piece of 1x8 baseboard.
A 12" saw will bevel a 1x8 just fine.
So, to answer your question in general (finally!), I'd say that a non-sliding compound miter saw will handle any trim you can throw at it -- up to a given size. I also have a slider, but it's not often that I'm making finish cuts on anything bigger than 1x8. 1x12 stair stringers and big box beams are the only things that come immediately to mind.
Ragnar
my DeWalk CMS..non-slider...cuts a wider(taller) board laying flat than I can stand up and fit under the blade.
Also...like said before.....outta square trim and such.
I don't know how I'd get along without the less used compound angle.
Jeff
now...I gotta confess that I was just looking at a clearance Delta while killing time in Sears.....small single chop..not compound.....for $80. Weighted only 30 LBS or so......might run back out and get it....I'd love to have that for basic trim that's up a set of stairs or three!
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
BTW..the DeWalt CMS.....maybe no.705?....12in..might have the same cut cap as your 14 check into it.
I'd go for the newer DeWalt with the motor angled up and more outta the way if buying another real one now....not a play one like the $80 Delta.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
Thanks, guys. Not much call for beveled 1 x 8 trim in these parts, glad I skipped that tool and waited for the sliders. Might not buy one of them, either, but I sure am tempted. That Makita 10" double bevel sure has my eye. I'd take a good hard look at the Dewalt 10" if I could find one, but I'm not buying a 12 incher - already own several real nice 10" crosscut blades and don't really see the advantage of a 12" slider over a 10". Made that mistake when starting out, with 9" table saw, 10" radial arm saw, and 14" miter box. Now I have a small fortune tied up in nice blades because I can't interchange them. Last thing I need is ANOTHER size. Thanks for all the info, though.Brinkmann for president in '04
Jim, most people commenting here have mentioned trim, cornice moulding, and the like for house building. I don't do that kind of work, but we furniture makers can use such tools for various wee polyhedra, such as pyramid and hopper type structures. Also they're handy for cutting oddball angled bits and pieces that go into the structure of a piece of furniture, and around the structure.
Where they come in very useful over a table saw is being able to mitre accurately in both directions whilst retaining the bevel (tilt of the blade) at the same time still adequately supporting both the piece required and the offcut. With a table saw, you sometimes run out of adequate support. Having said that, I nearly always try and do any such jobs on my sliding table saw in preference to my chop saw. The protractors are accurate enough that I can set both requisite angles to within less than a 1/4°, which is particularly not the case with the bevel setting of the chop saw without using a preset adjustable bevel gauge-- an additional couple of steps in the job. I use a DeWalt 705. Slainte.Some stuff I've made.
Jim,
Think of the sliders as a somewhat safer type of radial Arm Saw.
That being said I have a Dewalt 708 12" dual that has been ok but I recently used a friends 10" Makita LS1013 that was a much smoother saw. ( I like your reasoning about the 10 " blades )
Another point here is that both of these saws push the definition of portable power tools to the limit. They are heavy and awkward. My jobsite saw is an Elu PS 174 8 1/2 " single compound slider that is a very comfortable 1 hand carry. It will cut 10" + @ 90 Degs.On An Island By The SEA
Jim,
The only big advantage of the 12" saws is that they will cut a 4x4 or a newell post in one swipe.
But you can do that with your 14" so stick with the 10".
I got the Hitachi DSCM 10" for fathers day.
Cuts nice have not used it a whole lot yet But I like it so far.
Good price too!
Mr TDo not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
All the saws will cut a 4x4 if you flip the woodOn An Island By The SEA
I played with the Hitachi at JLC Live last week and it seemed fine. The controls weren't quite as intuitive as the Makita, but fine nonetheless. The only complaint I had with it was the same as my complaint with the Makita...non ergonomic handle design.
I'll tell you what, I hear guys badmouth DeWalt tools every day, but one thing they put a lot of thought into is ergonomics. Like that handle on their sliders and compound miters saws, those things are sweet - they just feel right.
The brand new Bosch has a rotating handle that you can set up any way you want, plus preset detent override. But they don't make that model in 10" yet. The rep told me that show was the first public showing of that saw. Sweet, but I'm sticking to my guns about this 10" thing...I think.
Jim,
I have the Makita 10" slider and the guy I work with has the Hitachi 10" slider. Both are excellent saws. The only complaint I have on the Hitachi is the bevel gauge is somewhat hidden by the saw body, making it difficult to see what degree your at.
I like the Makita, but that's just my opinion.
Good luck
I also (like a lot of folks) have the Dewalt 705 CMS, one of the best $300 I've ever spent. I don't use the bevel that much. The most common 'compound' cut that I make is back-beveling my trim so it fits tight on the face- and even then its easier to use thin shims under my stock when cutting than to reach back and twirl that big ol' knob!`
Ken Hill
Oh yeah- A buddy at work bought the Harbor Freight 10" SCMS, a Hitachi rip-off. Holy smokes, what a total piece of sh*t!!!!!! Told him to take it back and get a refund, else I would toss it in the dumpster for him. What a waste of $100!
Ken Hill
I've heard the logic of same size blades before....
but I put a different type tooth on my my different type saws.....
so I doubt you're out as much as ya think you are.
Get what ever size slider ya want.....you'll end getting that one it's own special blade in the end anyways.....
I'd have skipped over the CMS in favor of a slider if I could have too.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
The hitachi 10' slider is sweet, only problem is crown, make a fence (higher). Build a 8' table to set in in (no rollers) and you can frame and trim anything. Best $500 I spent. good spending
The compound is great for cutting trim like already mentioned when you need a little bevel and miter to make it fit just right. But the best application for me is on crown mould.
A feature that I doubted its usefulness is a double bevel feature. Now that I have a saw with it, I wouldn't buy another without.
Allmost never use compound miters. Rarely use the bevel, either.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927
Has anyone ever tried the 12" general ?
http://www.general.ca/product/inter/50700an.html