how end flashing for shed roof that starts from wall?
I am adding an addition. It is a room that is behind the middle of the back of the two story house. It has a shed roof that angles up and meets the existing second story about a third of the way up the second story.
Main part of the flashing at the joint between the new roof and the old second story siding seems correct. From outside going in on the wall I have Siding, Flashing, sheathing (no wrap on old part) and on the roof it is flashing, shingles, paper, sheathing.
The angle flashing was inserted into a slot cut into the old siding, and slid up behind the siding. Where the bottom angles out, the flashing is over the shingles. All’s fine so far.
My question is how should the ends of the cut be handled. Where the slot (cut into the siding) ends, the flashing is coming down and out like everywhere else along the joint, but there is nothing special at the ends. It seems like any wind could push some water sideways into the line between the vertical cut at the end of the slot and the abutting vertical piece of flashing. How should the seam at the left and right end of the roof/siding line be protected?
Replies
The answer
is to remove enough siding from the existing building to completely tie the new flashing into the existing wall. You have a combination of inside wall corners and roof-to-wall flashing that need to be installed together. The lack of wrap on the existing is a weakness. People try to do this stuff without removing any existing siding and it's the wrong way to do it IMO.
Pictures added
David:
Thanks for your reply. I had a hard time explaining my problem without pictures. Now that they are added, it might make more sense. I am not sure if I understand your comment. Are you saying I should remove (or at lease pull the bottom out a little) the uncut board of siding that is next above the one with the slot cut in it and put in a piece of flashing that goes from under that uncut board all the way down past the slot cut?
Looks like all you can do at this point is goober it up with Geocel
Wouldn't hurt
to paint up the cut siding. Would hate to see that fail b/4 the caulk.
The past 2 FHB articles come to mind, one where rubber flashing is used (before siding or finish is installed) to flash tricky spot like this. In your case, you may want to do this. Remove the flashing you have and some of the roofing at the corners. Use rubber flashing to cover the ends where 3 surfaces meet. Next step is to make 2 part flashing. Bottom course will cover the rubber flashing and the joint. Top course is removeable and held to the siding with minimum number of stainless screw. The top course could be slipped under the next-up siding or installed like chimney flashing, that is, using a straight edge a slot is cut into the siding into which a bent edge of the flashing goes into. Then the slot would be caulked and painted.
It would look the best if at least the top flashing is bent on a break with the ends and the edges reinforced.
Slot can be cut with a saw but finish the end cut with router bit or if you just want to use the saw, cut equal distance on both ends so that caulk mark would be the same and balanced. Hope it helps.