Replies

1. 
   HeavyDuty | Jul 23, 2002 06:21am | #1

   What are you fastening the sheet to? Tiles? Painter dry wall?

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jul 23, 2002 07:53am | #6

   Thanks, all.  

   Behind the stainless is drywall.

   I don't understand the comment about a painted wall not looking as flat as a metal wall.   I expect the metal to bridge small roughness in the wall.  The stainless is brushed, so it is not highly reflective.  A shiny chrome backsplash might show the stud-to-stud non-flatness, but the brushed surface shouldn't, right?

1. 
   CloudHidden | Jul 23, 2002 03:39pm | #7

   I used sub-floor adhesive for a 8" x 8' piece of ss be/c that's what I had here. Worked great against backer board.

   The brushed will be quite reflective, too. But given that it will reflect the faucet, pots, dishes, soap dispenser or whatever else is in front of it, plus with cabinets or appliances in front you're less likely to see it from the kind of acute angle that highlights unevenness, unless the backer is really bad, I doubt anyone would see it telegraphing through the ss.

2. 
   dcstory | Jul 23, 2002 06:31am | #2

   I'm about to do the same with a piece of zinc behind a sink . I intend to bed the zinc so the it wraps a piece of 3/4" plywood using an adhesive to holt the center to the backer and allowing the rest of the sheet to expand and contact. Using a brake I am bending the sides to wrap the edges and mitering the corners. The corners will be soldered on mine but you should be able to find someone with a MIG welder to do the same on stainless.

3. 
   Luka | Jul 23, 2002 06:35am | #3

   Zinc roofing nails.

   Every 6 inches.

   In a tilted diamond pattern. Across the entire surface, top to bottom.

   : )

   Oh wait, you wanted a GOOD solution.

   hehehe

   Quittin' Time

4. 
   xMikeSmith | Jul 23, 2002 06:40am | #4

   use mirror mastic & jamb sticks to hold it in place until the mastic sets

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

5. 
   dw40 | Jul 23, 2002 07:17am | #5

   I got some good advice here a while ago about doing the same thing.  I used PL400, troweled on to my 4x10 sheet.  Screwed a temp. ledger across the bottom to help with the awkward handling(edges are way sharp) , pushed it against the wall (w/help), pulled it off again, let it sit for a few minutes, then put it back up, using a laminate roller to make sure I had good contact.  It certainly feels rock solid, 6 months later, without having to use fasteners which mean putting holes in the stainless, which is not a big deal with a plasma cutter, hellish without. 

   Since then, I installed a stainless tile floor (yes, it was ugly) using PL Professional Flashing Adhesive, which you can get at Home Depot.  It comes in a yellow and black tube and is the freaking bomb...fills gaps, stays flexible, has a little slip at the beginning for fine tuning and pulled the subfloor plywood apart when we had to pull a piece up after it had set up 12 hours. 

   Hope that helps.

   Don

   Oh, and remember there is a difference between a wall looks "flat" when painted white and a wall that looks "flat" with a shiny piece of metal laminated to it. 

6. 
   TomT226 | Jul 23, 2002 08:13pm | #8

   Jamie,

   I'm thinking of doing the same thing. What gauge SS are you using, and what did it cost per square foot?

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jul 23, 2002 08:37pm | #9

   16 gauge costs $10 per square foot at a local metals place.   It comes with a brushed finish, and is covered with a protective plastic film that I peel off at installation time.   The yard gets it in sheets much larger than most backsplashes, and charges $10/cut.   I'm still thinking about whether I need the backsplash as thick as 16 gauge.

   Edited 7/23/2002 1:41:44 PM ET by JAMIE_BUXTON

1. 
   flintin | Jul 24, 2002 02:31am | #10

   I did a stainless steel backsplash in my loft condo. I installed it directly over ceramic tiles using just plain ol contact cement.

   I haven't had any problems with the install at all.

7. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jul 27, 2002 03:20am | #11

   Update ---

     After I thought about it a while, I used brushed 24 ga stainless.   It is about $5 per square foot.  I fastened it to the drywall with PL Flashing Sealant and some screws where they happen to be concealed.   It looks good today.  We'll see if it stay stuck forever.

1. 
   Snort | Jul 27, 2002 03:36am | #12

   A good grade silcone works great and sets up the fastest of anything we've used...

8. 
   archyII | Jul 27, 2002 03:43am | #13

   I'm and architect that does a lot of commercial kitchens.  The kitchen contractors on these jobs use contact cement to install the S.S. wall flashing on drywall and high temp. silicone on cbu (behind the cooking equipment).