Replies

1. 
   Jock | Jan 05, 2003 10:37pm | #1

   Saddle valves are cheap. Almost any building center will have one to fit your need. Who knows, maybe the next tennant can use it.

2. 
   FrankB89 | Jan 05, 2003 10:53pm | #2

   You don't give the pipe or tubing diameter...if it's 1/2" copper pipe, you can cut the pipe, gently pull the 2 ends apart far enough to slip on a repair coupling (doesn't have the dimples inside), slide it all the way on one end, align the two pipe ends and slip the coupling over the other pipe end so both ends are equidistant inside the coupling.  Then sweat it on with solder and MAPP gas or propane (be sure all surfaces to be soldered are freshly cleaned and fluxed).

   If it's tubing, just get a couple of female compression fittings and a male nipple with corresponding thread, cut the tubing and install.

   If you've not done this before, get all the sizes and someone at the supply store should, hopefully, be able to line you out.

   The last option: call a plumber.

   Jules Quaver for President   2004

3. 
   Qtrmeg | Jan 06, 2003 02:13am | #3

   Leave the valve, you don't want to be the one that disturbs the no-leak zen thing you have under the sink.

   You got lucky last time, don't push it.

1. 
   DavidThomas | Jan 06, 2003 04:40am | #4

   1) leave the valve, they're cheap.

   2) never start a plumbing project unless the plumbing store (or at least the home center) is still open for several more hours.

   3) As said above, if 1/2" pipe you need: tube cutter or fine hacksaw, sandpaper, acid flux, solder, torch, a 1/2" repair coupler, and the knowledge to use them.

   4) I don't think saddle taps are used for tubing, so the compression x compression fitting for tubing probably won't be a possibility. But they do make compression x compression fittings for 1/2" copper pipe and that saves you working with acid, flames, heavy metals and such. Just cut out about a 1/4" gap, slide the fitting on one side, loosen up the other side enough to get the fitting on the other side of the pipe and then tighten up the nuts on the fitting.David Thomas   Overlooking Cook Inlet in Kenai, Alaska

4. 
   HeavyDuty | Jan 06, 2003 05:33am | #5

   You can do a repair following Notch's advice, with all that trouble it's better just to leave the valve. You shouldn't have used a saddle valve in the first place so why do you want to take a used saddle valve with you?

   Tom

1. 
   junkhound | Jan 06, 2003 06:39am | #6

   Another vote for leave the valve, but here is one I used when the kids were teenagers and liked to throw darts the full length of the 53 ft basement and occasionally hit a water pipe.  Piece of old inner tube with 1 wrap around pipe, tighen hose clamp over - when there are 4 or 5 of these, then kids get a lesson in installing repair couplings and short piece of new type L pipe (vs M that was there) .

2. 
   JohnCollins | Jan 06, 2003 03:18pm | #8

   I guess I'll start with a compression x fitting.  If that seems like too much work and I can find another saddle valve, I'll do that instead.  Why shouldn't I have used a saddle valve in the first place?  It took all of two minuets to install and has provided years of filtered water with no trouble.  If there's a better way, please tell me, because I'm moving to one more apartment before I build my house and I'm about to do this all over again.  Thanks for all the input.

1. 
   SteveInCleveland | Jan 06, 2003 03:33pm | #9

   Leave the existing valve and then buy an identical one for less than ten bucks.

2. 
   BillHartmann | Jan 06, 2003 07:59pm | #11

   Besides the rubber on the old saddle valve has probably hardened into the current installation. Changes are it will leak if you try to reuse it.

3. 
   Piccioni | Jan 07, 2003 12:43am | #16

   New saddle valves are basically leaks that haven't happened yet. Old saddle valves are leaks waiting to be repaired. Whatever time savings you get installing one you will pay back fixing it. I suspect that vendors like them because 'no special tools are required'. Quite frankly I am surprised they are even code....

4. 
   billyg83440 | Jan 07, 2003 01:08am | #17

   Since no one has suggested what you should use in place of your saddle valve. I have a suggestion.

   First, definitely leave the saddle valve you have behind.

   When you get to your new apartment. Replace the single shut off valve on the cold water line with a double valve and hook your water filter to this new valve. Any plumbing store should have these.

   If you cannot shut the water off to the entire apartment, necissary to replace the shut off valve, then it gets a bit more complex.

   Shut off the cold water valve. Disconnect the cold water supply line to see what size threads there are. Then go to the plumbing store and have them help you get the parts to connect a Y-fitting to the valve. Most stores will have a splitter that will screw directly to the existing valve. On second thought the splitter would be my first choice.

   Of course with an apartment any plumbing mods. you make could make you liable if there is a leak. Particularly important if your are on top of a multi-story unit. Make sure you know what you're doing and seal the threaded joints well w/ several wraps of teflon tape. You do have renters insurance.... Right?

5. 
   andybuildz | Jan 06, 2003 12:44pm | #7

   John,

        By the time you buy what you need to repair the hole it'll cost you in time and material more then the valve is worth. Youre asking for trouble if you ask me. Just leave the thing there and buy another.

   Be well

          Namaste

                     Andy

   "Attachment is the strongest block to realization"
   http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

6. 
   Haole27 | Jan 06, 2003 06:36pm | #10

   are you going to take the toilet seats and wallpaper too?

7. 
   MarkH128 | Jan 06, 2003 08:09pm | #12

   A saddle valve is $3.76 american at Lowes. Why do you want to keep a 8 year old valve? Taking your bulbs too?

   http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=25628-104-A50/PB9604CP

1. 
   andybuildz | Jan 06, 2003 10:10pm | #13

   Mark

       Careful....I got scolded for kidding around with newbies...you may get it next.....lol.

   Be well

          Namaste

                     Andy"Attachment is the strongest block to realization"http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

1. 
   MarkH128 | Jan 06, 2003 10:25pm | #14

   I don't get his point. But I got yours.

   I'll be good.

1. 
   andybuildz | Jan 06, 2003 10:32pm | #15

   MArk....NAhhhhhh. Dont be good...

   Be yourself

               Namaste

                           Andy"Attachment is the strongest block to realization"http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

8. 
   toolnut | Jan 07, 2003 02:03am | #18

   Leave the valve.

   I stumbled upon a fitting at HD that worked great when I installed our filter.

   It is a 1/2 mpt by 1/2 fpt about 1.5 inches long.  it has an 1/8 fpt tap in the side that a needle valve threads into for connection to the water filter.   (It looks similar to a conservation valve you might mount between a shower head and arm, but brass not chrome)

   All I had to do was disconnect the supply line from the bottom of the  faucet, screw this fitting on the faucet, connect the supply line (with new cone washer) to the fitting, install needle valve and so on.

   Slick fitting.   Only one they had.  Have looked elsewhere with no luck.  But they have made'em.

   Bill

1. 
   mitch | Jan 07, 2003 05:42am | #20

   thanks for the memories-  when my brother and i were kids we played long distance darts in our 50' plus long basement, too (plus unauthorized shooting range with our .22 into old phone books and magazines when folks weren't home)  never hit a water pipe, but now that you mention it, it's a miracle we didn't because there's a bunch in the area we used to do it.  however, we did wreck the top of the pingpong table with low throws.

   the hole in the pipe occurred years later- when my Mom started exercising in the room above a spot where a joist brace nail had been touching a copper water line.  five years of hanoi jane tapes, etc and the pipe developed a pinhole leak.

   m

9. 
   mikemahan | Jan 07, 2003 05:41am | #19

   In California, and I suspect other states as well, anything you attach to a building becomes the property of the landlord.  If you put up a new light fixture you can't take it with you. If you attach a saddle valve it is no longer yours to take.  If you take the valve and leave a leak you can get sued.  Worth it?