can you expect a chain saw to last? I have a Poulan chainsaw, 11 years old with about 500 hours of “work” time. This is the basic, plastic 2150 saw. Lately, limited power, runs like Sheite. Need a tune up, rebuild or a new saw?
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I had a poulan 3350 from '87. It blew up after about the same amt of use.
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I've got a thirty plus year old Pioneer Farmsaw that still does the job just fine even if it is a bit temperamental sometimes. I keep meaning to send it in for a tuneup. One day I will.
My FIL gave me an old Homelite chain saw. It appears to be 800-900 years old and still works really well. I don't use it a lot but it is extremely reliable.
My Homelite Xl is from '66. Still runs great, esp. now that the gas cap vents.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
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i got the same homelite, red
Hmm, My Jonsered 52 is maybe 45 years old, used to get a lot of work out of it (10-15 cords a year felled , limbed and cut) until maybe 15 years ago, now only sporadically do I fire it up.
Still fires right up and cuts as well as it ever did.
"My Jonsered 52 is maybe 45 years old.."
That older than me. I get the impression that the saw I have is more on the "disposable" side than Lonsered.
Some years back I bought a 14" Poulan. Ran OK for a while, but ultimately was very hard to start and keep going. If I put it down to move a log, it wouldn't stay at idle long and died. Once I ran it cutting a bit and stopped it, I couldn't get it going again. Only solution was to let it cool for multiple hours.A local small engine shop told me that he could work it over to improve its performance, but that the labor cost would be better spent toward a "real" saw. According to him, the low-end DIY saws just weren't made for long, reliable life.I bought a 16" Husqvarna 141 after that, for $199, and it's been a real gem. It starts reliably, idles properly when set down, and restarts after being shut off.I run three chains, so I can have two in for resharpening when I'm on the third. At his recommendation, I flip the bar every time I switch a chain out. I also clean the gunk out of the bar with a fine wire, and get it out of the oiling passage too at chain time.
I bought a Husqvarna 350 at Lowes a couple fo years ago, and the thing has been great! One thing to note is that you need to read the starting instructions in the manual. If you don't follow the instructions, it is easy to flood the engine and spend the next two hours wearing your arms out cursing out a storm. I read a bunch of comments online in various forums written by people who obviously didn't read the manual, so there are a lot of unwarranted bad comments out there. When I first brought mine home, I made the same exact mistake. I thought the unit was defective, and decided it might be a good idea to see if there were any pointers in the manual, and sure enough, it told me all I needed to know about starting it. Never had a problem since. Starts after only a couple of pulls, even after sitting all winter with last years gas/oil mix still in the tank!
bought a 16" Husqvarna 141 after that, for $199, and it's been a real gem. It starts reliably, idles properly when set down, and restarts after being shut off.
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When slabbing a big Pecan tree wind and age rot got the better of, I used my old 3.7ci Sears' 18" (Oregon) and a new 20" Husqvarna Rancher 55... Side by side, the Sears' has more lugging power that was easily seen when using a crosscut chain but cutting down with the grain....View Image
The 20 year old Sears' clutch finally went, but I took my ball-peam hammer and went around the outside of the clutch housing, ever so slowly forcing the clutch housing inward in diameter...It worked for another 2 seasons. ;>)
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The Husqvarna's 3 day life span has ended in the coming replacement of the pickup coil...spark became very weak and easy started completely stopped. What was an "odd" coincidence was when I was at the nearby "Tractor Supply". Three returned Husqvarna chain saws were sitting on the retail shelf with the new ones. They were being sold as "Refurbished"...all had on their repair ticket the replacement of the electrical spark coils....
Bill
Take the muffler off and clean it and the exhaust port.
spark arrester could be clogged
#### gas
change the fuel filter
throw a new plug in it
tweak the Hi and Lo needles
run the thing full blast when you cut
that's all I got
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Tim, I've got the same saw for odd stuff around the yard. I think mine's about 8 years old and I paid around $120 bucks for it, reconditioned. If it died tomorrow, I'd have gotten my money out of it. I can even recall using it for demo on one job, cutting out cj's. I've always used dirty motor oil for chain lube and never tuned it up or drained the gas during periods of not using it. If I were you, I'd probably spend about an hour on it... drain the gas, change the plug, clean it up a bit, etc. If it didn't fire up nicely again then I'd thank it for it's service, give it a proper burial, and go buy another identical one.
I have the basic poulan diy grade saw.
My boss in ME found it in a ditch in 1992 I offered him $50 and he gave it to me.
pretty banged up when I got it but after getting it tuned up it ran good for a few years.
but since we moved to the burbs it sits for years between uses and even sta-bil can't help that...
but usually just a fresh tank of gas and a new filter will get it running.
I would say that saw owes you nothing...
if you see yourself needing a CS on a regular basis you might be better off buying one of the "real" saws out there..
Jonsered
Husky
Stihl
If Bob Smalser is still out there lurking he would be THE man to axe (pun intended)
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion"
-Neil deGrasse Tyson
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If Pasta and Antipasta meet is it the end of the Universe???
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according to statistical analysis, "for some time now, bears apparently have been going to the bathroom in the woods."
"if you see yourself needing a CS on a regular basis you might be better off buying one of the "real" saws out there.."
I think you're right. Its one of those situations where I didn't know if my use warranted a "real" saw and got this one, "to see".
I cut about 4 - 5 cords a year. I have 1/2 dozens chains for this one and keep 'em sharp most of the time. 11 years and ~500 hours is not a bad value for a $130 saw, so I have no complaints. I make a fresh batch of gas mix a couple of times a season and usually run the saw dry when cutting. I do have a larger Pulan Pro 295, 20" saw that I use for bucking larger logs. Use the same gas in it and it runs like a spotted-arse ape (very well, that is). I always run the saw flat out when cutting (can you do it any other way?).
I'll take it down, clean out everything and try a new spark plug and fresh gas.
Thanks for all the input folks!
Not worth rebuilding .
Keep a sharp chain on it and service it . Ride it all the way to boot hill.
Actually as you might have guessed age has little to do with a chain saw . Problem is the ones dont have the compression button to use when starting and anivibration , electronic ignition , rpm to match the current selections . For all those reasons you cant put money into an older cheaper saw . Thing to remember is a chain saw is more about care than it is about use . They only run a few times per year much like a boat motor for many of us . Most of them never cut over 4 cords per year and the average is well below that . So if they are serviced and a sharp chain is always on the saw they will go for years and years . I remember buying a smaller saw to go with my big saw for limbing . I made the statement that the saw would never handle firewood cutting and I wanted the saw to rest my arms for trimming . The old pro said yer wrong about that saw . That saw will cut all your wood if you give her time and dont push with a sharp chain. Just let it do the work with the weight of the saw and it will cut all the firewood you will use. He was right . Not fast enough but he was right . It doesnt hurt them to run if they are treated right .
Tim
hi, in a past life I sold and services saws,
basic ck, pull muffler, look into cylinder , move pistion up and down slow, if galled, gouges, either cylinder walls or piston, its likly junk, if looks ok, small scratches are fine, then clean carbon from ports and sparr arrestor, see that all holes are open.
then clean air filter, then if still an isue fule filter, todays gas ic cr%p, so stabil is the way to go if sitting more than a few months,
I also used the old motor oil in my chain lube(NEVER in w/ gas, get good oil, mix a little more than they cal for, do not go 50 to 1 ratio, may be ok for water cooled boats, but not good for air cooled in my opinoin)
good luck, Dave
Now that you remind me, I think my Poulan blowing up was from using wrong gas mix. It was still an old 20/1 rec but all my other stuff here is 50/1. pretty sure I got them mixed up that day.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Be warned, they don't like the new E-10 gas. Expect problems. I'm running K-100 in all my 2 stroke stuff now but I don't know what I'll do with my 2003 Merc 200 Saltwater outboard this summer. 9 dollar bottle treats 20 gallons, boat holds 86.
I never store my saws with fuel in them anymore.
Right you are. I just had to replace fuel lines in both saws I have now. rubber eaten by the alchol or additives to stabilize it.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
It will also eat any rubber gaskets, or o-rings in the carburator.
Thanks for the ck list.
CAREFUL WITH THOSE CAHINSAWS SEE '' BREAKTIME '' ''MOST DANGEROUS''
Mine last to just about the first time I loaned it out!!
Brought it back, "It was running a little rough & felt like it was hot"
A little rough & hot it was, and a little lean on the mix too!!!
2 strokers have a short life span.
not really, if you start off with a decent brand, use good oil, and keep cooling fins clear to avoid overheating, look at all the landscapers that use the 2 stroke lawnboy mowers, commercial work, all day long.
Lawnboy is a different story. All roller bearing. But over all a 2 stroke has a shorter life. And you are right. They have to be cleaned up and good oil has to be used.
so recommend a good fourstroke chainsaw for us Larry!;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I don't know of any.. LOL
so recommend a good fourstroke chainsaw for us
Try the 4-stroke oil/gas mix Stihl pruning saws... Low noise and lots of torque on that 12'-14' extended boom, gearbox, and long drive shaft... ;>)
http://www.stihlusa.com/green/engine_technologies.html
Bill
Edited 2/24/2009 11:45 pm ET by BilljustBill
Edited 2/24/2009 11:50 pm ET by BilljustBill
Buy a better unit.
ALWAYS buy the best you can afford.
They are 2 cycles so eventually the pistons don't fit in the barrel any more. They lose compression and have piston slap. You could have it re-fit with a new piston. But it might cost you.
I've done it with 2 cycle motorcycles. But for a chainsaw?
I have a small Stihl that I baby. I drain the gas between use and keep the chain sharp. It should outlive me.
For small stuff I have an electric one. Works great! Just pull the trigger. Starts every time!
Edited 2/23/2009 11:53 pm ET by popawheelie
Buy a Stihl, run it dry at the end of the season (or keep fresh gas in it if there is no "end"), keep the bar out of the dirt and the chain sharp.
There is a reason that the loggers use these saws!
MY dad has one with about 45 years on it and some hard farm use - still runs great.
DIA