FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

How often do you change blades?

JasonPharez | Posted in Tools for Home Building on February 24, 2006 04:36am

Diesel got me thinking about this with his working in the rain post. That and the fact I watched (and heard) my new helper saw through a metal lumber band today with the circ saw I just got out of the shop.

Now obviously, for me, if it’s missing teeth, it’s got to go. But my help seem to annihilate saw blades, either to ignorance or misuse, at the rate of 4-5 per house. Hey! That adds up!

So how often do you change em?

Jason Pharez Construction

   Framing & Exterior Remodeling

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. dustinf | Feb 24, 2006 04:51am | #1

    I've been using the same Diablo blade in my 7 1/4 wormdrive for over a year.  Of course I don't use it that much. 

    I rotate blades in my SCMS.  I have a 10" Forrest blade that only comes out on the expensive stuff.  I have a couple Freud blades that I use for everyday stuff.  I use the 80 tooth blade the saw came with for solid surface, or PVC trim.  I rotate them when I start to get noticeable tear-out.  Or if I know I hit a staple or two.  The everyday blades get sharpened once every 2 months or so.  Prefinished mouldings require sharp blades.

    My table saw I have about 6 different blades, but I run a combination blade most of the time.  I always have atleast one at the shapening shop, and rotate a fresh one in as needed.  I'd say once a month during heavy use.

    Of course, I work alone, so the only ding-dong abusing my tools is me.

    My milkshake brings all the boys to the yard
  2. RW | Feb 24, 2006 05:12am | #2

    That depends a lot on what saw and what use. I don't use the framing saws all that often, and it's a 2x, after all. So a couple of blades a year. But the SCMS, if I'm going into a house thats all maple, I'm probably swapping the blade out twice a week.

    "A bore is a man who, when you ask him how he is, tells you." -Bert Taylor

  3. IdahoDon | Feb 24, 2006 05:43am | #3

    While framing I'll keep a blade until it starts to wander on straight lines.  New blades just cut straighter.  I probably change blades more often than most, but the blades usually don't go to waste.  As a blade wears down it is chucked in the remodel/demo pile.  Some days demo work tears up a few blades a day.

    Some guys I've worked with use a blade until it boggs down their saw, but a decent framing saw will cut pretty well with half the teeth missing so I wonder about them.

    How long the blade lasts is usually a byproduct of how many nails I've hit, rather than feet of wood cut.  Also, with a little better quality blade I've been changing blades much less often. Perhaps the expansion slots in the better blades keeps them running more true when heated up due to worn teeth?

    If a new blade has noticable woble I'll usually give it to one of the guys who doesn't care or put it aside for a demo blade.  Demo blades are kept until just about all the teeth fall off.  If a framing blade cuts exceptionally well I'll mark it and set aside for ripping of finish materials. 

    For any of the exterior finish cuts I've been using a 40 tooth diablo with decent results.  If one of those new blades is extra straight and cuts exceptionally well i'll set it aside to only cut doors and whatnot.  The average blade does well with soffit ply and the like.  Below average blades are used for interior MDF since it cuts easily, but is too abrasive for a good blade.

     

    Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't ignore the ugly chicks.

  4. User avater
    Timuhler | Feb 24, 2006 05:58am | #4

    I change my blade when the wood starts flying everywhere because I'm missing teeth, my saw blade that is :-)

    I like to have a sharp blade when I'm cutting rafters or stairs or any trim.  Otherwise I tolerate a blade as long as I can.  We were using Diablo blades with great success, but Big Foot sells their 7 1/4" blade for $5 and I can't tell a difference between those and Martathon.  In fact they look almost identical.  We were getting packs of Diablo blades for 10 or 11$ so we've halved our circ saw blade bill.

    Also, we decided as a crew that we get 1 blade a house and we can't keep a blade on the saw that is turning blue and smoking.  If you go over that, buy your own blade.  So far no one has had to buy a blade :-)

    1. User avater
      Gunner | Feb 24, 2006 06:25am | #5

        Wasn't it Piffin who started an excellent thread a year or two ago about how much it actualy cost you to work with dull blades? Specificaly the extra wear on the saw created by having to push a dull blade.

       

       

      Ugha Chaka! Ugha Chaka! Ugha, Ugha, Ugha, Chaka!

      1. Piffin | Feb 25, 2006 02:02am | #13

        must've been somebody else 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

    2. Mitremike | Feb 24, 2006 10:23am | #6

      Any thing more expensive than a dull blade---wear and tear, frustration, and last but not least--the danger factor?First time I have to push harder than guiding the saw its in the demo box---I have no problem with 7.25 blades comeing and going--All my table and mitre saw blades get resharpened--again when I have to push harder or feel the blade grabbing a little to much.I account for 90% of the wear me blades see so I can control the nail cuttin'Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
      Adam Savage---Mythbusters

      1. Danno | Feb 24, 2006 03:48pm | #7

        Like you pointed out--dull blades are dangerous because they kick back more often. They can also jam and "stall" the saw. My boss when I framed never changed blades. The saw would just scream as you forced it through the boards. I finally bought him some cheap blades.

        1. JMadson | Feb 24, 2006 05:34pm | #8

          Anyone sharpen their own blades? or send them out for sharpening? Is it worth it?

          1. Mitremike | Feb 24, 2006 09:31pm | #10

            depend on if your talking mitre blade or 7.25--I have invested enough in my table and mitre saw blades--10"an 12" resectfully and have them sharpened thru Rockler--who send them out to an outfit to be sharpened--Have had good results in doing this and cost me about a quarter to ####third what the blade cost new to have it done.7.25 and smaller is a one way trip from the wrapper to the demo box.Mike"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while" Mitremike c. 1990" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
            Adam Savage---Mythbusters

          2. Pierre1 | Feb 25, 2006 08:20am | #18

            In this month's 25th Anniversary FHB, Larry Haun tells of his framing company sending out 1000 circ blades out for sharpening, each month. I presume these were steel blades.

            Btw, it's a good piece, written by a 75yo who was at the very leading edge of modern building techniques, either by innovating or by adopting others' innovations. 

          3. junkhound | Feb 25, 2006 08:56am | #21

            Anyone sharpen their own blades?

            Cannot imagine it would pay in a profesional setting unless you have the setup and correct grinders. 

            However, DIY aspect, one can build a decent guide in a few hours for doing your own sharpening on about anything from circular to bandmill blades. 

            About the only thing I dont sharpen are hacksaw blades and fine tooth bandsaw blades and the 40 to 80 tooth 10" carbide blades reserved for furniture efforts.  Framing 7-1/4" are so cheap it isn't worth the effort to sharpen.

            Sawzall and rip bandsaw blades are pretty easy to grind 'by eye', only takes about 3-5 minutes to sharpen a 92" 6tpi bandsaw blade 'by eye' - you can accurately grind 2-3 teeth a second with practice.

          4. User avater
            Gunner | Feb 26, 2006 12:30am | #24

              When I took shop in the tenth grade on long island that was part of the class. Sharpening different types of blades.

             

             

            Ugha Chaka! Ugha Chaka! Ugha, Ugha, Ugha, Chaka!

        2. User avater
          Fonzie | Feb 26, 2006 12:42am | #25

          Danno,Those new marathon blades (also Makita) with the "foot" behind the tooth never offer to grab (unless they overheat and "dish"). Fz

  5. blue_eyed_devil | Feb 24, 2006 06:02pm | #9

    When they need it.

    blue

     

  6. doodabug | Feb 25, 2006 01:29am | #11

    I change blades when I start pushing the saw instead of guiding the saw.

    1. Pierre1 | Feb 25, 2006 08:23am | #19

       

      I change blades when I start pushing the saw instead of guiding the saw.

       

      Can you spell relief?   N-e-w    B-l-a-d-e. 

  7. User avater
    dieselpig | Feb 25, 2006 01:48am | #12

    Jason,

    For 7 1/4" saws, I swap them out about once per house on average.  We usually change them right before we start cutting rafters.  I use a different saw for most of my exterior trim, so that one just gets changed when it needs it.

    It's pretty vague, but I guess Blue's "when it needs it" is really about the best answer anyone can really give you.  It all depends on what your saws been doing and how frequently it's been doing it really. 

    Running dull blades can be dangerous, cause excessive tool wear, and produce poor results.  But chucking a perfectly fine blade before it's time has come is just as foolish.  So I guess "when it needs it" is a pretty accurate and honest answer.

    View Image
  8. peteduffy | Feb 25, 2006 02:18am | #14

    When the smoke alarm goes off in my basement, I know it's time to switch the blade on my tablesaw.

    Pete Duffy, Handyman

    1. DonK | Feb 25, 2006 02:39am | #15

      Jason - Thanks for starting the thread. You just reminded me that the guy working with me for the last three weeks took off with one of my 40 tooth blades to get it sharpened and never brought it back.

      When do I change them? When they start needing me to push hard, or smoking -whichever comes first. (If I'm doing close finish work, I'll drop a new blade in too.)

      As far as the workers abusing tools, I make them pay. Example: one of the helpers I have used in the past is a beast. His favorite quote is, "Your the boss, I'm just the horse." He means it. Breaks more handles and sh!t than you can think of. I bought a brand new broom and he broke the handle within three days, so I got another one and the handle didn't last the first day. When I paid him, I took out $20 for the broom and told him so. He didn't complain. An accident is one thing, but after the second time, you bought it.

      Don K.

      EJG Homes      Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

       

      1. ANDYSZ2 | Feb 25, 2006 07:45am | #17

        Did you give him the broke broom as a reminder of "you break it you own it".

        ANDYSZ2I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.

        Remodeler/Punchout

      2. blue_eyed_devil | Feb 25, 2006 05:04pm | #22

        Don, I do better than that. I tell the guys to get their own broom!

        blue 

        1. JasonPharez | Feb 25, 2006 06:32pm | #23

          Hey everyone, thanks for the responses.

          I've always used the Marathon blades as they were always the best value for the money, but I recently tried a pack of B&D Pirahna framing blades. They worked well until I spent all day cutting SYP rafters--gummed up really quick.

          So, I've went back to the Marathons.

          I usually change blades before I start cutting joists/ rafters, and sometimes before I start plating the next house. All I know, though, is that my helpers are tough on tools!

          Thanks again y'all.Jason Pharez Construction

             Framing & Exterior Remodeling

  9. CAGIV | Feb 25, 2006 03:07am | #16

    smack your help?

    Team Logo

  10. markls8 | Feb 25, 2006 08:49am | #20

    While a dull blade certainly smokes, that in itself is an unreliable way to decide when to discard a blade. Especially a more expensive 10/12" (or Dado, if we're talking table/cabinet saws). Sometimes a perfectly sharp blade will smoke when all that is required is that the pitch be cleaned from it. Then voila - blade lika new!

    - Brian.

     

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Mortar for Old Masonry

Old masonry may look tough, but the wrong mortar can destroy it—here's how to choose the right mix for lasting repairs.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Guest Suite With a Garden House
  • Podcast Episode 688: Obstructed Ridge Vent, Buying Fixer-Uppers, and Flashing Ledgers
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Finding the Right Fixer-Upper
  • Keeping It Cottage-Sized

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data