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approx. 8 to 10 years looks like same one in my shop.
Brian
You like it?
Thats a good saw, and pretty good price. Not much to go wrong with them 'cept the motor and bearings in the wheel hubs. commonly the blade back back up bearings go, but they are cheap and easy to replace.
I had the same one in a guitar shop. I remember replaceing the traveling blade tensioner block too now that I think about it, but that was an oddity, the casting broke. It too was easy to get a part for, Delta parts fit.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
thx,
I think I go buy this morning.
I'd snag it up at that price.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
bringin' me green snaggin' hook.
Snag ya some 93.5" blades Olsen or Timberwolf and make ya some 3/8 x3/8th or is it 1/2" x 1/2" cool blocks for guides... I use corian or ebony,them steel blocks can wreck a blade right quick.
If the guides have Allen set screws I replace them with thumbscrews too..tooless adjustment means you are more likely to KEEP it adjusted properly.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
JBS-14CS duly snagged 250$
Nice guy. He'd put urethane tires on it recently and one of those red v-belt drive belts. Also replaced the upper tensioning device--I guess there was a factory problem with it.
It has a sturdy little aluminum fence, metal side block guides and a bearing at back. You say make your own blocks? Is there an upgrade kit I can just buy that would improve on that setup?
When looking at it he started talking about 'bandsaw drift' and that he just follows lines anyway and doesn't use the fence... I pushed a piece thru with the fence and it angled right down and pinched about 8" in. I've used bandsaws some but never futzed with adjustments... wanted to make sure the drift could be remedied b4 buying so as it appeared the whole guide system was twisted off from the fence, I moved it, readjusted the blocks and sawed a 3/4" slice off a dry 4x4 nice and straight.
He said, "Damn, that's embarassing..."
Anyway I'm going to use it to resaw trim boards from CVG 2x's and chunky 2 1/4 x 6 jambs I scalvaged. What blade do I want?
Also is a magnetic featherboard the way to go on the table to hold the stock against the fence? And should I build the fence up vertically?
What say you?
You buy after market blocks, called Cool Blocks, graphite or similar, I just make my own. saw em with the saw. LOL.
Drift is not so much the guides as the teeth on the blade favoring one side or another, and fences are adjustable just for that reason.
Mostly what I do, ( no fence on my current Rigid saw) is make a pivot fence. I take a 2x6 about a foot or 9" long and on the chopsaw, make one end a point like this > laid flat and double 45'd with the bevel, not miter. Bandsaw the other end in a swoop to make a thinner ( say 2" ) thick tail that can be clamped to the BS table.
Set the point at whatever thickness you want to saw, and clamp it on the switch side of the table, not outboard I am saying. Then if you have drift, you can pivot the plank on the point and maintain consistency to the face against the point. Thats for resawing.
If I was to want to rip say a zillion pcs at 2" and had no table saw, I'd start the rip and get it cutting following a line, then clamp a straight edge to whatever angle that blade happened to need to cut a paralell piece.
You done good...link belt, new tires, and the tension block? Damm, I'm envious. Just put new tires on my saw, IIRC they were 14.00 ea.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Oh, I don't own a magnetic FB, I just clamp them. Make my own..again, with the saw..about a 35-40 degree angle and fingers about 2-3'' long..depending.
As far as a tall fence, sure, if you can get it dialed in well enough..I think I have a cobbled up plywood fence like that, but again, I don't do THAT much resawing, the 6" max tall is mostly too short for what I'd LIKE to resaw..still hunting for a riser block, which you may someday want too..it makes the blade need to be 105" and the resaw height can go to 11" then, there you almost need a taller fence, but you may not have enough motor to resaw that much.
A wider blade sometimes helps, but I saw with a 1/2" woodslicer just fine.
I had a Hitachi dedicated resaw, it took a 3" wide Stellite tipped blade, would cut anything you threw at it.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Thanks man!
I'm rippin.
Pat
They came with a single speed pulley. An optional 3 step pulley kit was availible. Have the same one at my full time job, it's 6-7 years old and has been really abused by some of the loonies we have. People kept cutting steel on it and wondered why the blade was trashed! I recently replaced the 1hp motor with a 2hp 3ph with a VFD, you now can cut steel within reason on it.
Brian