How to attach a corner bead on double layer(s) of 5/8″ and what mud to use for corner beads
Overconfident DIYer here that is putting in a downstairs bedroom near the furnace and water softener. For noise control I have used a double layer of 5/8″ sheetrock on the walls and ceiling so the walls and ceiling all have 1 1/4″ of sheetrock.
#1 – I need to put a couple of corner beads on the ceiling where I had to go around the furnace’s return ducts. If I try to nail or screw in the corner beads, they will miss the wood frame entirely and just be driven into the bottom layer of 5/8″ sheetrock. Could I just use something like contractor’s adhesive to hold them in place or would a few screws be adequate even though they are just in the sheetrock?
#2 – I saw a YT video that kind of implied that using 45-minute mud (Easy Sand 45) on corner beads was preferable to All-Purpose or Plus 3 because it’s rapid hardening and more impact resistant resulting in a more durable corner. True or not?
Thanks.
Replies
If you had a crimper, you could use that to fasten the corner.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjY09KW3Z-AAxXDADQIHQ74CkkQqa4BegQIDhAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.homedepot.ca%2Fproduct%2Fmarshalltown-1-1-4-in-corner-bead-tool%2F1000147179&usg=AOvVaw0bSapD7VTTOzLpYOYFs7--&opi=89978449
Or
Staple the corner bead on.
We always mud first coat with Durabond, dries harder that Easysand so don’t be sloppy.
You can also look to the TrimTex site for other available corner beads.
The crimper looks like a fantastic tool if I had much more to do than 1 bedroom and a bonus room. Unfortunately (or fortunately), I only have about 20-25 feet of the dual layer to do and it is all on the ceiling so I am hesitant to drop $65 on it.
Any significant difference between the Durabond 45 and 90? Will using the faster curing create a more durable corner?
Setting time is the only issue. The 45 might take off on you. Stick with the 90 and start out with just a mud pan till you get to know it.
Yeah, I am not quick so I will stay with the 90.
Thanks for the help
use tape on corner bead
So, bed the corner bead and then tape over it on each side?
You can just staple on a plastic corner bead. I think the metal corners with the paper tape attached to them are stronger. For that type you mud both sides of the corner from floor to ceiling and then push the corner bead in place. Use a 6" knife and feather it into the wall. Don't push it in too hard because having it sit a little proud of the wall plane allows room to cover the corner with mud. I usually use 90 minute mud. It is harder than ready mixed all purpose when it dries. Durabond is too hard in my opinion. The second two coats I use topping or lightweight ready mixed mud so I don't have to mix it or rush to get through a batch of mud before it sets up. These are easier to sand and get smooth finishes with. Corner bead never needs fiberglass tape or paper tape over it. The corner bead itself is covering the corner. Good luck
I think I am gonna look for some metal corners with paper tape. Didn't know they existed.
I am planning on using Plus 3 for all of my 2nd and third coats. Do you think the pre-mixed All Purpose mud is durable enough or is any hot mud going to be significantly better.
Hot mud is better for embedding corners or tape in my opinion, but plenty of people use all purpose. I’ve never used plus 3 so I can’t comment, but lightweight or topping mud is best for 2nd & 3rd coats because it’s easier to skim walls or patches.
Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.
I ended up using vinyl corner beads and stapling them into the drywall with 5/8" staples. Worked very well. Had to pull out a couple of staples after the first fill but the results were great.
I ended up using the USG Easy Sand 90 for all of my corner beads...... I don't know how anybody uses the Easy Sand 45. I can't imagine trying to get that stuff up on the walls and ceilings before it sets up
The trick is practice and not feeling like Rembrandt.
45 vs. 90.
Staple on a plastic corner bead or use metal corners with paper tape attached for strength. Mud both sides of the corner, then push the corner bead in place. Feather it with a 6" knife and use 90-minute mud. For the next coats, use topping or lightweight ready-mixed mud for easier sanding and a smooth finish. No need for additional tape as the corner bead covers the corner.
The setting time is the main concern. The 45-minute mud might dry too quickly, causing difficulties. It's better to use the 90-minute mud and begin with a mud pan until you become familiar with its application. This approach will allow you more working time and better results.
Smitbret,
My name is Mark Petersen. I'm an editor at Fine homebuilding. I would like to use your question in our "Ask the Expert" Department. Would you be okay putting your name to it? Please email me here and let me know. [email protected]. In the interim, here is the response from our expert:
I have run into this situation a few times over the years.
First, I hope that the drywall was hung so that only one raw edge of the drywall is exposed at the corner. The metal corner bead legs are typically only 1 1/8” wide.
Nail on metal corner bead is not my bead of choice and hasn’t been for years. There are just so many better options out there today. That being said metal is still the most common bead used today by far. Maybe because it is what we are most familiar with, even for the novice. Metal also gives the perception of Strength. But I think most importantly it is less expensive at least compared to other beads. But Not much cheaper.
IF you have already purchased metal nail on bead I think your idea of adhering it with construction adhesive is good. I suggest stapling it on with ½” long staples to help hold the bead in position while the adhesive takes hold.
I prefer the tape on/mud set beads because they are fast and easy to install. In my experience they are more durable and less prone to edge cracking. When using in a situation like you described they are the best answer because they attach to the drywall only. No fasteners need to go into any framing. Also Joint compound is the adhesive that holds the bead in place . Joint compound is a product that if you are taping drywall you will already have and because it embeds into the compound just like when embedding paper tape it is easy to understand the process/method.
Note: There are some vinyl beads that are also very good that attach to the drywall only. They are attached with a special spray adhesive and staples.
The only compound I recommend for adhering the beads and for the first coat over nail on metal beads is the all purpose (Heavy weight) premixed compound. The plus 3 compound which is a light weight compound should not be used. Light weight compounds are for fill and finish coats only. Setting compounds are harder compounds which is why some people think it is stronger, but it does not adhere as well as the all purpose so I don’t recommend them for adhering the beads or even for the fill coat over metal beads.
In my opinion, hot mud works better for embedding corners or tape, but many people also opt for all-purpose mud. While I haven't personally used plus 3, I can't provide any feedback on it. However, when it comes to the 2nd and 3rd coats, I find that lightweight or topping mud is the best choice. It makes it easier to skim walls or patches smoothly.