Replies

1. 
   GoldenWreckedAngle | Nov 18, 2003 10:16pm | #1

   I think most pro's prefer to use two layers of flexible 1/4" drywall but I've had success with two other methods as well.

   1) floating one side of a 1/2" sheet in water until it's soft but not mushy

   2) scoring the sheet at 1" to 2" increments to form a floppy roll top desk kind of sheet that wraps nicely around a radius. 

   That second method is best reserved for smaller areas more than full sized sheets. It's a little more trouble to float it our to a baby butt smooth finish but it works pretty well, especially when you have a solid backing behind it.

   Kevin Halliburton

   "I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity."  - I.M. Pei -

2. 
   CloudHidden | Nov 18, 2003 10:18pm | #2

   Use extra framing behind it. I've seen curved walls where the SR sort of straight-lined from stud-to-stud. Twice the studs woulda helped.

1. 
   CAGIV | Nov 18, 2003 11:43pm | #3

   Do you know what spacing is recommended for different radius?

   I don't know where I heard this.... I believe I heard 6" o/c is needed for most bends.

   I also watched a DW guy do a bend on a 48" radius, he used a garden sprayer to wet the back and placed the sheet over a trash can that was on it's side to pre-bend it a little, he then wet the back again before he installed it.

3. 
   KRettger | Nov 19, 2003 01:52am | #4

   Depends if it is an inside or outside radius.

   If it is an inside radius you can use 1/2 or 5/8" drywall and back score @ ~ 1", wet down the face of the board and then lean it against a wall and bend it. Repeat the wetting and leaning for more bend.

   You can do the same wetting technique minus the back scoring for outside diameters.

   Your not going to get too much of a curve this way but it still works pretty good.

   Biggest factor is what diameter curve or radius. With a radius of ~ 12' plus you don't even have to wet the drywall, just remember ALWAYS start screwing or nailing on one side, getting lots of attachment points per stud or joist, and then bend the drywall a little more and attach to next stud or joist over, and then continue in this fashion until you get to your last stud. If you don't you'll likely end up with a bulge or hump where you didn't suck the drywall up tight to the framing.

   The tighter the radius the more studs you will need. ~12'+ radius and you can stick with 16" OC. Get it a little tighter radius and drop it down to 12" OC. Then 8",6",4" depending on just how tight you get.

   Using double layer 1/4" high flex drywall you can take this all the way down to a radius of about 18" to 24".

   Just remember patience. Schedule the time to do it right, use your best men, and make dang sure you get with the head tape and bed man when you are done. Show him the wall or ceiling and make sure he approves and will have no problems with it. This way if he puts a "half trained monkey" on it and it comes out all catywampus with waves, bulges, and humps, you are covered, and can with confidence stand behind your framing and rocking skills, techniques, and finished product.

   Good Luck, and Get Rocking Brother,

   Cork in Chicago

1. 
   donpapenburg | Nov 19, 2003 04:01am | #6

   I never score the back side because of the flats on the outside it produces . I like to try to bend with out wetting first.  Some brands bend better than others. (trial and err) Humid days are best for bending.   A lot of times I have gotten better results bending one 1/2" sheet instead of  two 1/4" sheets . The 1/2 seems to arc around the bend ,but the 1/4 tends to flat from one stud to the other .

4. 
   ErnieD | Nov 19, 2003 02:50am | #5

   I contact cemented 1/4 drywall to 1/4 plywood, then using long screw w/washers drew the combination down to the studs. Was in a sky light well for a bath room. Pretty smooth and it held up for 17+ years. Did not have to mist or score.

5. 
   Clay | Nov 19, 2003 04:40am | #7

   You can prebend by putting the sheet up on it's ends and weighting the center and then wetting thoroughly with a garden hose.  Wet it several times then let it alone for at least overnight.  your weight will slowly create a sag in the center and the outside edges will stay up because of your supports so that it will be permanently curved.  The radius should be similar to what you need though it doesn't have to be exact (you can easily adjust a little while installing it).  Don't make the end supports too high or you will risk a fold in the center, the sheet should touch the ground when it is curved enough to approximate your radius.  I actually like 3/8" rock for bending though I can't always use it.

6. 
   CarpenterPJE | Nov 19, 2003 06:45am | #8

   I do this all the time w/  1/2",  I wet both sides & span it between saw horses with a bucket or somthing under it between the horses so it can't drop to the floor & break. Just keep wetting it & it will soften up in about 10-20 mins.  When installing it,  it will be very soft & bend well. If you have to force it to hard, it needs more water & some time. You will get the feel for it.

   Good Luck

   PJE

7. 
   jbz | Nov 19, 2003 08:32am | #9

   We spray the sheet with water and set it on saw horses.  In about 1-2 hrs your ready to install.  We also make some curved blocks the same radius and drill a hole in the center with a long screw. This helps form the S.R. tight to the framing.  We also had good results using wiggle wood sheets and skim coating.