Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Apr 07, 2005 04:37pm | #1

   Easy as pie. Frame out the jambs with one-by (cedar, cypress) and install 1x2 glass stops. Call the glass co. LET THEM measure for the glass..trust me. ( Cut stops for both sides at the same time BTW).

   After glass is installed with the spacers, you can install the ext. stops and caulk..they may want to install the stops as well.

   The reason they measure is, if it is wrong, it's thier butt, not yours..triangles and trapazoids CAN be installed wrong and triangles can be flipped..when something expands, broken glass is the result.

   I have made templates of the hole, and had the glass made up, but the templates must be EITHER with the space allowed or with out..and they need to know which it is.

   Usually a 1/4" all around is about right. They also seal the install with a polyurethane caulk.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success, is not pleasing others, it is pleasing yourself"

1. 
   Skagrock | Apr 07, 2005 05:08pm | #3

   “Easy as pie. Frame out the jambs with one-by (cedar, cypress) and install 1x2 glass stops.” Are the 1X2 glass stops to be cedar or cypress? “After glass is installed with the spacers, you can install the ext. stops and caulk..they may want to install the stops as well.”Sounds like we’re working from the outside – right? The inside stops are in place and the glazier is working from the outside??It sounds like a fairly simple process. It seems to me the hardest part will be the trim-work. Can you comment on the outside trim?Thanks so much for your comments.Al

1. 
   Sphere | Apr 07, 2005 05:24pm | #4

   I mentioned the choice of woods due to the facts that the last gable triangle window I did was a log home in NC, and ALL the trim in and out was clear cypress.

   Our glass co. wanted to install from outside ( didn't want to set up scaffold inside I think)..so I went along with them.

   As for trim we used radiused edge 1x4 both in and out.  Just mitered the corners..

   Sorry, the pics are in my dead computer for now. 

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success, is not pleasing others, it is pleasing yourself"

2. 
   mccarty12 | Apr 07, 2005 04:54pm | #2

   I don`t build a lot of fixed frame windows but they are fairly easy to build. I first build the frame. I usually use a Krieg jig which is a fast and strong joint. Then I install the frame in the opening, shim it square and nail it with casing nails. Next I install a window stop on the outside edge. Then I install the window and have it rest on a few thin neoprene blocks, and I lay down a thin bead of clear silicone on the window stop to keep the window from rattleing and to seal it. Then I install the inside window stop. Foam the gap and install the casing.

   If you live in a cold climate you are going to have to use insulated glass. The suppliers are fewer for this kind of glass so fill in your location on the member profile so we can assist you better. Perhaps someone can steer you to a supplier in your area.  My supplier has a tech sheet that outlines the building process. I`m out of town now but I think the name of the supplier is Artic Glass in Eau Claire WI

    

1. 
   Skagrock | Apr 07, 2005 05:40pm | #5

   “I first build the frame. I usually use a Krieg jig which is a fast and strong joint.”I recently bought the Krieg jig to make frames for a “sandwich” style door that was recently written about in FHB. I haven’t yet used the jig but plan to do so soon. I’m a little confused though about the jig’s application with respect to building window frames. The “sandwich” style door frames use pocket holes to join boards edge-to-edge. The window frames I had envisioned more resemble a “door jamb”. Can you clarify how you used the Krieg jig to fabricate fixed-window frames?What kind of wood would you recommend for the casing and stops? “Next I install a window stop on the outside edge.” Does it pay to install the stop before the frame is installed? “Then I install the window and have it rest on a few thin neoprene blocks, and I lay down a thin bead of clear silicone on the window stop to keep the window from rattleing and to seal it.”Do you remove the neoprene blocks or do they stay? Do you apply silicone to the inside of the outside window stop before placing the glass?I live in Northern Maine and planned on going to the local glass shop for the insulated glass. I’ll check out Artic Glass for the tech sheet.Thanks so much!Al

1. 
   mccarty12 | Apr 07, 2005 07:00pm | #6

   To make the frame put two holes in each edge of the head jamb and sill. There will be four holes in the head jamb and four holes in the sill jamb . There are no holes in the side jambs. Then screw the head and sill to the side jamb.

   I would use cedar for the window stops.

   If I was working from inside (which I always have with these windows) I would put the stops in after I put in the frame. If I was working off a ladder I would probably put the stops in while I had the frame on the ground.

   Leave the neoprene in and silicone to the inside of the outside window stop.

   I would call the window store before I made the frames. They might have some common sizes that you could incorporate into your design. Otherwise you might have to have the glass custom cut which will cost more. Also, many local glass shops only cut single pane glass for storm windows ect. and don`t deal with insulated glass, but I`m sure they could direct you to a supplier.

3. 
   VaTom | Apr 07, 2005 08:10pm | #7

   I prefer walnut or white oak (no sapwood) and have the non-removable stop milled into the frame.  Then biscuit together with a submersible structural glue, like resorcinol.  Getting custom insulated lites is no problem.  Far as I know any glass shop will order them for you.

   For your application, I would normally get the glass in before I build the frames.  It's safer than relying on somebody else's measurements.  Even if they eat their error, you're still without the glass for awhile.  Depending on size, I'd glaze before installing.  Easier to get good compression on the EPDM gasketing, which you will want to get from Resource Conservation Technology in Baltimore.

   Here're a few that are fixed:

   PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

1. 
   Skagrock | Apr 07, 2005 08:37pm | #8

   I’m impressed by the variety of information offered in the responses to my question: all have their merits to be considered. I have a much better idea now as to how to go about this project. There are certainly options. Thanks, everyone. “I prefer walnut or white oak (no sapwood) and have the non-removable stop milled into the frame. Then biscuit together with a submersible structural glue, like resorcinol.”I am considering 5/4 clear Cedar for the frames since it is local and readily available. What do you think about using 5/4 Cedar?Are screws and glue acceptable for joining the frame?As far as a milled-in non-removable stop is concerned, I don’t have that capability. But I did think about creating a slot using a router and then gluing and nailing in the non-removable stop. Any comments? Thanks,Al

1. 
   VaTom | Apr 08, 2005 12:33am | #9

   Al, all my milling is on a tablesaw.  But I do start with 8/4 stock.

   Cedar should be fine.  Sapwood of any tree has little to no rot resistance.  Screws and glue are fine, assuming you create a joint for glue to work in.  Also bear in mind that it's a window- your glue's gonna get wet.  Pretty much all the frame has to do is hold together until it's attached to your wall.

   Nails are another matter.  I wouldn't, unless you have stainless nails.  There's nothing wrong with a good glue joint, without the nails.

   Don't have a pic, but I did a bent lamination of redwood to make a round-topped window that sits in a shower wall.  About the worst possible location for a window (not my house).  It's working fine.  Resorcinol and zero sapwood.

   I start with the sill and assume that any and all joints can leak.  Make sure any leaks end up going outside.  In truth, I don't end up with leaks, but if I did, they'd drain outside.  That EPDM window weatherstripping I can't strongly enough recommend. 

   The last set of windows I made, 10' tall, we copper clad.  Worked out very well.  If kind of a battle to set them.

   Have fun.  Don't forget, you likely want low e glass.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

4. 
   byrnesie | Apr 08, 2005 03:51am | #10

   If you're making up your own sills, don't forget the capillary- break that helps water that runs around the bottom of the sill drop off before it wicks into the house wall. I set the table saw blade up about 1/4" and about 1/2 from the bottom outer edge of the sill and rip away then move the fence a 1/16" or so an widen the kerf just a little.

   A simple detail I notice ignored alot on attached sills made to give modern windows the traditional appearance.