Replies

1. 
   miragesmack | Jul 04, 2011 01:30pm | #1

   I already see my ink is not

   I already see my link is not working.  I'll try this agin.

   http://s919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/miragesmack/Door%20Caulk%20Help/

2. 
   DanH | Jul 04, 2011 02:24pm | #2

   For the narrower cracks you should just stuff with foam backer rod (so as to leave room for about 1/4" caulk) and then caulk over. 

   You start having problems with this technique when you get gaps consistently wider than about 1/2", though.  Perhaps someone has some suggestions for those areas.  (I have some ideas, but they're untried, so not the thing to advise to a first-time DIYer.)

   Re the caulk texture, you can purchase "sanded caulk", intended for use with tile (in the tile area of your Big Box).  However, this is not exterior (UV resistant) caulk and is not highly flexible (which is what you need), so it would be a little bit of a gamble to use it.

3. 
   calvin | Jul 04, 2011 05:57pm | #3

   Welcome to BT.

   I would use a Urethane caulk obtained from a masonry supplier.  They will have a variation of "sanded" caulk (still Urethane) that is more coarse than smooth urethane caulk.  Here's a link to one :

   http://www.tremcosealants.com/commercial/products/product_detail.asp?id=1

   Vulkem 116.  There is a light grey-Limestone, I believe a slightly darker grey also.  The lt. grey is close to light morter.  They should  have an actual color chart of the sealants.

   You'll find others-most for use in commercial applications, that's why you need to go to a masonry supply.

   Sonneborn is another-by basf.   They also have a more coarse form than the smooth urethanes.  They have a darker grey called Aluminum Grey, as well as a limestone.

   I see moderate gaps in your pics, but nothing looks an inch wide.  Backer rod of various thicknesses should be used to backfill the gap.  This allows you to still keep the caulk in the 1/4 to 1/2" thickness-yet you can do wider in successive applications where you work side by side-filling the width.  I've gone and inch but rather keep it to narrower gaps.  To do this if your casings don't come close to the stone-redo the casing so you close up the gap-yet can keep your straight line of the casing edge.

   Apply tape to the face of the casing and also along the stone/morter b/4 you apply the caulk.  Backer rod, then fill the gap up to the tape line and edge of casing.

   You need to tool it (or not) to make a smooth caulk run.  I've used fingers, shims, putty knife-whatever worked to acheive the look I desired.  You can tool urethane to a flat smooth joint, or the traditional cupped shape.

   You need to take the caulk "thin" to the tape-you don't want alot of buildup over the tape you are going to peel off to get that straight line.  Pull off from the top down and away from the joint.  If there's a bit of fuzz left alont the edge-lube up a finger with mineral spirits and light brush it along the edge of the joint.  Do not leave the tape on longer than necessary to do the tooling.  The result will be good...........................perfection comes with experience, but I think you'll come out fine.

   Best of luck.

   It is hard to work with, will stain your hands, will stick to everything and will not wash out in the wash.

   Keeping mineral spirits in a cup, on a rag and on your fingers and tools will aid in smooth application as well as clean up.

4. 
   Scott | Jul 04, 2011 09:53pm | #4

   BTW... most cool house. Don't

   BTW... neat little house with a cool entry. (Somebody was probably pretty proud of the stone work in that entry when it was built). Don't know about energy efficiency, but it's an OK house. Might benefit from some well managed plants under the windows.

   I hope you can get it buttoned up for winter...caulking's a good start. (Looks like you might have some roofing issues too.)

5. 
   miragesmack | Jul 06, 2011 04:31pm | #5

   Dan and Calvin, thanks for the replies.  I did plan to use backer rod, forgot to mention that.  Thanks for the link.  I will check a few local masonry stores, if they sell to DIY, and see what they have.  I figured there was something out there for this situation, just didn't know what to look for, and google was no help.

   BTW, I mistated my thoughts on the 1 inch wide part.  I just meant the caulk was 1"-2" wide from side to side because it was built up so much over the years, as shown in before pic.  The cracks are what you see, from virtually nothing to 1/2" in just a few spots. 

   Calvin, thanks for the taping trick, that's what I'm talking about.  That clean line is very important to me, it looked so nasty before.  One question about the tape process.  Trim is now sanded, should I apply the primer, then tape, then do the stone joint, then apply top coat of paint?  Or just do all the painting, then tape, then caulk mortar joint?  I ask because I usually caulk after priming andbefore paint. 

   Scott, thanks for the kind words.  The house has it's charm, though being built in the last year of WWII it also has it's oddities.  At times, you can see where they saved a few bucks.  I just want to enhance a few details, with period looking details.  And yes, the roof needs help badly.  It's never had a tearoof and top layer is going on 40.  I planned to redo the dormers next, but the roof is so thick, I can't get the new siding to roof gap correct because of the layers.  Roof isn't cheap, still sorting out what to do there.  Landscaping started then stopped to focus on house, so plants on the way next spring.

   If interested, here's a link to other pics of house, problems, etc.  Will tackle them as I can.  I'll post pics of my completed job.

   http://s919.photobucket.com/albums/ad38/miragesmack/House/#!cpZZ1QQtppZZ20

1. 
   calvin | Jul 06, 2011 05:44pm | #6

   mirage

   Any wood that is going to be outside, in contact with masonry or even in the place where it'll pick up moisture, should be painted.

   However, sometimes that doesn't happen.  In the event it's not primed, Urethane caulk will still perform well.  No matter what you do, you'll never be able to backprime that door jamb-I'd hit the edge, the casing and wrap around back as much as you can.

   Remember too with the tape-the thinner you are with caulk buildup at/on the tape, the better the straight line will be.  If it fuzzes up a bit, you can knock that down with a steady no pressure finger lubed with spit or thinner................thinner probably better.

   Don't putz around trying to be perfect-THEY (most everyone else) won't see it-unless it's at the door bell or at eye level.  Get that perfect, the rest good and you'll be golden.

   If you like the look of the grey color then paint first, finish caulk last.

   Best of luck.

1. 
   DanH | Jul 06, 2011 11:00pm | #7

   Definitely prime before caulking.  If you will not be painting over the caulk, you may also want to paint before caulking (so you don't have to work so hard to get a straight paint edge at the caulk edge), but be sure to give the paint a few days to cure before caulking (so that the tape doesn't pull the paint off, if nothing else).

2. 
   JAlden | Jul 07, 2011 12:28pm | #8

   You may want to grab a caulk finishing tool from a paint store. They make a difference in how the finished joint looks.

   Still use the masking tape though.

6. 
   jBrewster | Mar 01, 2020 09:59am | #9

   Thanks for asking this question several years back and thank you all for the detailed helpful instructions.
   USAF is moving me again and I’m working needing you fix lots of little issues with the home.
   I have stone to wood door frame front entry and the mortar was taken to the frame. Of course there’s gaps and missing segments for me to repair. Now I know what to do. I especially like the advise about being perfect at eye level and good everywhere else. Thanks!