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How to cut granite vanity top-help

seg3 | Posted in General Discussion on October 4, 2007 11:59am

I purchased one of the solid material granite vanity tops that measures 49″ x 22″ with the sink bowl attached. I need to trim off 5/8″ due to the opening being 48 3/8″ wide for the vanity top to fit in the alcove on the new vanity installed. This is a man made solid surface material that are pieces of granite and polymer put under high pressure to give you that granite look. What steps would I take to cut this top. I believe I would need to purchase a diamond stone cutting blade (7″) for the electric saw to make a dry cut. Correct me if I am wrong on this. I am handy enough to do it but want to make sure there are no hidden surprises. Do you cut from the back side and do you tape both sides of the surface material.  Your help and tips are welcomed.  

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  1. sledgehammer | Oct 05, 2007 01:06am | #1

    Personally I'd cut the drywall out, set the top and patch with a pair of endsplashes.

  2. FastEddie | Oct 05, 2007 03:44am | #2

    You might could use a diamond blade in your circ saw.  be sure to buy one that is rated for cutting dry.  Or buy a wet blade and keep drizzling water on the cut line.  You might have good luck buying a suitable blade from a tile store, they have blades made for varius materials.  Not all tile blades will cut that stuff.

    But I agree with sledge, I would probably cut ouit the sheetrock on both ends.

    "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

  3. paulwaterloo1 | Oct 05, 2007 03:52am | #3

    I've cut granite counter tops with a masonary blade and a circular saw. Make a fence for the saw, and make sure you have two people to keep things straight. Put tape down and on the bottom of your saw.

    It wasn't a polished look, but it did the job. Here's the cut, the exposed end:

     

    View Image

    1. TomC | Oct 05, 2007 04:25am | #4

      That looks like marble to me. I doubt that if you can cut granite with a masonry blade.

    2. FastEddie | Oct 05, 2007 04:54am | #6

      That's a nice soft marble top.  Pretty though.  What's that industrial roll of tp doing on the counter?"Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

      "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

      1. CAGIV | Oct 05, 2007 04:56am | #8

        that's for REAL big poops...

        like after burrito night

  4. junkhound | Oct 05, 2007 04:27am | #5

    The cheap 7" diamond blade from HF ($8 on sale), used with water dribbling on it from a hose, will cut 1-1/2" granite with no problem, should handle the plymer OK too.  Have cut full depth in cured concrete with it, no problem.

    Use a guide, you do need to apply good pressure, and without a guide, the cut tends to drift because the pressure on a sidewinder handle is not directly in line iwth the blade.

  5. CAGIV | Oct 05, 2007 04:55am | #7

    I'm guessing this a quartz countertop such as Silestone, Cambria, or Zodiaq?

    for the two guys suggesting cutting out the S/R, grow a set ;) it's really not that difficult.

    Seriously though, if you have an angle grinder that's what I use.    Is it 2CM or 3CM?

    If it's 2, you can get by with a 4" diamond wheel, if it's 3CM, depending on the quality of the blade and your grinder you'll need at least 4 1/2" which will be pushing it for getting all they way through, and a cheap wheel will degrade enough in that cut to not make it all the way through.  We use a 5" and have no problems.

    I would urge you not to use a circular saw, the RPM's are not right IMO and there is a chance, albeit minimal with Quartz, that you will scratch the top.   Plus it will take multiple passes.

    Same with the grinder, score the top first to develop your line then take multiple slow passes with the grinder.  If you have to use a 4" grinder purchase 2 blades and plan on going from both sides.

    I'm assuming the cut edge will receive some sort of splash, either similar material or tile?  you'll probably have to cut the splash if it's Quartz anyway.  If you're not planning on installing a splash, then cut just shy of your line and work your way back to it.  You can use a piece of masking tape as a guide for your cut.

    A slow steady hand is all you need, don't get nervous or try to go to fast.  When you do this, do it outside wearing a mask and goggles.  If possible have a second hand with a shop vac in back of the blade to suck up the dust,  When cutting with the vac we eliminate 95% of the mess.  If you try this inside without the Vac you will be real sorry.

    Worst case scenario, call a local fabricator and ask if they would cut it for you, chances are the fee would be minimal.

    Where are you located, maybe someone know's someone close by?

     

    Team Logo

    1. Karl | Oct 05, 2007 06:34am | #9

      It looks like I need to 'grow a set" as well as I frequently cut out the sheetrock rather that trimming the stone when the countertop is surrounded on three sides. Cutting stone is easy as you point out but it only takes five minutes to cut out the sheetrock and after a little bit of touch up with mud and paint the countertop looks like it grew out of the wall.The cut itself in the sheetrock can be very precise if I am careful with my knife so the touch up is very minimal.If no one is availible to touch up the wall I would cut the stone.To each their own.Karl

  6. MikeHennessy | Oct 05, 2007 03:32pm | #10

    I cut granite with a dry diamond blade in an angle grinder. Tape the cut line (it's tough to see a pencil line through the dust) and go slowly. Your cut may be a bit "rough" on the edges (I never cut the man-made stuff, so I'm speaking of experience with stone). You can cover the edges with the backsplash (er, sidesplash?) though.

    Mike Hennessy
    Pittsburgh, PA

    1. johnharkins | Oct 05, 2007 06:55pm | #11

      another method / option
      I use my 7" wormdrive skil w / a diamond blade and water before the blade while coming in reverse w / the saw so it is cutting on the downstroke rather than from the bottom cutting in typical forward mode

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