Replies

1. 
   Ray | Apr 23, 2008 04:21pm | #1

   I recently cut 3/4" and 1" strips, I used a piece of angle iron for the straight edge and a Formica scoring knife.  It took about 4 passes with the knife to score it deep enough, and started 'snapping' it off at one end.  I left the straight edge clamped to the formica & work surface and started lifting the strip with a putty knife to start breaking it off.  Go slow and score it a couple more times if there's any problem.

2. 
   IMERC | Apr 23, 2008 04:23pm | #2

   only way to go....

   http://www.tapeease.com/LamTls.htm

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!
   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

1. 
   bobbys | Apr 23, 2008 10:15pm | #8

   i bought that tool and it is the only way to do it, makes it very easy, I would order it and wait till it gets there.

3. 
   jjwalters | Apr 23, 2008 06:11pm | #3

   I always cut formica with my table saw (and I've cut a lot of it)....

   use a thin multi toothed carbide blade and cut it a little wider than you need in case of a chip or something......

   glue it up and use a router to fine finish

1. 
   IMERC | Apr 23, 2008 06:25pm | #4

   useing a zero or negative rake blade will produce less chipping... 

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

2. 
   GOLDENBOY | Apr 24, 2008 01:40am | #9

   Tablesaw.  I clamp on a thin !/8 or 1/4 sheet over the table to prevent the laminate from getting under the fence.

4. 
   Buttkickski2 | Apr 23, 2008 07:27pm | #5

   Tablesaw w/good laminate blade.

   .

   .

   "Thank goodness for the Democrats! If you are terminally unemployable, enjoy living off of govt welfare and feel you owe society nothing you're in luck: there is a donkey waiting for you."

5. 
   PeterJ | Apr 23, 2008 07:51pm | #6

   If you don't have a tablesaw or laminate stripper here's another way. Sacrificial sheet of ply, osb or chipboard. lay laminate face down on sheet, clamp straight edge to guide skilsaw with a sharp blade,  cut 1/8" into sheet, move straightedge, repeat. Easier if ply's on horses.

    

   Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

1. 
   stevent1 | Apr 23, 2008 08:26pm | #7

   I have cut a lot of P-Lam and thin sheetgoods and the safest way I have found is to use a laminate jig for the table saw. The sled is made from 1/4" melamine, any thing will work. I like the melamine because it is smooth.

   View Image

   1/2" Baltic birch is used for the cleats.

   View Image

   The pusher has a strip of standard grade P-Lam glued on one edge.

   View Image

   The other edge has a stip of V-32 glued on. The pusher sllows you to safely put downward and forward pressure as you cut.

   View Image

   Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood

6. 
   MSA1 | Apr 24, 2008 02:43am | #10

   I've done very little formica but what we did, we cut on a table saw.

7. 
   basswood | Apr 24, 2008 02:52am | #11

   Here are a couple photos of my laminate rip set up for a table saw. Mine is made of 1/2" DMO. This arrangement provides zero clearance and keeps laminate from slipping under the table saw fence and binding.

   
1. 
   Adrian | Apr 24, 2008 04:03am | #12

   I've cut a whole lot of plam using both....tablesaw is better for big pieces, the laminate slitter by far better for narrow widths unless you can add on a good bit for waste. There is also a motorised version of the laminate slittler that can cut to 25", so you can split a 4' sheet. If you are doing a lot of it, probably worth it although I haven't used it.

    Cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.

1. 
   xxxxx | Apr 24, 2008 05:57am | #16

   In the custom millwork shop where I work, we cut a lot of laminate.  Mostly use a tablesaw with a piece of 1/8" hardboard used to cover the gap at the bottom of the fence.  with this setup you can cut most any width you need.

   If you are glueing in place & then edge trimming in place, alittle extra width is all you need.

   If you need a finished edge on each piece, you can:  1.  If the piece isn't too long & you have carbide knives on your jointer, simply joint the edge after you cut off each strip.  2.  Set up your router table as a jointer using a straight (sharp) carbide bit & a stepped fence.  This works better for longer strips.  If you're really careful doing this setup, you can make perfect, almost invisible joints in large layups.  I'm going to assume everyone who knows how a jointer works can do this setup, so I won't explain here.  If anyone really needs this explained, let me know and I'll do another post.  I strongly recommend using featherboards on narrow strips.

   If you need two finished parallel edges on a strip, proceed as in the previous paragraph to finish one edge then cut the strips approximitly1/16" wider then finished width.  After preparing enough strips (plus a couple extras) set the router table up as a miniature planer.  WARNING-THIS IS A HAZARDOUS PROCEDURE-FOLLOW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.  Use a straight fence that fits tight at the bottom against the table surface.  Set the fence so the distancebetween the fence and the router bit is the same as the desired finished width of the strip.  You will be running the strip between the bit & the fence.  THIS IS THE DANGEROUS PART!  THE STRIP MUST BE HELD FIRMLY AGAINST THE FENCE AT ALL TIMES!  To do this, make a feather board approx. 8" wide with good spring to it & cut a notch in it at approx. the midpoint which will fit around the bit & keep the laminate pressed against the fence.(I use 5/16" maple for my feather boards with teeth 1/8" wide and approx. 2 1/2" long)  DO NOT try to use a solid block to try to hold the strip in place.  The notch in the featherboard is so the strip is held against the fence before & after it passes the bit.  Set everything up so the strip is fed against the rotation of the bit. (This will be opposite the the direction of feed for the router/jointer setup.)   In addition to the featherboard holding the strip against the fence, a hold-down to keep it flat against the table is a good idea

      Feed a couple inches of the strip against the running bit.  The finished edge of the strip must be held firmly against the fence.  Hold in place & shut off the router.  Clamp or otherwise secure the featherboard to the table with enough pressure  to keep the strip securly against the fence. Too much pressure makes feeding difficult, too little results in chatter & poor edges.  Turn the router on and feed the strip past the cutter.  Be sure the width is correct.  This setup works best for long pieces, so cut long strips from stock & cut to length after.  You will probably find that feeding is easier if after enough length of the strip is pushed through, take hold of the leading edge & pull it, keeping it lined up with the fence.

   Take your time, think it through,& WATCH YOUR  FINGERS.  I've prepared lots of material this way & where it really shines is putting the cove & bead on canoe strips.  For that I've used two routers in the same table & done it all on one pass.  But that's another story.

    

   Paul

8. 
   factotam | Apr 24, 2008 04:20am | #13

   to establish a reference edge you can use a straight edge or a cutting guide and a circular saw or router

   http://wayneofthewoods.com/circular-saw-cutting-guide.html

   if you have a sheet of plywood you can clamp the laminate to the top of the plywood with the laminate hanging over the edge of the plywood and use a laminate trim bit with a guide bushing

1. 
   splintergroupie | Apr 24, 2008 05:01am | #14

   Hard to know what to tell you since we don't know what tools you have access to. If you use Factotam's idea, cut the laminate good-side-down. The top side chips out with the jig. When using the table saw, cut good-side-up. The knife-scoring won't leave a very nice edge if you need to butt it to something, but it does give you a straight reference edge to work off of.

   You can also use a jointer to establish a straight edge if the piece is of manageable size. .

    

   Edited 4/23/2008 10:03 pm by splintergroupie

9. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Apr 24, 2008 05:02am | #15

   i'm goin a different way than the others. i did this by taking a 1/2 pc of masking tape and apply it to the laminite,this gives me straight edge and the right width. ,then took tin snips and cut along the edge of tape. it came out pretty good but then i rolled each strip up into a roll about 6" dia and run a file around the circle and smoothed up the edge,then flip and do the other side.

   i couldn't find a way safe to run that small of strip thru the saw is why i did it this way.larry

   if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?

10. 
    Pelipeth | Apr 24, 2008 01:04pm | #17

    I'm with the table saw guy, never had a problem myself, finish up with the router.

1. 
   IMERC | Apr 24, 2008 01:40pm | #18

   use the slitter...

   nothing to build...

   be done right now...

   no dealing with the sheet goods...

   no extra steps...

   quite too.... 

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

1. 
   stevent1 | Apr 24, 2008 02:12pm | #19

   All good points.

   How is it used in dealing with 5'x12' P-Lam?

    

   Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood

1. 
   IMERC | Apr 24, 2008 02:22pm | #20

   on the material it's self???

     

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!