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How to deal w/the (alum gutter) seams!

remodlrj | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 9, 2006 04:50am

I am in the unfortunate position of having to install aluminum gutters and would like any experienced help in treating the seams.  I have only one splice, but in the areas where the downspouts and corners are, there are also joints.  the mechanical splices are a stronger connection but it seems they would impede the flow of water.  Is it feasible to lap the gutters and caulk and pop rivet the connections?  The splices they have w/o the m/f connector doesn’t seem to be much different of a concept than lapping.  Please help!  I’m not in a position to get a seamless installer to take over the job.

Thanks

Jay

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Replies

  1. seeyou | Oct 09, 2006 05:59pm | #1

    >>>>>>>Is it feasible to lap the gutters and caulk and pop rivet the connections?

    That's the only way, unless there's a particularly long run of gutter. The connectors you have are for expansion joints, but they seldom get used.

     

    "Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.

    http://grantlogan.net/

    1. User avater
      ErnieK | Oct 09, 2006 10:12pm | #2

      Actually, its not the only way... but usually done that way. For years I built box gutter for roofing crews and I preferred to build a sleeve to fit inside or outside of the gutter itself.  It seems to make a stronger joint, even with aluminum.

      I know, I know you guys are going to kill me but... if the gutter is the same exact size the roofers inevitably stretched or bent the gutter to fit and I hated to see it.

      1. seeyou | Oct 09, 2006 10:41pm | #3

        >>>>>For years I built box gutter for roofing crews and I preferred to build a sleeve to fit inside or outside of the gutter itself.Box gutter is a little different animal than aluminum ogee gutter. I've also used a butt joint with an internal sleeve on box gutter (I'm assuming you're talking about rectangular commercial type gutter - around here, box gutter is the term used for built-in cornice gutters).What the OP was talking about is expansion joint pieces he got at a big box that are being sold as DIY connectors. When I said it's the only way, I meant for someone of his skill level (and I've done and seen lots of very nice jobs done with lap joints. We don't use premade miters - we miter the actual piece of gutter and usually make mitered end caps unless the gutter end is butting against something). 

        "Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.

        http://grantlogan.net/

        1. remodlrj | Oct 10, 2006 03:45am | #4

          Thanks for the post.  When you mitre the corners how do you secure the joint? are you leaving tabs that you rivet on the ogee side and overlapping and bending the bottom and back? is this the way that the seamless installers approach them?

          1. seeyou | Oct 10, 2006 03:53am | #5

            yup. 

            "Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.

            http://grantlogan.net/

  2. huddledmass | Oct 10, 2006 09:04am | #6

    hey buddy...go to dmr gutters...he's a gutter guy in washington state or something...google it...he has some work pages where he gives a step by step of mitering ogee or k-style gutters....i think it is under a section on his web page called 'kistler work pages'....also he gives detailed instructions to building copper stuff for outside...you can spend hours on his website.

     

     

    "I hate quotations.  Tell me what you know"  Ralph Waldo Emerson
    1. gtmtnbiker | Oct 10, 2006 03:37pm | #7

      Thanks for the reference to DMR gutters. It's an excellent website with a wealth of info on gutters.

    2. remodlrj | Oct 11, 2006 04:15am | #8

      Ditto about the DMR website.  Pictures and a thousand words.  Thanks!

      1. huddledmass | Oct 11, 2006 05:25am | #9

        no prob

         "I hate quotations.  Tell me what you know"  Ralph Waldo Emerson

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