How To Fasten WRC Boards to Deck Privacy Walls
Van_G
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I want to fill the privacy walls of our deck with horizontal WRC boards: 2 courses 1×6, 2 courses 1×3, …..
Want to keep the gaps tight (1/8″) for privacy and sound.
Walls are PT on 24″ Centres.
Not sure of how the boards will be finished (natural or coloured stain, or left to age).
What’s the best way to fasten the boards (approx 1200 BF)?
1. SS Brad’s – will they pop
2. SS Brad’s with PL
3. SS Screws with head revealed for aesthetic
4. Another opiton?
Cheers
Replies
What about a hidden fastener system used on decks?
Hidden Fastner's
Expensive and I'm guessing it's not the way pro's put it up. I've taken a look around and it looks like Stainless Steel Brads through the face, just wondering if the PL Premium is required on the back to hold the board nice and straight (24 OC).
Don't always follow the pros examples
Always remember to a pro time is money, and fancy materials are money, and most customers don't want to pay anymore than they have to for either.
So, when building for your self, you get to decide what you want to do within the contraints of you time, your money, and your satisfaction with the look feel, and quality of your work.
I build things entirely differently when I am doing things for myself, or someone I care about, than when I do them professionally.
Material arrives next week. Anyone with experience able to chime in?
Are you talking 16ga brads? Might hold ok, may not. 18ga, no way. I'd use ring shank .092 siding nails. swansecure.com sells ss nails with painted heads. I don't really see the need for adhesive.
Also, you can't gap the planks too tight or you risk problems. You could rout or saw a shiplap so the planks overlap a small amount to completely close the gap.
I want to use brads and adheisive so the fasteners will be hidden once the cedar closes around the brad entry mark, which I assume will happen.
Adhesive (PL Plus) to make sure it doesn't move.
I've done layout and I'll be going with 1/4" and 1/2" spacing in our pattern of 2" and 4" boards.
Stainless Steel Brads are hard to source here in Toronto! Assuming this is the only material that won't bleed?
Van
PL Premium is their best.
Good luck with the brads-awful small no barb nail that it is. Cedar is pretty stable, it might work. I'd cross nail at the minimum.
Other Option for Clean Face?
I'm up for suggestions on how to accomplish a clean face install.
Brads and PL are the only thing I could come up with that is both relatively fast and cost effective.
My thoughts: brads are simply a means to hold the board until the PL can take hold and the cedar will virtually close around the entry point of the brad.
Is there another way (aside from hidden system or pocket from behind)?
If there's a beauty side, then yes there is a way.
You can brad and glue on the beauty/show side, then go around back where the neighbors are and screw through the laterals into the cedar. I realise you'll have to have the right length screw, and it'll be a pain in the ass to do it, but if would add to the holding power. I don't even think I'd go to the trouble, but would if necessary.
However, if you use PL Premium, I don't think it'll come apart............
until a big wind comes or the neighbors dog, kids, or themselves like to jump against it.
Best of luck.
I forget now and should read the orig. post, but if you are spacing the boards and don't think you'd see it, you could use a compatible (stainless if necesary) finish screw and come in on the edge of the board-toe screw. You'd only get one edge but what the heck.
edit: I see you are running the boards horizontal, adjust what I wrote for the direction you are going......................
Back to SS Screws through the Face
Thanks Calvin
I've resigned to screwing the boards through the face. The idea/practicality of glue-nail-screw from behind doesn't work for this project.... Bedroom, maybe?
I'm now looking for suggestions on a nice SS screw which will add to the esthetic. Initial spec:
Over sized pan head, 1 3/4" to 2", SS, Self Tapping
I'd go with a DeckTite Torx head but I think the cedar would eventually swell partially around the head and take away from the finished look.
I've seen the over sized pan head on the IPE install for Toronto's harbour front. Looks good but I don't know where to source them.
Suggestions?
Is 'over sized pan head' the correct descritpion? I've seen the head used a lot with DIY furniture.
Van
I'm not sure if you might mean Waferhead. Has a sort of widened base-like a washer with a low profile screw head. Wide but low in appearance.
Source-Well here in the US, McFeeleys is the go to source for fasteners.
Or, take a look at GRK's site-they are an international, but German company (I think).
Picked up some test screws:
Swaneze FInishing SS Square Drive which has a fairly small flat head
PosiDrive 2" SS which has a regular flat head (bugel)
Was unable to find a head that I mentioned above. Will check out waferhead.
Spoke with McFeeley's and the closest thing they had was a pocket hole screw with pan head. Was referred to botldepot.com which I check out now.
For crying out loud..................
You're working your fanny off trying to find something and I'm doing much the same (on the eve of a needed week away from these things) trying to match door details so the old doesn't look way different than the new and then of course that never any answer question..................LED undercab lighting in an unusual configuration per the homowner.
I'm sure this will get easier.
Hopefully, Best of luck.
You might take a peek at GRK cabinet screws, though I suspect you want a larger head.
The opposite option would be trim screws -- very small head.
Thanks for the GRK tip. Was hoping to find a wafer head (GRK cabinet is pan head washer).
The Swaneze screws I picked up are like a trim head. Going to put up a couple test boards this morning and see if it works for me.
If you are looking for wide and flat head, there is the "Powerhead" Screw by FastCap.
the Powerheads aren't a good solution
The posts are pt, so the Powerheads will probably corrode in short order.
McFeely's has #10 washer head, NoCorRode screws that will probably be suitable. The heavier gauge screw gives you a wider head. They also have 1/4-inch by 2-7/8-inch timber screws that will give you a 5/8-inch head.
Well, if he's looking a cabinet screws for outdoor use he's already off the rails!
Well, I say "cabinet screws"
Well, I say "cabinet screws" since that's what they look like, but GRK has "structural screws" with the essentially identical head, and I think they're available in SS.
duplicate