Replies

1. 
   Mdone | Oct 25, 2010 03:59pm | #1

   How big of gaps are we talking about?

   Assuming the drywall is attached to some type of framed wall with the end stud as close or attached to the timbers (for drywall strength/rigidity), I would just caulk them if they aren't to big, even if the drywall is cut tight I would still caulk the joint to seal and prevet chipping/cracking (may also give a little streching ability for the logs if they decide to shrink/dry a little). If they are starting to get a bit bigger than a caulk joint fill the gap with some backer rod or something simular and then mud as usual. If they are getting bigger than that start cutting the drywall tighter.

1. 
   shawncal | Oct 25, 2010 07:10pm | #3

   small gaps

   Thanks for the replies.  I already installed the drywall, and the gaps are less than 1/4", usually pretty tight.  I do have solid backing, so will probaly go the caulking route.  I wasn't sure if that was considered kosher or not, so that's why I posted the question.

   Calvin's tearaway L-bead sounds great, but I fear the joints are too tight to make it work at this point.

   Regards,

   shawn

1. 
   calvin | Oct 25, 2010 07:16pm | #4

   Is this new construction?

   What's the moisture content of those timbers?

   Shrinkage in width could ruin a good job.

1. 
   shawncal | Oct 25, 2010 10:43pm | #5

   New construction, sort of.

   The timbers have been in place for over 3 years, as it has taken me that long to get to the finish work!  Perhaps the caulk would allow for a little more shrinkage if necessary...?

   thanks

2. 
   calvin | Oct 25, 2010 05:14pm | #2

   Shawn

   With straight timbers I probably would go get a bunch of the proper length (you don't want to start piecing lengths) of Tearaway L-bead.  You need to leave your drywall up to a qtr inch shy of the timbers to insert the "L", you might be able to force it gently into an eighth inch gap.  You can use spray adhesive made for plastic drywall trims and / or staple it.

   The tearaway part will help you as you mud up to it..........when done (and this could be after primer and one coat finish) you "tear" it away, leaving a nice clean line up against the timbers.

   or, for wavy uneven hand hewn type timbers, might as well flat tape it-done much like doing the joints in the board-you apply mud up to the timber (probably pre-mask or use adhesive masking paper - couple inch wide- one the timber) maybe 4" wide, imbed (press) your paper tape sliding the edge right up against the timber.  Skim, pressing the paper to board with a 6" knife.  Add continuous skim coats till it's nice.

   L-bead is way easier.  You do need to back cut (mitre) the holy portion of the plastic, don't overlap it.

3. 
   Matthew Mich | Oct 26, 2010 02:08am | #6

   Gaps will be gaps

   Built timber frames 15 years ago.  Gaps will happen.  Exterior perimeter, we used stress skin panels.  Interior walls, flat tape, and added 1 tablespoon (roughly...not a whole lot)  of Plaster paris to Pre-mix joint compound on first coat.  I use a hawk when taping, and put about a 1/2 a loaf of bread sized compound on the hawk.  sprinkle the plaster on top...mix it in, fill your gap, flat tape...remove excess.  Makes for hard backing.  it's tougher to sand, so don't get all sloppy, just fill the cracks and get the tape down.   It also dries in about 30 minutes, and a great way to patch sheetrock and paint in the same day.

4. 
   carpenter21 | Oct 26, 2010 07:56am | #7

   trim tex makes a tear away bead for areas where drywall is hung to tightly. the bead does not have a return leg works great

1. 
   calvin | Oct 26, 2010 12:28pm | #8

   I had to look.............

   at the TrimTex site and you are correct.  Found this too, now there's some nice useful product.