I am building a deck with 2×10 joists and 5/4 deck boards. Deck is 80 inches above grade – 10 rises of 8 inches. Stairs will be 5 feet wide and I plan to use 3 notched stringers. Tread will be 2 peices of 2×6 screwed down into the stringers.
Question is… How to connect the stringers to the double 2×10 end joist?
This compact detatched accessory dwelling has an efficient layout with a vaulted ceiling that enhances the sense of space.
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Replies
First..careful about the 2'6" space between stringers, even with 2X treads.
I assume you've got the stringer cuts down....attachment depends if you want a "flush" first step, or a hangered (dropped) top step. Lots of ways to attach...strapping, notch the bottom at the top of the stringer and either set into a 2X joist hanger, or set onto a 2X4 scab. Could use A34/35 angles or some type of Rt. angle steel (weak though IMHO) .....
Don't forget to adjust for tread depth and riser material. (And that 36"X36" clear landing at the bottom)
For what its worth, though they may be legal, I think 8" risers are pretty high - if you have enough room, why not use 11 risers and make them a little over 7 1/4" high? You could use 1x8 for risers..........
Barry
How about this?
Flat strap used to hand garage door tracks and openers (fat blue lines) lag bolts (red)
Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
First, You definitely need to go with five stringers.
What we do for most porch step sets is this;
Build the steps with treads and risers(or open as the case may be - open risers make it easier to remove snow) as a separate unit, often with a sort of rim joist at the top of the set on large ones like these. We also put a plate on the bottom to spread the weight if there is no risers.
Attach the top of the set to the porch framing with a pair or three of large 'T' hinges. This lets the set swivel in winter just in case if the ground heaves.
Since I don't like heaving ground moving my steps and jerking the railings loose, I dig out about a foot of soil and fill it with peastone or inch minus under the bottom of the set, and try to do it to allow water to drain away from it all.
The top bar of the T hinge gets covered with the facia trim on the porch on mine but for those who leave porch framing exposed, some Bondo could help appearances. I have used strap like T drew on his scketch too.
Excellence is its own reward!
Good one piffin, I liked that part about snow removal. The kind of observation that only comes from experience. I wish I could understand that part about the hinge. I read about using that to allow the stringer to give with the expansion from the freeze and thaw. I am not clear. Where is it attached?
If you planed for the steps, and you put an extra post, or 2, in behind the stringers. Where they are to be mounted. You could add another horizontal 2 x to span the width of your stringer layout.
I think notching the stringers at the top, It is the strongest way. They each rest on a lagged 2 x 4 at the right height, on your 2 x, as to give you the correct rise to the deck, (with the tread thickness calculated, of course.)
I always calculate the the rise and divide to the nearest whole number, so all rises are even no more than 7. Then spread out the remainder if any unless it is easier to add a rise, and make them shorter. I don't like having a short rise on the bottom. It all depends on your space requirements. I Don't like to go over 7" unless it is a truly unique situation and it is legal.
If it were an inside staircase like an unfinished cellar staircase, or what have you. I use a cleat at the bottom. In front of the stringer, notched in flush. Then it will be locked in place.
Outside However, I would just let it ride on piffin's pad. It will move freely if it needs too.
You can cover up the end grain on your ledger. with a facia trim peice, and possibly incorporate it into your rail if you use balusters
Edited 7/16/2002 1:09:11 AM ET by Edgar76b
Edited 7/16/2002 1:11:09 AM ET by Edgar76b
I agree with needing more than three stringers.
I however prefer to see risers used. When proprly fastened they add a lot of rigidity to the steps.( Screwed to back of treads and down through the top of treads)
I dont like to leave the sawn "points" of the stringers as the only support for the front of the treads. very short cross grain here with exposure to weather , just a matter of time before you get splits or broken off points.
JMNSHO Your Excellency, ;^)
Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Good critique, guys. I wasn't trying to sell open stringers. I like trim risers too but I do select the material for stringers carefully and layout around the grain to avoid splintered notches.
The T hinge is applied with the strap side under the stringer, sometimes bending it and the top bar ot the T side of the hinge goes on the rim joist of the porch framing. I use mostly 2x8 porch framing and surface decking is 1x4 so the hinge shows if we don't trim out the porch but it just occured to me that if you have 2x10 framing and use two by for treads, you could fasten the set in place before nailing on the top tread material and hide the hinge entirely.
JMNSHO is an acronym I'm not familiar with. You trying to tickle me T?
Excellence is its own reward!
Just My Not So Humble Opinion ;^)
TDo not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
IMNSVFHO is another fun one.
Make sure you don't pick lumber, for stringers with heart wood, running down the center. I learned that one the hard way. Lucky for me it failed, Before I got all the treads nailed on.