I just installed 7 new prehung doors in my new second storey construction. I temporarily installed the door latches to set the door stop locations prior to painting and thought I had everything ok.
But now after painting, the hinge side of the door rubs on the stop causing an annoying squeak and slight binding that interferes with the door closing. Doh…
So does anyone have a suggestion on the best way to alleviate the binding? I think removing a 1/16 from the door stop would do it. Is there an easy way to do this, or another better way.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Thanks
Replies
Maybe this is terminology related,but doors should never comntact casing. The casing is the trim molding added after the door and jmab are installed. It sounds to me like you are describeing a problem with the jamb stop and not the casing.
Are the jambs solid milled or are the stops separate? IF SEPARATE< IT IS EASY TO SLIDE A PUTTY KNIFE IN UNER AND REMOVE TO RE_INSTALL>
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Perhaps it is terminology. My problem is with the door stops on the jambs, not the casing. The door stops are separate, but nailed, caulked and painted in place. The corner of the door rubs on the hinge side stop as the door swings to close. I'm hoping that I don't have to remove the stops. It'll leave a big mess of caulking and paint to scrape off and redo.
Is there a way to trim the stops in place?
There is no reason to caulkk stops. The mess is already made I'm afraid. Sounds like too much build up of caulk and paint. A good sharp scraper is probably the tool i would use.
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my vote: give it a shot of some silicone spray and be done with it.
Are you biting your tongue off or are you serious? Silicone spray for this problem would be comparable to using blowfish jelly on your baked potato... or do you fry your taters in silicone?
"Are you biting your tongue off or are you serious? Silicone spray for this problem would be comparable to using blowfish jelly on your baked potato... or do you fry your taters in silicone?"Huh? Silicone lubricant on annoying squeak caused by a door binding against the stop because its too tight by the thickness of a coat of paint...is like blowfish what? What are you talking about?
I merely fail to see how silicone will help a door that is bound because of not enough clearance from the stop which needs to be either cut back or removed and replaced to a slightly different location in relation to the slab. Blowfish jelly is nothing more than a tongue in cheek overstatement implying the ridiculous...
According to the original post, the door squeaks and binds a little because of the addition of a coat of paint. Silicone spray is a dry lubricant designed for this type of application. I don't know how bad the door binds because I guess I don't know how thick that coat of paint is. But it would have to be a pretty hellacious coat of paint to justify a tear-it-out and rebuild it reaction. At least not without trying a simple fix first. Just one man's opinion, sorry it bothered you.
And silicon spary is NOT a dry lub.
Silicone is much more than asimple dry element. The shape of the molecules interferes with paint bonding. There are some who claim that just the presence of a few molecules in a room can ruin a paint job. more - sprayed directly on, can stop the new paint from adhereing at all. I once built a spray room for an auto body shop. They wanted to read and aprove any and all caulks, glues and sealants that I would be using to make sure that there was no silicone present.I have also seen house paint jobs ruined by silicone. There is somnething else - "I just installed 7 new prehung doors in my new second storey construction. " is from his original posting here. This is more than simply an extra coat of paint. He later explained that he had not only painted, but caulked. I have never in my life seen any need for caulking in an interior stop, leaving me with avision of gobs of build up interfereing with the function of these doors. maybe all it is, is that he left tooo littele gap when he tacked the stops in place, but it seems more likely that far too much surfacant was applied, which was why i recommended a sharp scraper on the stop. In five minutes per door, he could have it working fine, then another ten could have the paint touched up, and there would be no silicone residue to ruin the next paint job.
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Apparantly you have never experienced some of the problems silicone causes to painters. They loose sleep[ over his sort of thing.
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Huck
What happens next time you try to paint the wood!
Doug
"What happens next time you try to paint the wood!"you have to prep it first - which you should always do anyway.
Most of the prehungs I've installed have had considerable slop between the stop and the door edge. Maybe when they were painted the edge of the door face accumulated a rather large paint bead. Happens very easily if care is not taken to brush out the flow that always builds up on those outside corners.
Ok, a re-read shows that you installed the stops. Did you stick a dime or a penny shim between the door slab and the stop to set your spacing or did you just eyeball it and nail away? Check your paint job, take off the stops and start over.
You can pull the hinges on the jamb, plug the screw holes with wooden match sticks and reinstall the hinges out about 1/8".
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Hammer has a good idea but a 1/16" might do the same thing. Use a wedge to hold the door up and do a hinge at a time.
I don't think it would take a few minutes to pull the hinge pins and reset the jamb hinge leaf. If the gap bothers the eye, you could fill it or set the door leaf in a tad further but round corner hinges are hard to recut. With plugging the existing holes, he'll have to set the screws right on the edge of the plug. I've never seen prehung doors with loose stops, must be a regional thing. Despite my signature, I don't actually beat on things too often. I bet it will do wonders for the paint job and maybe the hanging and trim job too. You'd have to bang on the header stop also, and seasonal humidity changes may get the door rubbing again.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
block of wood ...
hammer ...
adjust.
if that don't work ... just pop them off and reapply. Shouldn't be a big mess at all ...
just a little door stop?
move the hinges ... god no! Why not reframe the house ...
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
darn concrete guys
What Ralph and Jeff B. said.
Take a block of wood and smack the stop over. Should move, touch up the paint and your done.
Next time leave space between the stop and the door(on the hinge side and top)
Doug
keep it simple.tap them over.those pre hungs usually just staple the stops everyfoot or so.seems like they barely tack the stop ,and pepper the packaging.
Thats funny Fish, and oh so true!
I don't do many interior doors but I can say this about windows. The dang brickmold is held on by the priming but the cartons are not removable!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
That is too damn funny and too damn true!
never really thought of it like that .... but ya have one hell of a time getting those foot long staples outta the blocks on the bottom ...
then the damn casing falls off first time ya try to move the door!
and those plastic straps on windows ....
the whole window could fall apart and the last thing standing would be the packing straps.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Sounds like the boxes that the last Kraft Maid cabinet job I did came in...the boxes were built better than the cabinets! Added two days to my install time, just opening boxes, cutting them up, and bundling the cardboard ('course I was charging by the hour on that one, that may have had something to do with it).
Easy but not necessarilly the best. Take a block plane and shave the corner of the door (usually a couple of swipes) till it doesnt squeek and repaint. Generally its only hitting in one place or another. You can tell by looking where it scuffed the paint on the corner of the door or stop. Lot less mess and nowdays most people wont notice after its painted. I wouldn't do it to a door that stands open and in your face all the time.
Lose a craftsman, lose a book
Thanks for all the replies.
I'll try the block of wood and hammer trick first. I used about half a dozen 18g brads on each stop. Hopefully a little persuasion will do the trick. The caulking should stretch the 32nd or 16th of clearance that I need.
I was thinking that a little vaseline might work as a cheat... On the door stops. Get your heads out of the gutter ;)
Without reading through the entire thread....I`m guessing someone else will have supplied similar advice......but just in case....
When installing the door stops to the jambs, begin with the pull side. Close door so that outside door edge is flush with jamb edge from top to bottom. Hold and set door stop to door, and nail off. Then swing over to hinged side. Placement of this stop is less critical in that it is not actually acting as a stop, but rather as a merely decorative peice. With door closed tightly to installed stop, hold this leg in place against door. As you go to nail the peice, slide it a smidge away from door....a light eighth of an inch....or as was mentioned, use a dime or somesuch as a spacer. This gap will allow room for even a heavy coat of paint and binding will not occur. Lastly, the header peice. Align each end with installed stops and nail off being sure that it is not bowing in the middle.
As for what to do now that you`re encountering problems....if slicing paint/caulk and whacking with a block does not move stop out of the way, you`re best off removing offending peices and starting over.
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Repaired a similar problem where all doorstops had been caulked and painted in place. Some were too loose on the latch side causing the door to rattlewhen latched. Other stops were too tight after painting on hinge side. Removed all doorstops and replaced with larger/ wider stops. Pre painted prior to installation. The wider stops covered the mess of removing the caulking, paint tears and gave a flat surface.
I considered adjusting the originals but noted original installer had already tried in several places with mixed results. Opted for replacement. Every door now latches beautifully and has consistent margins.
BTW I use the edge of a strip of 18ga brads to set the margin between doorstop and door on the hinge side. 30 years / 5 coats of paint and it will still close. Tight margins are for amateurs, showoffs and the ones who never heard of weather.
" I use the edge of a strip of 18ga brads".there allready in your bags,thats what i like.thats experienc.simple.
I've worked with some guys who think using a spacer for hinge side door stop clearance is too time consuming. Eye-balling is much faster, but I like consistency, its a trade off.