Replies

1. 
   calvin | May 16, 2002 10:11pm | #1

   cuta, if you took it down, you should have noticed the proceedure they used to fasten it.  It's been several years and I don't staple up tiles for a living, but if memory serves, you staple (with ceiltile staples -about 5/8"by hand) the long edge of the groove.  Two sides should be groove with an extended leg, two sides are tongue.  Don't lay overly tite and maintain a very straight line.  Any deviation multiplies itself.  These weren't laser cut perfect on the old ones, can't imagine they've improved on the way they were originally done.  Expect some expansion as they are a paper product, that's why I suggest you don't pack em in too tight.  I believe it is possible to stair step them, but cant recall if that makes it easier or not.   And I've removed some set with mastic, tho have never done that type of install.

   or, open the box and read the instructions which should be in the pkg.  Maybe try armstrongs website for details.  http://www.ceilings.com/resceilingsna/tilei_e.jsp  Best of luck.

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    

    

2. 
   Davo304 | May 17, 2002 04:30am | #2

   Calvin gave you the right info.  Use Ceiling Tile staples (they're marked on the box). Use a hand held staple gun (Hammer tacker is out unless you got a perrrrrfect swing; ha! ha!). You can use an electric staple gun, but most instructions advise against this useage. The main reason is that they believe an electric gun will shoot the staple too hard and cause damage to the tongue of the ceiling tile.

   If you are careful not to hold too much pressure on the electric gun when firing, it will work just fine. This is what I use.

   Buy your ceiling tile, open the boxes at one end, and store the tile in the room ( or nearby) that you plan on tiling. Let the tiles sit in that room for at least 24 hours before attempting to install. Longer they acclimate to the room's temperature/humidity level, the better for you.

   Do not pack the tiles tightly together when installing...the T&G should fit snugly but that's it. Some people take a block of wood and beat the tile in place...tile will look good for a few days, then will expand and job looks like hell.

   Lay out tile so your border tile along the walls will be equal in size. Looks shabby to have tile cut 8 inches wide on one end, and 4 inches wide on opposite end.

   Your ceiling tile will only lay as good as the furring looks. Check your furring strips with a string line at various spots and check for high/low spots. Shim or plane where needed to give you a dead flat ceiling. It's better to use drywall screws rather than nails when attaching your furring strips...nails can lose their grip and furring could sag....screws are better insurance ( yeh, I know it's easier to shoot em up with nails; but you asked.)

   Like Calvin mentioned, every box of ceiling tile comes with a set of installation instructions inside. Read them, follow it, and everything should turn out really good.

   OH, yea, if you have a SCMS, use it to cut your tile. Put a piece of scrap wood (1/2 inch plywood works great) on the saw base and make a slight kerf cut through it. Then place your tile on this wood base and pull your saw through the cut. Put tile good face up when cutting.  This will give you a nice clean edge. Better than using a razor knife.

   Razor knife works too but is rather slow. Score tile face side up with razor. Pass knife 2 or 3 passes to score at least halfway through it, then snap off the edge. Use the cut-off end to lightly sand the edge of the cut piece you intend to install.

   LOL.

   Davo

1. 
   joeblack112 | May 24, 2002 04:42am | #5

   What is an SCMS?

1. 
   RichBeckman | May 24, 2002 07:11am | #6

   SCMS: sliding compound mitre saw.

   Rich Beckman

2. 
   Davo304 | May 24, 2002 09:12am | #7

   Rich is right...Sliding Compound Miter Saw. Mine is a 10inch Hitachi. Bought it a year ago through Tool Crib for under $500. Came with two 72 tooth carbide blades. I like it a lot!

   Davo

3. 
   RichBeckman | May 17, 2002 07:15am | #3

   Good advice above. I've only done this a couple of times. Most recently, I was two thirds of the way through the job when it finally occurred to me why I was having so much trouble maintaining a straight line. The tiles were clearly (once I was looking for it!) not cut consistently. The job ended up looking ok, but it required constant attention and careful choosing of which tile to use at each location.

   Next time I'll be sure to examine the cut of the tiles before I start and take them back if they're bad.

   Rich Beckman

1. 
   cutawooda | May 20, 2002 06:23am | #4

   I got about 200ft laid on monday. 2 things worry me. They were left on his out door porch before I got to them. I think one day only. It was covered but it was raining hard. Do these tile absorb moisture and swell. If so they will contract once I installed them. I noticed that they go in easy enough but Damn are those edges easy to break! Some of them went in a little  tight because I started getting pinched by one inside corner. I have another 250 feet to do tomorrow, around a corner and into the kitchen, ( lots of cutting,). This is one of those job that you don't know how it will turnout until you get to the last 30 tiles...I dont like that much. so far so good though.

   thanks for the help