I am building a soundproof wall. It consists of metal furring channel, a layer of fire code 5/8” drywall, green glue in between, another layer of fire code 5/8” drywall. My dilemma is how to attach 3/4” pine 1 x 10 shiplap to this assembly. I was going to use PL Premium on the back and using 2” Brad nails into the drywall to hold till the glue drys. Does anybody agree or have another idea.
regards,
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Replies
Finishing screws.
Screwing finishing screws into what, the double layer of drywall? I’m trying not to screw into wood or the metal furring channel as this defeats the purpose of the soundproofing. As for finishing screws do you mean trim screws which have a small head.
Yes trim screws. I can’t see how screwing them into your channel would compromise your sound proofing. Just avoid the studs. You’d be better off isolating both sides of the wall with studs for each side.
I wonder if you could use a couple patches of contact cement to hold the material in place till the PL sets. The shiplap would have to be fairly straight and flat I suppose.
You can also use sticks from the opposite wall to "clamp" a handful of boards at a time.
The wall is 12’ away. I do like the contact cement idea. The nails or screws will only have 1 1/4” of drywall to hold in. I’m hoping the nails will hold until the PL sets up. Thanks.
If the floor and or ceiling isn't finished, you can set a block to shorten the props length.
And I've propped things well over 12' too.
Problem with that is the ceiling is a metal faced 6” foam board panel that is finished.
Take a look at one of the Powergrab products from Loctite.
Some quicker than others. Blobs after you apply the PL. Use a large roller to press the board into your applied adhesive.
Use in conjunction with PL Premium and cross nail (the recessed ship) with a finish gun into your dbl. drywall. Cross nail the lap also.
Don’t count on flattening any warp.
At first, I don't know how to install after the searching. I got an idea about installing.
Any particular powergrab product you would recommend? There are so many different ones. So if I understand correctly you would put the powergrab along the length of the lip of the previous board, then attach the next one and put nails into the lip. Is this correct?
Sorry for confusing you. Watching Olympics and trying to type don’t mix so good.
Check out the types of powergrab and see what works for you. Some are quick set so you’ll have to find your comfort zone on which to us.
No, I did not mean for you to use it on the lap. I was thinking more this way. PL Premium takes a while to set so I would utilize the PL for the long term adhesion and the powergrab for initial bond.
The cross nail is to hold the board as tight as possible until the whole system sets.
Two nails in opposing direction thought the board into the drywall. Nailing through the lip first will be covered with the next board. You’ll still have to face nail.
I have used this method on some smaller fastening of trims and maybe some sheetgoods. It has worked,
Even with the glue I would prefinish paint or stain on the show side as even with the glueing you might gets some movement.
Be sure of fits prior to glueing as this whole operation screams a sloppy mess. And more doesn’t necessarily mean better. Damn PL likes to continue coming out of the tube. That’s why I mentioned “blobs”. Think of these blobs like fasteners.
Might see if there isn’t a canned urethane adhesive available and use small blobs with a putty knife. Full spread would be great but UGH.
The pine shiplap is primed and finish painted already.
Good advice. Thank you.