Replies

1. 
   Dale_Buchanan | Dec 04, 2000 04:45am | #1

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   Bill: Rip the tongue, not necessary, and place over rim joist. You will have to use a short 2x4x4' long to use to drive the rest of the tongues into the grooves. If your gluing the floor down run a bead of construction (sub floor) adhesive in the groove. Good Luck. Dale

1. 
   Wes_S. | Dec 04, 2000 05:15am | #2

   *Bill -I'll go easy on you given that I'm fairly new to this much needed & highly respectable forum. NOT ONLY DO YOU START W/ THE TONGUE ON THE RIM JOIST W/ THE GROOVE AWAY FROM YOU BUT-------- you need to plan & assure you end up w/ a sizable end rip ( 12" or more ) With all due respect that's all I'll say. There is so much to this basic aspect of construction ,the fact you asked the ? implies you need to learn more .(BASIC CARPENTRY----any bookstore ) Now--- which end of this scalpel do I cut with ?

1. 
   Matt_G. | Dec 04, 2000 06:30am | #3

   *Bill:Good advice above. A few things to add: pop a chalk line 4' in to make a strait line of your first course of T&G. It makes the rest of the job go much smoother. You can even hold the tongue of the first course in from the outer edge of the rim a bit just to make sure that none of it hangs out. Also, you may want to check manufacturer's install instructions for the T&G - many types require spacing at the butt ends. Wes:Since you're new to this forum stuff I'll go easy on ya... ;^) upper case typing is considered shouting. Since we're all learning, I'll tell you that if you want to emphasize text you can b bold it by putting a b at the beginning of a new line followed by the text you want to emphasize. Or, you can i italicize text by putting a lower case i at the beginning of the line. This is covered in the "quick edit help" as well as in the text just above the "Post a New Message" edit window.

1. 
   Bill_Edmond | Dec 04, 2000 07:00am | #4

   *Hey Wes,Why did you go easy on me in this Highly Respectable Forum? Why didn't you just really tell me how absolutely ludicrous my question was. And by the way, why didn't you explain exactly WHY you install the groove edge first while you were being so absolutely arrogant.

1. 
   Wes_S. | Dec 04, 2000 07:07am | #5

   *Thank you Matt. I appreciate any and all tips. I was of course only trying to emphasize a point. You could write for hours on tips & techniques (sounds familiar) . How much info do we give on this topic?. (Sarcastically)---He only asked which way to start , yet we presume we need to tell him which steps to take to finish.

2. 
   Tim_Kline | Dec 04, 2000 08:48am | #6

   *b WBA At Your ServiceEasy big fella, put the scalpel down......

3. 
   calvin_ | Dec 04, 2000 02:27pm | #7

   *Bill, Tongue to groove, so's when you bash the 2x4x4' block you don't ruin the tongue. And pull layout on that groove edge. Best of luck. Never back up.

4. 
   SamD_ | Dec 04, 2000 02:57pm | #8

   *Easy there Wes, Bill was asking a concise question and that's all he asked- no more. Sam

5. 
   jason_mis | Dec 05, 2000 10:47pm | #9

   *Bill, there is no need to rip the tongue off of the sheet,snap a line at 48 1/4" perpendicular with the floor joists and use that as your base line.. exterior wall plates will cover the tongue.. Is this new framing? or are you remodeling? Jason

6. 
   GACC_DAllas | Dec 06, 2000 06:00am | #10

   *I run the groove side flush with the rim joist and use a scrap of the T&G ply as a beating block to snug up the sheets. That way you don't beat up the tounge. Not too snug mind you.Ed. Williams

7. 
   jim_at_great_white | Dec 06, 2000 07:32am | #11

   *Line at 48 and a half set groove edge to line and go. Try not to have to use beater block. Put a 16 penny in the corner and swing it in place. With alittle practice you can really fly doing it this way.jim

8. 
   Matt_G. | Dec 06, 2000 02:17pm | #12

   *Ed and Jim make a good point. A lot of green horns get carried away with the beater block. Just Snug is the key. Some types of T&G are designed to be self-spacing on the T&G edges, as long as it's installed i just sung.

9. 
   Wes_S. | Dec 07, 2000 06:56am | #13

   *Bill, -Looking over my 1st post, I guess I did come off as somewhat of a jerk.I sincerely appologize. Hard to tell my tongue was in my cheek. To clarify my point though: Keep in mind ,the overall finish width of the sheet is 47 1/2" (+1/2"for the tongue=48") . So for every 4' course you lose 1/2" .In 32',your'e 4" shy of the other rim joist (and If you have an odd dimension make sure you don't end up w/ a small rip on your last row , (unless another layer of subfloor is going down) . Be wary, Iv'e had lifts of T&G delivered w/ sheets that were out of square up to 1/8".good luck

10. 
    jeff_ford | Dec 07, 2000 08:21am | #14

    *I think we can all agree that there are many ways to skin the cat.No one is wrong in there method and everyone has there own way of doing things.I just wish that we could respect each others opinions for what they are..opinions.Lately the discussions have strayed far from the topic into pissing contests that make this place unpleasant.Just remember the first day you walked onto a site and how little you knew.Ps dont forget to stagger your joints in the ply.

11. 
    Dave_Richeson | Dec 08, 2000 03:06am | #15

    *I once got a unit of T&G that did not flush up when the tongue mated with the groove. There was over a 1/16" step at each joint. Of course it was glued and nailed off before I caught it. Half a unit went back and free floor stone for what was down. I hate it when I have to tell a client I didn't catch the bad material in time to do the job right. A lesson learned....Dave

12. 
    Matt_Nicholas | Dec 10, 2000 11:40pm | #16

    *Bill and assorted Gentlemen,Like Wes pointed out, the T&G sheets lie to us. (they're not 4' wide but 47 1/2") I have made it point to make sure that I check whether the deck works to a 24" module, so that any rip is at least that. If things work out, I prefer to plan my sheets so that the T&G seam nearest a beam in the floor(where conventional joists "shake hands"),is centered above that beam. When you reach that point, it makes the 1 1/2" lateral shift easier, without the need to scab on blocking every 8'. This cat is well skinned. Just do yourself a favor and plan for your sheathing when you begin framing the floor so that you can use as many full pieces as possible. (always space the sheets as the manufacturer recommends & use a 6' beater, it's easier) Good luck, be safe and love your work.

13. 
    Lone_Wolf_Construction | Dec 12, 2000 06:02pm | #17

    *I use all the techniques posted with one addition. I use a scrap of 2x6 green treat as a beater (usually wet so it lasts longer) and attach a loop of metal banding (finally a use for that stuff) on the board. It stands up so you can grab it off the joists without getting full of glue.~Greg

2. 
   Bill_Edmond | Dec 12, 2000 06:02pm | #18

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   Gentlemen,

   How do you start the first course of a TIG subfloor? by ripping the tongue and aligning this edge over the rim joist edge, or ripping the groove and starting with that edge.

   Thanks in advance.