Replies

1. 
   RichinVA | Mar 19, 2019 06:57am | #1

   Can you access the underside?
   Reasoning behind wanting to use sleepers vs. jacking the floor?
   Type of construction?
   Is there a girder in there?
   Did your PE recommend any particular course of action?

2. 
   florida | Mar 19, 2019 10:33am | #2

   As long as the floor is stable you could hire a concrete contractor to pour self-leveling concrete onto the floor. It's made with gypsum so is fairly lightweight.

3. 
   RichinVA | Mar 19, 2019 02:15pm | #3

   Did I miss the part about it being a concrete floor?

1. 
   florida | Mar 20, 2019 02:15pm | #5

   It's not but makes no difference since self-leveling concrete is made to go over any type floor.

4. FHB Editor
   JFink | Mar 20, 2019 01:29pm | #4

   If the floor is stable, you could use the self leveler mentioned above, but that might cost more than you think. You can accomplish the same end result by padding the low spot up using additional layers of sheathing, glued well and nailed through to the joists. With sheet goods ranging in thickness from 3/4, 5/8, 1/2, 3/8. 1/4, 1/8 it's pretty easy to combine things as needed to suit the situation.

   - Justin
   Fine Homebuilding

5. FHB Editor
   rwotzak | Apr 05, 2019 09:01am | #6

   Hi AJEWOODWORK,

   I just want to let you know that we discussed your question on the FHB podcast:
   https://www.finehomebuilding.com/2019/04/05/podcast-episode-174-level-sagging-floor

   I can't promise that we came up with one perfect answer, but we had a great conversation about leveling saggy floors! I hope you found a suitable solution to your problem...perhaps Justin's suggestions above.

   - Rob W.
   Fine Homebuilding

6. 
   chrisg_nc | Apr 06, 2019 10:52am | #7

   Another idea which may or may not be for you:
   I have leveled joists by scribing dimensional lumber, cutting and installing.
   More specifically:
   1) project horizontal laser so that beam is heading perpendicular to joists
   2) flatten 2x4’ one face with a jointer- this will be the new top
   3) clamp 2x4 to floor joist, aligning the top to laser
   4) scribe interface of old joists to new joists. I like a sharpie
   5) use a bandsaw to cut up to the line. Kerf will be on waste side. Your cut:line relationship must be consistent. Use a sander to touch up areas where you strayed from the line.
   6) place newly cut to scribe joist cap and make sure it hits laser.
   7) nail/glue
   8) next

   Once you are set up to go it actually moves pretty quickly. You do have a big room, though. I assume that you have joist obstacles that prevent simple sister-in-law of flat dimensional lumber.

7. 
   ct_yankee | Apr 08, 2019 04:51pm | #8

   What is not clear is whether or not you'll be stripping the floor down to bare joists. If so, I would consider ripping top quality 3/4" plywood into 6"+ strips X 8' long. Working from a reference plane above the floor, glue & screw the strips to the sides of the existing joists, with their top edge matching the highest existing point of the room's joists. Start with an 8' long strip centered on the mid-point of the joists' span. These alone will add some stiffness to the floor. I would also add blocking between the joists (staggered about 2") that is attached with structural screws top & bottom.