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How to make a sturdy half-wall

RonMiller | Posted in General Discussion on October 14, 2008 11:30am

I need to build a half wall for a warehouse remodel. It’s 18 feet long, 40 – 45 inches high, standard 2×4 studs with 1/2″ drywall. I plan to anchor it to the concrete floor and the one concrete wall it rests against with bolts. Otherwise, the entire length is unsupported. While I assume the drywall will make it rigid, I’m concerned that the wall will be wobbly? If so, what can I do about that? All I could think of was run a 2×4 up to tie into the ceiling but that’s 25 feet up…

TIA for your advice.

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  1. jesse | Oct 14, 2008 11:45pm | #1

    Well, if you assemble the wall with screws, glue it down to the slab with PL Premium, and then glue the drywall on, you MIGHT have a chance. But I wouldn't hold my breath.

  2. seeyou | Oct 15, 2008 12:05am | #2

    Drill some rebar/anchor bolts into the existing concrete where the bottom plate would lay. Use PT for the studs and frame your wall without a bottom plate. Shoot some galv nails into the bottom foot of each stud so they extend into the stud bay (or bore an anchor bolt thru each stud). Attach 1' tall plywood rips on either side of the bottom of the studs and stand it up and secure it in place. Fill between the plywood rips with concrete. Let it set, pull your forms and drywall.

    View Image

  3. spike999250 | Oct 15, 2008 12:17am | #3

     I seem to remember an old article in the mag about something similar, I think the guy filled the wall 1/2 to 3/4 with crete , maybe you could use lightweight stuff, and some dowels in the floor.

  4. MSLiechty | Oct 15, 2008 12:54am | #4

    Typical low wall construction is 1- 1/2 square tubing welded to a square plate that is bolted to the slab and then welded or bolted through the studs. That how its done in typical T.I. environment in the high rises we work in.

    ML

  5. FastEddie | Oct 15, 2008 02:39am | #5

    Are you restricted to standard wall dimensions?  Fasten the bottom plate securely to ther floor, add a full layer of 1/2" plywood to one side, then sheetrock over that for finishing.  the wall only grows 1/2" but gains a lot of strength.  Just be sure Sparky knows to put the j-boxes out a little further on that side.  If you must maintain the standard wall dimension, rip the studs 1/2" narrower.  Even better, build the wall with 2x6 studs.

    "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

  6. dug | Oct 15, 2008 02:40am | #6

    I'd drill a hole through the plates to fit a 1'' pipe and into the concrete. Epoxy it in the floor and at all the plates.

      Flush it at the top plate and cover as usual.  Take maybe 5 min. per pipe and your done. Space them as needed.

      It worked for me.

      dug

  7. User avater
    shelternerd | Oct 15, 2008 02:43am | #7

    Drill and epoxy a threaded rod into the floor that extends about 3/4 of the height of the knee wall. but a double 2x4 on the flat drilled to accommodate the threaded rod with at least one jack under each side crank the double plate down onto the jacks compressing the whole mess down into the floor. Glue and sheath both sides w/ 1/2" OSB before sheetrock. One of these every four feet should take care of it.

    m

    ------------------

    "You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."

  8. DonNH | Oct 15, 2008 02:52am | #8

    If you take one of the suggestions involving anchoring down into the slab, I would suggest putting the anchors out towards the edge of the plate, alternating from side to side, rather than right in the middle.  Should give better resistance to wobbling.

    Don

  9. RW | Oct 15, 2008 03:40am | #9

    No matter how well you anchor the plate the wall is going to rock. MS got it. You have to use square tube, that has to be bolted in or epoxied into the crete, and then anchored to the studs. Everything else is going to tip right over the first time someone bangs into it. Think about the leverage going on. You're basically building a 4' prybar and hoping to hold it steady with framing nails otherwise.

    Real trucks dont have sparkplugs

  10. User avater
    basswood | Oct 15, 2008 05:12am | #10

    I did a wall like that in a restaurant, but I used 2x6 and screwed the assembly together, PL premium between plate and floor and tapcons. It is very sturdy.

    It never hurts to ask if a small jog in the wall or a turn at the end of the wall would improve the design, by making a nook for a water cooler or copy machine, etc. Any small right angle turn adds stability, and could improve function too.

    1. comfun1 | Oct 15, 2008 06:55pm | #11

      Find out how solid they expect the wall to be.  Price and build accordingly.  If necessary, jackhammer holes in the floor and place pipe or tubing the size of your studs in the holes and pour concrete around and in them.  Install top plate and bottom plate, fill in with studs and 3/4 ply, finish the way you want and presto - indestructible.  If it's an industrial setting this may be necessary.

  11. Pierre1 | Oct 15, 2008 07:29pm | #12

    Another approach would be to place the wall under compression, from above.

    A 3/4" or larger pipe, threaded onto a flange at each end, would enable you to apply vertical compressive forces. Fasten flanges to the ceiling (probably requires blocking behind finished ceiling) and to the wall's top plate. Turn pipe to adjust the compressive force. If you can install two of these pipes - and use several of the suggestions made by others - you'd end up with very little deflection.

     

  12. Kilroy | Oct 17, 2008 06:43am | #13

    Have you seen the brick wall that Thomas Jefferson built at the University of Virginia? He designed a brick wall that would not fall down. It curves in a sine wave - the curves stabilize the wall against lateral forces. So, in order to keep your wall stable, put curves into it.

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