Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 08:03am | #1

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   Using standard "chair rail" moulding? How about using a nosing (bull nose) cap, with a shingle mould below? Match the mouldings, have the nosing extend 3/4" over, radius to the door trim.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 08:05am | #2

   *The way I always that is based on the way I've seen it done in a lot of old houses, victorians and colonials.When you reach a door or window casing, simply mitre and return the chair rail back into the wall.Then, instead of having a square cut rail butt against an obviously thinner casing, the end of the rail appears to have been coped to it's face profile, much like you might do to the ends of a window apron. The part of the rail which is thickest just touches the casing.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 08:15am | #3

   *CarpFromVA,Like JayA, my vote would be for the returned end on the chair rail just before it reaches the casing.No good way to member the two trims together.You might try a mock up of several different things. Maybe the chair rail could return and just lay over the casing a little bit.George has a good idea, but I would like to see it first.Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 08:40am | #4

   *Carp,I pondered the same thing several yrs back. After visiting Colonial WIlliamsbug a bunch of times and paying close attention to the moulding details there, I choose to use a 2 piece chair. The first piece is a 7/16x4" beaded backband with a chair over that. I but the backband to the casing and leave the chair rail back 1" and use a mitred return. This makes painting and/or wallpapering above or below the chair a breeze and it looks clean. This detail shows up in a lot of the historical homes. If you don't want a backband, then use mitred returns and stop them 1" back from the casing or run the return up to the casing.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 08:56am | #5

   *Another method to add to the above. Cut the chair rail sq. against the casing then mark a line on the end of the rail using the face of the casing as your pencil guide. Place the rail in your miter box and cut from the line to the face of the rail. You can use 45,30, or what ever angle that looks good to your eye. I have also seen this done only round the corner in lieu of the angle cut. Do take the advise and make up some samples to look at. Ron.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 09:14am | #6

   *If you return it back to the wall with a 45 like Jay suggests, I like to "come farther" so that the SHORTEST point of the return just touches the casing. The top would then land ON the casing and there wouldn't be that little funny shaped patch of wall showing underneath. This is really dependent on how much "flat" you have on the edge of your casing though. - jb

3. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 05:03pm | #7

   *CarpFromVA

   Your co-workers suggestion is the good one, this is a typical action taken in this circumstance. It actually looks rather good. The alternative method would be to add a back band to the doors to bring the casing out passed the chair rail.

   Joseph FuscoView Image

4. 
   Guest_ | Jun 23, 1999 09:18pm | #8

   *Carp,Before ruling out a change in casing because several doors are close together, consider that as long as there is room between the outside doors (or windows) and the adjacent walls the problem is not insurmountable. If you were to select a 5/4 casing that starts with a bead, goes into a flat then into some sort of backband, it is relatively easy to mill stock with a router, beaded on each edge, to jack-miter into the head casing which will span the rack of doors. This is a common problem with all architecturally designed homes, particularly in bedrooms, where closets are typically located next the the hallway door.If the above is not an option or not worth the expense, I would tone down the chair rail. It will overpower 2 1/4" casing and in my viewpoint not look good. George's suggestion to use a two piece chair rail is a good one; bullnose a 3/4" board, and install a thin molding under it. Return the molding to itself and butt it to the casing. Extend the bullnose cap return (or routed end grain which is more traditional and more functional) over the casing just far enough to look good.Stopping the chair rail short will not look right at all.If you are after more pizzaz for little cost, add some shadow molding under the chair rail; some simple band molding or something mitered, glued and shot as panels onto the drywall between chair rail and base.Clampman

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 24, 1999 03:32am | #9

   *Carp, here in Williamsburg VA, we routinely apply chair rail exactly as kcoyner described in his post. The chair rail can look sort of lost and lonesome without a back band.If you're committed to using 2-1/4" colonial casing rather than 3-1/4", you might want to apply a back band as Joe Fusco suggested. The casing won't look so wimpy then. If it's not too late, use 4-1/4 base, so the chair rail doesn't look overly heavy in proportion.Good luck, Steve

6. 
   Guest_ | Jun 24, 1999 06:59am | #10

   *Sorry, Carp, I forgot the references...WM-956W 7/16 x 4-1/4 beaded chair rail back, orWM-304 9/16 x 4-1/4 beaded chair rail back, andWM-281 11/16 x 1-1/8 back band orLWM-281 11/16 x 1-3/16 back band Also,WM-620 9/16 x 4-1/4 colonial base, orWM-618 9/16 x 5-1/4 colonial base, orWM-750 9/16 x 4-1/4 beaded base, orWM-750W 9/16 x 5-1/4 beaded baseHope this helps, Steve

7. 
   Guest_ | Jun 25, 1999 03:40am | #11

   *the 2 pc chair rail that kcoyner suggests is the way the house I live in is done. Looks good to me.

8. 
   Guest_ | Jun 25, 1999 03:52am | #13

   *Rabbit out the backside of the chair rail. Run the chair rail onto and over the casing for about an inch or so, and return miter it into the casing.

2. 
   CarpFromVA | Jun 25, 1999 03:52am | #12

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   I'm planning a retrim on my house. The doors are cased with WM376 (DC98) 11/16x2-1/4 colonial casing. Because several doors were set very close together many years ago, I'm stuck with that. I want to add a chair rail around an 1" to 1-1/8" thick but don't know how to detail the thicker chair to the casing, if it can be done. A co-worker suggested stopping the chair about 1" shy from the casing. Any other ideas out there?