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How to plan a garbage and compost area?

| Posted in General Discussion on July 6, 2005 10:49am

I am remodeling my kitchen and have a 4x 4 foot island where I want to put the garbage and compost containers in drawers so I can work and sweep everyting into the appropiate trash cans. I need to spec this out for the cabinet maker. Are there any rules of thumb? Is a 30 quart garbage can a big enough for a family of four with young children? What size for compost? I have about 30″ x 16″ space to work with. This space also is directly across from the sink and dishwasher. Is it possible to get a system that you can open when your hands are full? Where do you buy It?
Any suggestions would be helpful. The garbage is used all the time and want to make it handy.

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  1. zendo | Jul 06, 2005 10:55pm | #1

    In,

    I dont know if you want a large compost container.  They start to stink fast, even a 2 gallon is pretty serious. 

    I used a normal container for years then switched to a compost container that went on the counter with a carbon filter lid.  Its incredible how well it works.  You dont smell anything until you open it.  We do have to empty a 2 gallon fairly frequently, but even with just that there is usually some mold growth at the bottom.

    I got a brushed stainless one at a health food store, but I have also seen ceramic, and found them in gardeners magazines as well.

    -zen

    1. inseattle | Jul 06, 2005 11:07pm | #2

      You are right. I was thinking of just a small compost bin. It sounds like a can with a lid might work best and just leave it on the counter when not in use.
      I was going to put the reclying in a panrty across the room. We don't have a lot of space, but maybe I have room for a recycling of paper goods with the trash area?

  2. User avater
    CapnMac | Jul 06, 2005 11:07pm | #3

    Amerock sells a slide-out for a 30qt, IIRC.  It wants 19" tall, so it will often fit below a "standard" 5" tall drawer opening.  The unit has a lid & a deoderant, too, to make for a nice trash can.

    Now, my kitchen preference is for a 13 gallon can, which needs a full height door for access.  I like a (cabinet) floor mounted roll-out with 300# full extension slides (not that the trashcan gets that heavy, just that the slides seem to last longer).

    For "hands free," my experience is that a hole in the counter (with a nice wooden lid for the "not cooking" times) over the trashcan on a roll out is a very elegant install. 

    If you can narrow what you want, like a 13 gallon trash and 30qt "food scraps" for the compost, or 2 30qt trash cans, then, usually the cabinet maker already has either a preferred or and in-stock way of doing that.  If you can, ask to see their trash can unit installed. 

    Now, I have no good experiences with tip-out trashcans (and that's designing the cabinets, building the cabinets, installing the cabinets, and using the cabinet, too)--so, I avoid them.  Others like them just fine.

    Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
    1. inseattle | Jul 06, 2005 11:31pm | #4

      I like the idea of a 13 gallon trash can and I've always wanted to cut a hole and swoosh everything in. How wide a hole do I need? I also wanted the cans rim to be just below the counter height so the garbage is less likely to hit the floor so it sounds like a this will be tall enough or I can mount it on a cabinet roll out like you suggested with the 300# slides to be just below counter height can't I? What kind of cabinet space does a 13 gallon can require?

      Edited 7/6/2005 4:33 pm ET by in seattle

      1. User avater
        CapnMac | Jul 07, 2005 01:06am | #6

        How wide a hole do I need?

        Down to the assembled cabinet & countertop.

        Now, IIRC, a 13 gallon can is about 26-27", or about as tall as will go into 34 1/2" tall (36" tall counter top) base cabients.  I saw a slick install where the countertop man let in a 30 qt can into the counter top, and cut the bottom off of it to fit the can below (can has a taper already) to funnel things into the can.  There was a breadboard top with a rabbet milled to match the countertop cutout.  It was slick excepting only one thing, the lip of the "sacrificed" can should have been cut as the top of the rounded lip--would have saved a tube or two of clear silicone.

        Real dimensions?  About 50-60% of the clear opening of the 13 gallon can (rectangluar will be better than round.

        I have since recollected of a spin-out can that was not bad.  The cabinet frame, door, and toe kick were all pinned together, and put on about 4 pair os SOSS hinges, with a disrete (but stout, about 3/4" dia) dowel near the hinge.  To get the trash can out, you just nudged the dowel, and the whol kit an aboodle swung out on a chain stop--but, there was the can, fully accessible; either for loading or taking out the trash.

        Bit more "engineering" in that one than your millwork man might want to spend in your money, too.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

  3. pm22 | Jul 07, 2005 12:16am | #5

    Be religious about emptying the compost bin

    Day of the Maggots

    In days of yore, during the hippie period, I lived in an old mansion with two kitchens, four fireplaces, etc. In the main kitchen we had a compost container, a two gallon plastic bucket. It was Doug's job to empty it since he was the resident gardener [good at growing a certain type of cactus]. Due to his proclivity at testing his various vegetative produce, he was not very diligent at emptying said container.
    Hence one morning, Susan Smith and I went down to have breakfast -- er coffee -- and the floor was covered with maggots. That is, one every three inches, crawing everywhere. Maggots are insensitive to full strength bleach and invulnerable to insecticide. Stepping on them works.
    Ah, let's go to school/work and let Doug handle it.

    ~Peter

  4. junkhound | Jul 07, 2005 05:12am | #7

    We like to keep the compost pile within throwing distance of the kitchen door. Most stuff never gets a chance to compost, the critters eat it all first usually. Just 6mi outside of se seattle city limits.

    1. inseattle | Jul 09, 2005 01:31am | #8

      I didn't want to eat up my island space with the common 22" deep systems on the market and I wanted to get the garbage out from under the sink where someone was usually working and closer to the area where I would be doing the prep work.I think I've got it. I've opted for one large 50 gallon plastic garbage container.It is 11 1/4 " wide, 15 5/8" deep and 23 3/4" high and will fit in a 16" by 14" cabinet open drawer allowing room for more drawer space on the island and overhang for pulling up stools at the other end.I will have it built as close to the top of the counter as possible for swooshing trash from the prep area and scraping dishes before loading into the dish washer opposite (no stooping) with a drawer for garbage bags below. I amy still put a hole over the drawer if I use a soapstone for the counter but not if I go butcher block.I will also ask the cabinet maker about options for opening the drawer without using your hands. Any suggestion here?I will use a small compost container on the counter.Recyclables will be in a 12" deep pantry using one large 23 gallon Slim Jim
      23 1/8Lx11Wx30H beneath a 36" High shelf with a microwave and pantry items above that. I hope this works , Thank you all for your help. In Seattle

      1. zendo | Jul 24, 2005 12:11am | #9

        In,

        Sorry... I just got a message today that you had posted back to me.  Ive been on here hundreds of times since your message.

        -zen

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