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How to remove/replace this window?

PatchogPhil | Posted in Construction Techniques on July 20, 2004 04:58am

My neighbors Andersen window has a sash that has basically fallen apart.  He wants to replace the window with minimal destruction (i.e. don’t remove the exterior cement/asbestos siding).  Also he wants wood interior sash with no maintenance exterior (vinyl prefered).  Jeld-Wen has something – wood interior painted alum exterior, replacement sashes with jamb liners.

How does one remove the guts of this window?  If the jamb screws (see photo) are removed will the jamb tracks come out and enable a “replacement” window to be installed without removing the rest of the window and any of those asbestos shingles?  Will the guts be able to be put it back after proper measurements for replacements so the window operates until replacements arrive? Or will the guts “sproing” apart and not go back together?

Another possible option?  Can just new Andersen sashes be installed?

TIA,

Phil

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Replies

  1. geob21 | Jul 20, 2004 05:23am | #1

    Call Andersen. They'll need some information from the glass etching but if it can be replaced they surely will know.

    If the window is mid 70's and fell apart I believe they have a special deal to upgrade it to a 400 series. Disclaimer here is "I think"...and this depends if the original builder installed it correctly (which is about a 1 in 50 chance).

    1. Piffin | Jul 20, 2004 06:06am | #2

      Andersen still makes parts and can replace any portion of any window they ever made. 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  2. IronHelix | Jul 20, 2004 02:29pm | #3

    Looks as if you have already removed the bad sash from the window frame.

    The sash glides and balances will come out if you remove the glide screws and the plastic trim liners. Behind the top trim in the head frame will be the balance mechanism for each side...it can be removed or replaced.

    As Piffin said...all parts are available.....but call for your local rep because as mentioned there are some series of windows that still have replacement warranties in place due to faulty manufacturing specs.

    From the looks of the window in the second photos the sill is probably rotted away under the vinyl.....check it out fro the inside by removing the lower window mouldings and probing the sill.

    If the sill is shot then you will need to look at a complete replacement and this will probably involve the cement siding that you were hoping not to disturb.

    I would suspect the siding/window juncture allowed water to migrate into the frame and slowly rot away the wooden backer parts.

    Anderson Window parts are available at 1-800-426-4261.  Credit cards accepted. Have the sash glass daylight opening size and the units size at hand.

    Good Luck.................Iron Helix

    1. edwardh1 | Jul 20, 2004 02:33pm | #4

      do any window makers use treated wood on the non window frame parts? that is the sill and side pieces?

      1. User avater
        BillHartmann | Jul 20, 2004 07:12pm | #6

        "do any window makers use treated wood on the non window frame parts? that is the sill and side pieces?"

        Yes, but not the common presusred treated material.

        I am not sure what they use, probably a copper or zince based protectant water repellant.

        I believe that it was Andersen, but might have been another window company, that had a number of window failures about 10 (15 - 20?) years ago and sued their chemical supplier and I think won over this problem.

        1. xMikeSmith | Jul 21, 2004 03:19am | #7

          that was Marvin... the wood treatment failed and the jambs and casings all rotted out.. big replacement programMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

    2. PatchogPhil | Jul 20, 2004 04:54pm | #5

      Thanks for the info about Anderson.

      The sash(es) are still there,  just both are raised in the picture.  The top sash is the one that it's bottom piece is "hanging" by a thread.  Did not want to even touch it lest it completely fall out.

      I'll give this info to my neighbor.  I feel bad for him,  he is partially disabled and hasn't been able to get any contractors to keep an appt to look at this window.  

      Thanks again.

      Walk Good

  3. dbanes | Jul 21, 2004 06:00am | #8

    What I see first is plenty hair but no beer gut... all jesting set aside...

    You want to know how to remove it...

    Here in Texas,  I consider our market in window replacements far behind the north, but we can tear out any-thin,,,On your interior,remove any and all jambs and returns other than the actual window parts ,remove the active sashes, remove the fixed sash,(if you must eliminate it pane by pane) collapse the frame by prying (from interior) the or a piece of the frame away from the building frame,we "break out" aluminum frames here starting with a sawzall at this point... after the first side it crumbles like devil's food...the nailing flanges are usually never any thing tougher than aluminum and when persuaded this way will eventually let go of the nails...Never having opened the siding or trim...

    NO CHARGE...

    (this credit to unknown) LIFE IS SO SHORT,YET THE CRAFT SO LONG TO MASTER
    1. PatchogPhil | Jul 21, 2004 05:02pm | #9

      My other arm isn't long enough to get my gut into the picture with the window too. Besides,  the gut was anchoring me to the sill so I didn't fall out the window!

      I've nailed up plenty of the newer Andersons, with the vinyl nailing flange.  It's just a strip pushed into a slot in the outside frame held in with some kinda barbed edge.  I imagine that those flanges would stay nailed in place when the frame was pryed out (which is OKAY).  Were the flanges of the 1970's era Andersons built with the same kinda flange?

      1. dbanes | Jul 21, 2004 07:26pm | #10

        I can't help much on that specific product detail,but I expect when you get this old fixture out you may need that same type window in order to match the rest,If it has a removable nail flange you'll be good to go, just let us know if you need help putting in the new one... I usually go with 2 3" screws both "north & south" on the sides, then the returns and trims are what really gives it the firm mount to the building frame...(this credit to unknown) LIFE IS SO SHORT,YET THE CRAFT SO LONG TO MASTER

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