Is it possible to replace rotten overhang boards in a historic Craftsman house without removing the roofing? I believe the boards are tongue and groove, but am not certain yet.
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Replies
What is the condition of your roof now. The second picture shingles look bad.
Can you post a close up of the overhang?
Hi Calvin, Thanks for your response. The roofing looks OK. Attached are few more pictures, including some upclose shots of the overhang.
Damned if my reply was swept away.
I’ll try again.
I asked about the shingles because the water that caused the rot came from somewhere and to attempt repair before the cause is taken care of would be futile.
https://images.finehomebuilding.com/app/uploads/2023/08/22142306/195578_1692728585_fascia-4-700x934.jpg
I’d really have to see it to tell you how it’s all put together but expect there’s no easy method to remove . Sawzall, maybe a multi master to cut out individual boards if for nothing else than to see how it’s put together. I would expect T+G.
What caused it and how bad is the framing we can’t see. The paint looks good but in the above picture, those shingles look old and ragged.
Hi Calvin, Yes, that makes a lot of sense. A roofer said the roof is 20 years old with 30 year shingles. Looks like only a few of the boards are rotten. I suspect the wood rot may have started before the roof was changed 20 years ago. I am debating whether to remove the asphalt shingles, replace the t and g board for almost the entire length of the overhang, then cover with plywood and reshingle, or just try to replace a few boards here and there for the time being.
If that’s the case, I would use a (Fein Multimaster).
https://fein.com/en_us/multimaster-2023/?utm_campaign=2022brand&utm_source=google&utm_medium=search&utm_content=665633703318
A tool that allows surgical smooth cuts rather than a sawzall which is more hack and whack. This might allow you to cut out one board for a look see, rather than attacking a whole bunch of soffit.
What I would do first is remove something and find how bad it is behind what you see. A lot of rot like that started years earlier and when it finally becomes visible there’s a whole lot more gone.
You could also just bash a hole somewhere and look or stick a phone camera up and take a picture.
This is not fun work. I’ve done a boatload of rot repair over my half century in the trade (sounds longer that way). Don’t wear a white shirt and have some bug spray handy.
“[Deleted]”
From your second photo, it would seem a simple task to make a few measurements and verify the construction.
It seems to me that the roof decking is a single layer of boards.
Any attempt to replace might best be put off until replacement of the roofing is planned.
That makes a lot of sense. Thank you.
Hi Calvin, Sounds like a good idea to see what is going on behind one rotten board and attempt a surgical removal if that is the only bad one. Will check out that tool. Much appreciated.
About that tool.
I got the multimaster the day after they cut off the cast on my wrist with,
A Fein Multimaster.
A lot of magic was done with that tool.
If it’s not too many that are rotten, could you skin over the soffit and do a full replacement in 10 years when the roof gets done?
Excellent idea if they can find and repair wherever water entry comes from.
Yes,If they can find where the water is coming from. It'll be alot easier for them to work on and fix.
That is a good option too, especially since we just figured out that the shingles are underneath the cement board siding. I guess when an addition to built, they just cement boarded over the edge of the roofing. Not sure how easy it will be pull the shingles out from under the edge of the cement board.
If you take the rotten boards out and replace with new you need to be sure the rot spores remaining will be destroyed. Otherwise rot will return. Also, how will you re fasten the old shingles to the new boards. They are probably brittle and will break when you try to raise them enough to get a nail under. Better to do the job correctly.
Ok, that is very helpful to know. Will the rot spores affect a wood like cedar?
Yes, you would need to coat the framing with Woodlife. Agree with others that you have to find and remove the source of water. Is there any sidewall flashing?
That's a great idea.Get rid of the rotten boards and can be replace with new you need,
I was hoping to do that, but the roofing is attached to the rotten boards, so we either need to reskin or rebuild entirely, with new shingles, wood etc.
That sure looks like plywood sheathing on your second picture.