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how-to resources for ceramic counter

autrac | Posted in General Discussion on September 27, 2005 02:18am

I’ve seen beautiful ceramic tile counters as well as several made of what appears to be granite or some other stone or marble tile.  I most enjoy this approach when the tiles are large, say 12″ instead of smaller tiles.  One neighbor’s counter has very thin grout lines, looks really sharp.  Is anyone aware of any books or other how-to resource on such a project?  Husband is verrrry handy with carpentry and has installed some fabulous ceramic tile floor in the past, so I think he’s up to it.  Thanks for any suggestions.

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  1. WayneL5 | Sep 27, 2005 04:12am | #1

    Michael Byrne's book Setting Tile is excellent.  He recently came out with Tiling Countertops.  Both are published by Taunton.  You can buy them from this site.

    1. autrac | Sep 27, 2005 04:52am | #2

      Thank you, WayneL5.  I'll look into both.

  2. User avater
    maddog3 | Sep 29, 2005 01:42am | #3

    .....Hi, you might want to look here, it is a quite extensive site about tile

    http://www.johnbridge.com/

    "
    1. autrac | Sep 29, 2005 02:18am | #4

      OOps, I guess John Bridge is not a big fan of tile countertops!  Thanks for the reference, which I'll return to for that other renov project, ceramic tile flooring.

      1. User avater
        maddog3 | Sep 29, 2005 04:40pm | #5

        okey dokey...."

        1. User avater
          maddog3 | Sep 30, 2005 07:03am | #7

          OK , this site makes a product you should consider, it is NOT absorbent, unlike cement board, ( no water,no mold )
          The site has good FAQ, and their live support is very good. http://www.jameshardie.com/whatever you decide to do in your home, Hardi-backer is something to consider, it is much lighter than cement board, and is factory marked for fastening to your plywood (which is handy )
          they have a few examples, but their product is unseen anyway !Another tool you will need is a wetsaw, they are cheap, they avg$80, or you can spend $$$, but they are much easier to use than nippers, or breakers and less aggravating !Another thing to remember, DO NOT grout the corners, use caulk, keep that in mind when choosing your grout colors.like I said, they don't have many ideas, but their product is essential for a good quality installation . it also has a transferable 20 yr warranty"

          1. autrac | Sep 30, 2005 11:30am | #9

            Thanks for the Hardi board idea.  We do have the wet saw.  (I use "we" loosely, also as in "we" will make this countertop.)  "We" own enough tools to run a supply house and have worked with the caulk in the past on a tile floor installed over a cement floor, when advised to use it in certain spots in lieu of grout because of expansion cuts nearby.  I did that bit of caulking myself and found it a bit frustrating to achieve a close color match to the grout, even though our dealer sold us products that were supposed to be matched. 

            When you mentioned caulking the corners, where exactly should I caulk--seam to the backsplash wall, I think, but do you mean as well anywhere the counter makes a right angle turn?

            Also, many tiled counters use a wood edge instead of a tile facing, but my neighbor's stunning countertop is faced with tile as well, and it looks much nicer.  Any thoughts on problems with that approach?

            And finally, I'd be tempted to try the new stainmaster grout on this countertop, but I saw a little article recently by a contractor who used it with poor results.  The epoxy type grouts sound like a lot of fiddling.  Thoughts?

             I have not  yet acquired or looked at the book resource suggested in an earlier post, but I will.  Sorry if I'm asking basics that I'll find covered there, but in any case there's no substitute for advice from those with practical experience. Thanks much for all input.  

             

          2. User avater
            maddog3 | Sep 30, 2005 03:50pm | #10

            ...yes, caulk all of those places, seam to wall, and all "inside " ninety degree turns ! think acrylic, silicone can be difficult to clean-upFacing with tile ...the backing should be the same size or slightly smaller than the tile,
            think about fastening ####piece of ply or hardi to temporarily to the base and support the tiles lower edge as it sets !I have not used Epoxy , I don't like the smell or the clean-up. Use Modified Thin-set and sanded grout, but the grout for those small seams could be non-sandedTry to plan it simply, I know you want "killer "looks, but keep goals within reach , buy extra tile and .....practice .
            No point in experimenting with the finished counter"......one more thought,
            You may like the " LOOK " of tile counter tops, and they can be very attractive, but they are maintenance heavy, and sometimes even fragile , similar to Granite, but the final choce is yours

            Edited 9/30/2005 9:05 am ET by maddog3

          3. autrac | Sep 30, 2005 05:39pm | #11

            Wonderful hints--thanks!

          4. User avater
            maddog3 | Sep 30, 2005 06:13pm | #12

            Good Luck........."

      2. FastEddie | Sep 30, 2005 06:38am | #6

        John Bridge is not a big fan of tile countertops

        Why do you say that? 

        "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

        1. autrac | Sep 30, 2005 11:13am | #8

          As recommended, I went to his site, which is indeed very informative.  He is pretty clear about what he notes as the shortcomings of a tiled countertop, i.e. grout stains, tendancy for the tiles to chip, etc.  Says he would choose a solid surface, instead. 

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