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How to seal back of brick to shakes

sethc | Posted in Construction Techniques on August 20, 2011 03:00am

Hello all,

The front of my house is brick and the left side have shakes.  Where the 2 meet (backside of brick) there is a gap where I can see the 2×4 framing.  In some spots the gap is almost a 1″ but most spots about 1/4″ – 1/2″.  What are my options for sealing that gap since I believe the water is going in the gap and into the basement? 

 

I believe the ideal and most expensive option is to remove the shakes along that edge and put some flashing to cover the gap (over the brick) and reattach the shakes.  I’m concerned this will open a can of worms since the siding is 50+ years old.  What about a slightly less expensive?  Expandable foam seems possible but then I have this great yellow edge.  What about stuffing the gap with foam backer rod then multiple passes of silicon?  I guess repointing the bricks would be necessary as well.

I included a few pictures.

Thanks,

Seth 

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  1. calvin | Aug 20, 2011 05:54pm | #1

    Seth

    I don't know what you could do to properly flash the backside-I'm sure there might have been (be) and way, just would need to pull some shingles and have a look.

    However, if it was me, I would plan on using a 1x4 or whatever would look good, as a vertical end to your shingles.  This could be fit to the brick (scribed to fit, then small bead of caulk (NOT SILICONE)  ).   You'll cut back the shingles in a straight vertical line to allow it to be applied between the shingles and brick.

    or

    Run it square edged and point the brick to give it some  closure at the back side of the run of brick, then caulk that smaller gap up to the new trim board.

    I'd use Urethane caulk-  Dymonic from Tremco-some colors and can be painted (will also let stain sit on top of it (bonded).  This stuff sticks to both your brick and wood (and metal) very well, has excellent movement capabilities, can be built up in thickness, and is a good sealant that lasts.

    Silicone just doesn't stretch for squat and usually rejects paint-for sure, stain.

    1. seeyou | Aug 21, 2011 07:35am | #2

      I'd pull the shakes and install a "z" flashing to the framing/sheathing that laps out onto the face of the brick and re-install the shakes.

      1. DaveRicheson | Aug 23, 2011 12:59am | #4

        Combination

        I would use a combination of yours and Calvins' solutions.

        Cut back the shingles for a 1x4x4/4  trim board. Add the Z-flashing behind the trim board and over the brick ends, then caulk  both the trim to flashing joint and the brick to flashing with Tremco caulk.

        Make me wonder if there is any felt paper behind the shingles or the brick, so fixing that corner may not fix the water intrusion issue.

  2. DanH | Aug 21, 2011 08:26am | #3

    If this has been like this for 50 years and hasn't caused significant problems you probably don't need a "bullet-proof" fix, you just don't want to make it worse.

    Simplest would probably be to point the "back" of the brick as well as you can (try to narrow the big gaps), then backer rod and exterior (latex or butyl) caulk.

    The other option would be to snap a vertical line, make a clean cut through the shakes, point the back of the brick (should be possible to get it fairly smooth/straight with the shakes cut back), and fit in a piece of wood (or plastic) trim, caulking on both sides.  (You could slide a strip of flashing behind the edge of the shakes before installing the trim, but I'm not sure it would add much.)

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