How to shim between brick and steel?
I have installed a steel header (1/4 inch thick, 3 x 5 inch angle iron, gussett plates each end) directly under the brick veneer on my house, at the top of a new opening for a basement egress window. The opening was made by saw cutting the existing 8 inch concrete walls. I got the steel as tight up against the brick as I could, but the brick is not perfectly flat along the entire length…
I want to add shims under some of the bricks, but I don’t know what will be “to code”. I am a homeowner who pulled a permit, not a professional. My idea is to use Simpson strong tie 1×5 inch steel plates, secured with PL polyurethane construction adhesive. Is this a correct approach? Comments and suggestions please. Thank You!
P.S. Thank you bobl and piffin for your helpful answers on my question about fasteners into ACQ lumber
Replies
I'm not familiar with the Simpson plates, but most steel distributors and metal fabricators have varying thicknesses of steel plate available. They usually have a bunch of cutoffs laying around they'd be glad to sell you cheaply. The adhesive is probably not necessary, but won't hurt. Drive the shims in snug.
Hey Mister Sushi, you forgot to cook my fish.
"Am I dead or alive? What's this? Linoleum? I must be in hell." -The Salton Sea
Ditto green's idea on the shim plates... go to the steel guy with your exact thicknesses and sizes and he'll cut you some scraps.
Or, if there's enough room (maybe 1/4" or more) get some structural non-shrinking grout and pack the joints with it. You should be able to find a sack of non-shrinking grout at a decent lumberyard or building material place. It's basically a sand-cement mix--read the instructions for the exact amount of water to use. Pack it into your joints as tightly as possible.
Benny, the 1x5 plates don't sound like a good idea because of the narrow 1'' width. A stack of them might tend to roll or slip out. Also, the 1'' bearing surface is too small for a heavy load.
Use wider sizes if possible.
Steel shims are a good choice. The simpson plates are a relatively expesive choice but if you only need a few, it probably beats running around town looking for less expensive steel shims.
I've used simpson wall plates (3'' x 5'') for shims before. I don't glue them though.
blue
since it'll be inspected .. don't forget, if your joists are at right angles to the new opening you need to double the rim joist over the new window opening, and use j-hangers to attach them to the header ..
Benny. Skip the metal shim idea, use non-shrinking grout.
There are products specifically intended for supporting masonry on steel or steel on masonry, They can carry loads far exeeding your requirements.
Some suppliers don't refer to the product as non-shrinking grout. When I found it the last time, the supplier called it impact cement, and was sold to support and level heavy machinery mounted on concrete.
The set up time is very quick, (10 to 15 min) so mix in small amounts. Push the grout into the gaps you would like to fill with a pointed trowel or even a shingle for that matter. Jamb in as much as you can, wipe up the overspill. Leave a gap here and there for rainwater to escape.
Here is an example: http://www.unisorb.com/products/grout/v1/v1.htm