Replies

1. 
   Justus | Aug 20, 2003 08:46pm | #1

   you can, but it's much easier to remove the base and reposition it.

   It sounds like you want to remove the bottom of all the base correct? Not just around the doors?

   I've taken my biscut jointer and run it along small sections of base (mostly door openings) to allow for flooring. But it wouls be a long day and probably a new jointer if you wanted to do it all. Maybe someone elas has a better way.

   Justus Koshiol

   Running Pug Construction

2. 
   calvin | Aug 20, 2003 08:48pm | #2

   This situation was made for the Fein Multimaster.  If you're not familiar with it check out the Fein site  http://www.feinus.com/multimaster/newimages/newmultimaster.htm

   The tool with the blade shown (Blade about 35.00) is easy to cut a straight line with, not damaging the wall or flooring.  The tool oscillates back and forth slightly (variable sp) and is easy to control.  Have cut trim for your reason many times, some with success and some not, until I got this tool.  If you do this work regularly the multimaster will not be a waste of money.  The blade in the kit (half moon) will work but is not as stiff as the one shown on the floor job.  And with it's round cutting surface, you'll need to overcut to get it all.  That half round blade is good for small under cut jobs.

   You back cut a bit and it'll look great.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

   
1. 
   briankeith | Aug 20, 2003 09:18pm | #3

   I was actually thinking "Very Sharp Chisel".

   and then the thought of using a dremel tool entered my mind.

   But Calvin, I like that Multimaster. Hadn't ever seen one b4.

   Hope there is room in my tool box for one.

   Heck, I may have to buy a bigger toolbox.

   It's just WIN-WIN!!!!!!!! I love this place.View Image

1. 
   IanDG | Aug 20, 2003 10:21pm | #4

   To undercut baseboard/casings for parquet I used a 4" saw blade in a small grinder.

   IanDG

1. 
   Mattohio | Aug 20, 2003 10:36pm | #5

   I think that what is needs to be cut is the end of the base, to allow for a wider casing. I do this all the time with by first scoring with a utility knife and then sawing with a flush cut type japanese saw. It is often helpflul to place a piece of cardboard or a couple layers of tape on the floor to keep the saw from damaging it if you slip. Hope this helps.

   matt

2. 
   bedub | Aug 21, 2003 03:26am | #12

   Thanks, Calvin, for such a complete answer - complete with Website reference and pics of what the Fein MM can do.  From the other responses I received, it sounds like your suggestion gets a resounding endorsement.  Thanks for sharing your know-how!  Bedub

1. 
   calvin | Aug 21, 2003 04:17pm | #18

   hey bedub, you're welcome.

   even a blind acorn gets a squirrel once in a while.

   I know, but the way I wrote it is even more rare.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

3. 
   coonass | Aug 20, 2003 11:08pm | #6

   bedub,

   If you don't have calvin's money a jap pull saw works great like Matt said. Pry the base out a little and slip something thin like laminate back there to protect wall.

   KK

1. 
   calvin | Aug 21, 2003 12:05am | #8

   Come on ken, I can afford it and I don't have a side job at the comedy club.

   It has several uses, some of which a pull saw or a small (US) back saw can't do.  Toothing out hardwood flooring is one that ditch tipped me to.  You can make it look like you were never there.  I ordered up a diamond blade for it for an upcoming window job where the homo's want to maintain the old plaster returns, along with a bit of tile (mudset and no matching available) that needs a clean finish cut.  Hope the bucks for that were well spent.  The plan is to cut without throwing more than a dropcloth protecting dust, a neat line in the plaster/tile, remove and slid the window back into and against the return.  Hopefully no more than an L-bead to tidy up the opening. 

   If the guy only has a couple doors to do and the base isn't some big or exotic thing, a utility knife, a sawzall, a back saw or even a jig saw with the blade cut to the length so no more than the base thickness is cut will all work.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   coonass | Aug 21, 2003 12:18am | #9

   Ok, I'll move it closer to the top of the list. If I quit buying tools I could quit working. Sure did want a plasma cutter instead.

   KK

1. 
   calvin | Aug 21, 2003 12:46am | #10

   I wouldn't know what to do with a plasma cutter.  Hell, can't even stomach giving blood.  Oh well.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

2. 
   Shep | Aug 21, 2003 02:04am | #11

         ditto the Fein MM. I bought it  for shop use, but it now spends more time in my van. Its so handy for so many things that I always want it around . When I pull it out, new guys ask what it is. Once they see what it can do, they usually want one. Maybe I should start charging Fein a sales commission.

1. 
   calvin | Aug 21, 2003 03:46am | #13

   We went that route, hoping for a couple of shirts.  To no avail.  Maybe if you get ambitious you could copy this thread and send it off to them.

   Remember, I'll take an XL.

   thanks.

   Get Ditch an XL too.

   thanks.

   Heck, get as many as you can, we'll divvy them up.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

2. 
   luvmuskoka | Aug 21, 2003 03:17pm | #17

   The national sales manager of AEI actually called me to get feedback on the tool. Fein is a Pgh. based co., (AEI is the parent company) and I was one of the first in the country to buy, use and report back on the MM.

   A number of new attachments are being introduced, namely profile pads for sanding various contours, and a carbide blade which will cut thru hardware when plunge cutting wood.

   Festo is competing with AEI/Fein, as far as I can tell no one else in the tool biz has come up with anything as versatile as the MM.

   ......and I didn't even get a t-shirt....

   Ditch

3. 
   Shep | Aug 22, 2003 12:09am | #19

   calvin-- the only shirt I've ever been able to get from a tool maker (for free ) is a Stabila level one, and only because I spent about $200 at one time. However, if anything turns up, you'll be the first to know. I wonder how many more MM Fein could sell if everyone reading this thread got a shirt<G>

4. 
   calvin | Aug 22, 2003 12:42am | #20

   My power tool supplier has kept me in Bosch, Hitachi, delta and PC wear.  Thus far, no Fein.  One of these days. 

   I'm a walking billboard, as long as your name here isn't bogus.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

5. 
   Shep | Aug 22, 2003 04:25am | #21

   Calvin--  My lumber used to give out tee shirts every year to good customers They stopped about 8 or 10 years ago. I still have several of them, but they're getting so worn that the lumber yard is probably hoping I don't wear them anymore.

6. 
   calvin | Aug 22, 2003 04:47am | #22

   I hate when they get torn and tattered.  You'd think they'd dig down in the back and find a replacement.  Their good name and all.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

4. 
   NickNukeEm | Aug 21, 2003 12:05am | #7

   Ditto Calvin on the Feim MM.  I use it for more than I thought possible.  For baseboard, scribe a line where you want the cut, then place a block of wood against the line so the blade is cutting the waste side of the line.  Use the expensive blade as Calvin recommends.  It cuts like nobody's business.  I used it on Saturday to cut through cedar side shingles to let in a cedar mounting block for a railing.  It cut so cleanly, the block could almost pass for original to the house (if it wasn't for the color mismatch.)

   We've had posts before that turned into Fein commercials, but this is one tool I use and every job (that and my Makita impact driver, but that's another post.)

   Edit, push the blade against the block while cutting a finer cut.

   I never met a tool I didn't like!

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/20/2003 5:09:24 PM ET by NickNuke'em

5. 
   wrick2003 | Aug 21, 2003 05:49am | #14

        You can: 

        1) score a straight cut line with a speed square and a utility knife, use a "Gentlemen's Saw" ( a dovetail saw with a fine blade) and a little soap or skiwax to make the saw cut easier. Sawing with your elbow riding the wall takes a little getting used to, but creates a perfect cut.  

        2) Score a straight line and plunge a jigsaw from the top and saw downwards. This method gakks some of the plaster, but if painted, that's no problem. If it a multipiece baseboard, the cap may require an extra nail to hold it in place, so it doesn't come flying off.  

        3) The biscuit jointer works also, but the potential kickback is scary.

        4) If it is a soft wood, you can also just score it and chisel layer after layer through the depth of the knife score. 

                             good luck     rg

6. 
   Turtleneck | Aug 21, 2003 06:19am | #15

   Ditto for me on the Dovetail saw. I use a scrap of ply for a straight edge to cut back base.

   Go easy and you won't scratch up the wall or floor.

   I'd probably be finished and be trimming out the door before those other guys got that fancy contraption plugged in!

    Turtleneck

   the only miracles I've ever produced are waiting for me at home

1. 
   JeffBuck | Aug 21, 2003 07:03am | #16

   I plunge cut thru the face with a sawzaw....

   kinda takes a bit of practice....

   after testing all the possible positions.....I've found standing to work best for me.

   I use a short metal blade.

   Mark the cut line.....stand with my right hip against the wall....cut to the right...

   hold the sawzaw with both hands.....and have it off the wood....but body of tool held tight against the wall.....then tilt it in..slowly.

   make sure ya don't hit the floor with the tip.....that'll ruin everything.

   I've also utility knife cut the base loose at the top.....and with putty knives and small prybars pulled it away from the wall where I need to cut....in this case that'd be fairly simple .....then with it held away from the wall with a handfull o' shims....

   either jig saw or rotozip down......

   JeffBuck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

    Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite                  

7. 
   Davo304 | Aug 22, 2003 06:58am | #23

   I never saw or heard of the Fein MM until now. It sure does seem like a very capable tool.

   In the past when I ran into the baseboard trimming situation that you described, I would:

                 1. Hold a combination square or speed square in place and mark the cutline using my razor knife. I would score it several times to give me a fairly deep line.

                2. Using my 4-1/2 inch angle grinder with a micro thin cutting blade, I would finish cutting through the baseboard "free-hand"; following the razor knife scoring. I would very lightly pass the grinder into the kerf several times, instead of just plunging in deeply. The light passes gave me better control of the tool.

               3. If needed, I would use a sharp chisel, and/or my razor knife to finish up the cut.

   I have tried the roto zip tool, but never liked how it reacted. For me, the Roto Zip was too hard to control, and I broke too many blades. For me, the grinder was a lot easier.  I have also used a sharp backsaw, but I still prefer the grinder.

   BUT, perhaps I'll give the Fein MM a try. It does sound really good for that type of job.

   Davo